ammo.crafter
New member
Any one have ideas regarding puttin a finish on a shotgun barrel? This is a working gun and by no means, a show piece.
Looking for finishing suggestions.
TNX
Looking for finishing suggestions.
TNX
bluing???
- Thread starter ammo.crafter
- Start date
Side/side, O/U, or pump/auto/single shot?
For the latter, just take it down to your local gunsmith and have him run it through his hot tanks. It will be relatively inexpensive and much more satisfactory than cold blue, which is really just for touch up work.
For a S/S or O/U, the barrels are soldered together, so you cannot hot blue them. They have to be stripped, polished, degreased, and then blued with a product like Brownell's Dicropan or Oxphoblue. Best left to those who know how to do it.
For the latter, just take it down to your local gunsmith and have him run it through his hot tanks. It will be relatively inexpensive and much more satisfactory than cold blue, which is really just for touch up work.
For a S/S or O/U, the barrels are soldered together, so you cannot hot blue them. They have to be stripped, polished, degreased, and then blued with a product like Brownell's Dicropan or Oxphoblue. Best left to those who know how to do it.
ammo.crafter
New member
It's a single barrel break top in .410 that I got at a garage sale for what I had in my pocket at the time.
While there is no doubt that a hot blue job is several orders of magnitude more durable, it is still a controlled oxidation surface treatment. Aside from that, there is an alternative to modern hot bluing which is more ancient and just as durable, and can be done on your kitchen stovetop. It's called rust blue, or belgian blue, or hot-water blue.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Wiley has the most logical advise. Spray paint it. If it wears, spray it again.
Bill
Bill
auburnboattail
New member
410
Actually is a prime gun to practice general Smith techniques.
Hot blueing is easy at home get the book Firearm Blueing Techniques by R.W. Ainger. Definitive step by step process with solutions defined.
Also can do some work on wood, strip restain, possable carving.
Maybe camo on stock.Modify for young shooter or lady.
Perhaps you can make a special purpose weapon, depending on the make there may be rifle barrels available. (H&R, NEF and some Iver johnson)
Fixed up makes a great plinker or gift to a youngster.
Good gun to practice adding sling swivels, scope mounts or sights,Recoil pads.
Disassembly manual is probably availiable on line or for a nominal fee.
Have some fun with it and if you research techniques well you will learn a ton and add a brand new dimension to your firearms experience.
Actually is a prime gun to practice general Smith techniques.
Hot blueing is easy at home get the book Firearm Blueing Techniques by R.W. Ainger. Definitive step by step process with solutions defined.
Also can do some work on wood, strip restain, possable carving.
Maybe camo on stock.Modify for young shooter or lady.
Perhaps you can make a special purpose weapon, depending on the make there may be rifle barrels available. (H&R, NEF and some Iver johnson)
Fixed up makes a great plinker or gift to a youngster.
Good gun to practice adding sling swivels, scope mounts or sights,Recoil pads.
Disassembly manual is probably availiable on line or for a nominal fee.
Have some fun with it and if you research techniques well you will learn a ton and add a brand new dimension to your firearms experience.
I've used cold blue for "clean up" and even did an entire sporterized Mauser with it. They are all holding up fine after many years of use. I've even been asked (whoc did it?)/complimented on the bluing job on the Mauser. Key to either hot OR cold blue is surface preparation. Ned to be clean and rust-free.
A good alternative to hot bluing a gun that's just not worth the expense of a hot-blue job.
A good alternative to hot bluing a gun that's just not worth the expense of a hot-blue job.
alexander hamilton
New member
im interested in the rust bluing idea. does anyone have much experience with that?
Jim Burton
New member
Rust bluing will take a little time, but will produce a very durable finish. I use Pilkington's Classic Rust Bluing from Brownells, here is the link http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...5&title=PILKINGTON+CLASSIC+AMERICAN+RUST+BLUE
Basically the steps are as follows.
1. Polish the parts (I hand sand with a block to keep the flat places flat, starting with 180 grit and progressing to 400 grit. What grit you start with depends on the condition of the gun. It is not necessary to go beyond 400 grit.)
2. Degrease the parts completely, any grease, oil or fingerprints will show.
3. Apply the bluing with a cotton ball (after degreasing, the parts must be handled with rubber gloves to keep them free from skin oil)
4. let the parts rust for about three hours. ( on the first coat, you reapply the bluing after about an hour).
5. boil the parts in plain water (distilled is best) for about 10-20 minutes. This turns the red rust to black rust.
6. remove the parts, dry them with air. steel wool the parts with 0000 steel wool (steel wool must be degreased)
7. reapply the bluing (just enough to barely dampen the surface, it should dry immediately)
8. wait 3 hrs, boil, steel wool.
9. repeat for a total of 4 to 10 times depending on how it looks.
10. let it sit for 24 hrs before oiling.
The bluing comes with instructions which should be followed exactly. After the first coat, it will not appear to rust much, at that point you are deepening and evening the finish.
I have done about 6 guns with rust bluing, and I seem to do a better job with each one. You may want to try just a piece of steel first to get the hang of iit. I usually would do one round of bluing a night due to time constraints, and after I used the steel wool, I would let it sit until the next night.
Jim
Basically the steps are as follows.
1. Polish the parts (I hand sand with a block to keep the flat places flat, starting with 180 grit and progressing to 400 grit. What grit you start with depends on the condition of the gun. It is not necessary to go beyond 400 grit.)
2. Degrease the parts completely, any grease, oil or fingerprints will show.
3. Apply the bluing with a cotton ball (after degreasing, the parts must be handled with rubber gloves to keep them free from skin oil)
4. let the parts rust for about three hours. ( on the first coat, you reapply the bluing after about an hour).
5. boil the parts in plain water (distilled is best) for about 10-20 minutes. This turns the red rust to black rust.
6. remove the parts, dry them with air. steel wool the parts with 0000 steel wool (steel wool must be degreased)
7. reapply the bluing (just enough to barely dampen the surface, it should dry immediately)
8. wait 3 hrs, boil, steel wool.
9. repeat for a total of 4 to 10 times depending on how it looks.
10. let it sit for 24 hrs before oiling.
The bluing comes with instructions which should be followed exactly. After the first coat, it will not appear to rust much, at that point you are deepening and evening the finish.
I have done about 6 guns with rust bluing, and I seem to do a better job with each one. You may want to try just a piece of steel first to get the hang of iit. I usually would do one round of bluing a night due to time constraints, and after I used the steel wool, I would let it sit until the next night.
Jim
ammo.crafter
New member
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice.