Bluing neutralizer

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PinnedAndRecessed

Moderator
I have a couple guns I need to touch up with cold blue. I'm looking for bluing neutralizer but don't want to buy 55 freaking gallons for three guns!!

Anyway, does anybody know of a source for just a couple ounces? Recommendations?

Also, I need a mainspring for a Model 66-1 with 2 1/2 inch barrel Smith. The previous owner apparantly installed an aftermarket mainspring in order to lighten the trigger pull which, for a SD gun, baffles me.

Wolff sells them as strong as stock. I'm looking for one that is heavier than stock. Suggestions?
 
For cold blue the recommended neutralizer is plain water followed by a coat of lube.

Neutralizers are only used for commercial hot salts bluing setups to stop the aggressive chemical reaction of the hot salts chemicals.
Colt blues don't need these specialty neutralizers.

I got you in the other forum about the S&W springs.
To recap, you not only don't need extra strong springs, they are NOT recommended.

I'd buy genuine S&W factory springs.
These are the best there are, and have MORE than enough power to pop ANY primer.
 
Listen to Defariswheel

One other thing that I have used with success is 409. It cleans it up and neutralizes it very well. Rinse it off and then oil it and leave it over night.
 
Countryboy has it right. Cold blues have acids, and 409, Fantastik, and Greased Lightning all are highly alkaline degreasing cleaners (will actually etch aluminum) and good wetting agents, so they penetrate and neutralize the acids that cause after-rust. I usually rinse these off in water, wipe the part dry and imediately hit it with a water displacing oil just to be sure the water is gone at the molecular level. If WD-40 is the only water displacer you can get, I would take it off afterward with mineral spirits before applying a good grade of gun oil for the final finsih. WD-40 tends to dry into a dust magnet, and it isn't an adequate lubricant for a gun.

Nick
 
S&W's mainsprings and rebound (trigger return) springs haven't changed much over the years.

You can buy springs from S&W, Brownell's, and Gun Parts Corporation....your choice.

Here's Gun Parts page on the Model 66. they also have pages for the 66-3 and -4.
http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=1980z66

Here's Brownell's page:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sc...608&m=15&mn=Smith+&+Wesson®&model=K-Frame+66+
The also have pages for the 66-3, -4 and -5

All mainsprings and rebound springs are the same stock number.
 
Thanx, Dfaris, that's great. That's what I need.

While I've got you on the line, I wonder if you could answer another question for me.

I've got a new (less than 300 rounds) Combat Commander. The slide has been locking open before the magazine is empty.

I sent it back to Colt. (For that and because the front sight shot loose.) They sent it back and said it was fixed.

Today I was at the range and the slide locked open prematurely (i.e., with rounds still in the magazine) at round 4 and again at round 54.

It's been suggested that I remove some metal off the slide stop. I assume they mean the part of the slide stop that actually contacts the magazine follower.

What do you think of this advice? If I remove some metal, how much should I remove? Just enough to remove the bluing? A little more?

Thanx.
 
Make sure it is not your thumb pushing up the SS. If there is bullet contact with the SS then there should be a litttle copper at the point of contact.
 
I recommend finding out the actual cause before modifying anything.

Gunsmiths make a lot of their profit repairing things that didn't NEED repairing to start with, because someone altered a part that didn't need alterations.
I once had a gun in for ejection problems, in which the owner had ground away much of the feed ramp on the frame, to "fix" it.

The "usual" causes of premature slide locking are:
Ammo related. Try different ammo. This is caused by bullets with shapes that contact the stop under recoil.

Magazine related. Try different magazines.

Shooter induced. As above, make sure you're not inadvertently pressing the slide stop up under recoil.

A weak or defective slide stop spring and plunger assembly, or a defective/constricted plunger tube.

If the slide stop needs alteration, the FIRST alteration that should be done is to have a gunsmith WHO'S DONE IT BEFORE, and KNOWS exactly how to do it, is to cut a tiny dimple in the rear face of the stop where the slide stop plunger contacts it when it's in the DOWN position.

This tiny dimple will help hold the stop down, but if done RIGHT, will still allow the magazine to activate the stop and lock the slide back.
Done wrong, the stop will stay down, but the magazine won't be able to lock the slide back.

My first option would be to try different ammo and magazines, and make SURE you aren't inducing slide lock under recoil.

Second, try replacing the spring and plunger assembly, lube it, and make sure the plunger tube isn't constricting the plunger and spring.

Third, send the gun back to Colt, and have a talk with them about the problem.

Last, find a GOOD 1911 pistolsmith, (NOT the local "do it all" guy) and have him check things out and possibly put in a dimple.
 
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