Bolt cam removal

R

RCO

Inactive
I got a free FIE 1851, and yes I know the story behind this gun. My problem is getting the bolt to work properly. When trying to get in half cock the bolt arm drops off the cam just before I here the click for the trigger.If I'm gentle or loosen the spring it will work some times.

I bought a Pietta bolt but the arms are shorter then the arms on my bolt. It looks to me like the cam might be worn and the angled face is full of tool marks. I'm not sure a replacement hammer will fit the FIE revolver, since the replacement bolt did not. I would like to replace the cam.

Dixie has the replacement cam, but has anyone taken a cam out of a hammer? The cam has to be pressed in the hammer.
 
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Ahh . . . I see your problem!!! The cam should be on the hammer, not the trigger!!! :)

Just messing with ya !!

Probably all that's needed is to spread the left arm (the one that rides the cam) outward slightly. With a heavy bolt spring, it's easy for the bolt to slide off the side of the cam (instead of "falling" off the front as it should). The bolt only needs 2-3 lbs of pressure. You can put a washer under the combination spring to give you a better starting point (that was a factory fix in the custom shop for you "sticklers" out there!).

The cams today aren't removable but can be ground down , a hole drilled and a cam fashioned to fit. Drill stock is a good source.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
Thanks Mike,

I should proof read.:rolleyes: I taught machine shop in my younger days and my kids would have got an F for the machining done on the FIE.

Before I posted I already bent the bolt arm. I broke the trigger/bolt spring trying to bend it backwards to lighten it. I have a Wolf spring in the mail.

I saw the cam for sale on Dixie that's why I asked about removing it. If the weaker spring doesn't work I'll follow your instructions for the cam.

I hate to see things not work. I've got the hand timing correct, no play in the arbor, and the cylinder clearance at .008.

Rob
 
"parts is parts" I needed a bolt for an old Pietta, ordered one each , the Pietta was to short . used the Uberti.
Listen to Mike ,he does this every day.
 
OK, got the wolf (wire type] spring in and it is enough weaker that the bolt is working fine.

One last thing, Full cock is hard to engage. It takes a yank.Where on the hand do I need to file? Top, front?
 
The very top. Maintain the angle. Keep in mind that lockup and full cock happen simultaneously. Its a 3 clicker not a 4 (or more) clicker!!

Curious, the spring tension allowing correct bolt function sounds like the arm is sliding off the side of the bolt . . . . hmmmm . . . . (hate wires ).. Watch it closely and see what's going on. It should fall off the front of the cam. 3 lbs is the most it needs, any more and you're wearing parts out.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks
Follow me on Instagram @goonsgunworks
 
I would remove just a tad of material from the bottom of the leg of the bolt that contacts the cam. By creating space, it will take more time for the cam to engage the bolt.
 
Hey Gary,
I think this time the hand is too long. He's describing cyl lockup before reaching full cock. I think your scenario would be for bolt reset. A late bolt reset can/will leave the hammer down on a live cap (because the hand has selected the next ratchet but the cylinder can't be unlocked). The need for the space you indicate would be the correct solution. For readers that may not know though, too much space between the cam and bolt arm (hammer at rest) may have the hand trying to rotate a still locked cylinder (not enough bolt movement before the hand starts cyl carry up).

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
Ha!! To clarify my post, an un-capped nipple may allow enough hammer movement forward to allow a bolt reset but a capped nipple may NOT allow reset which will lead to a locked/unsafe condition.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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