Charlie,
There are stainless steel cold blacks out there. They turn out more charcoal gray than black, in my experience. You do have to blast the surface first. Stainless steels form a chromium oxide layer at their surfaces that help their rust resistance, but also make them semi-resistant to the acids in the cold blacking agents. If you don't remove this oxide by blasting, you get a splotchy and poorly adhered result. I've also used a boiling water pre-heat to help, but that is only useful with some alloys and makes others worse, so you'll want to test the process inside the slide or some other inconspicuous place.
One agent I've used is Insta-Blak SS-370, made by EPI, Inc. (262-786-9330). There are others. I’ve not found any entirely satisfactory. The appearance of either black chrome or black nickel plating is superior for glare (soot black, in both cases), but you have to find and electroplater to do the work who is good at masking to keep the result from looking shabby.
Another possibility is a painted finish. I've used the Brownells Teflon/Moly gun finish to restore the finish on M1 Garand gas cylinders, which are machined stainless castings. It works quite well for that, but it isn't a true matte black. Brownells Baking Lacquer is available in black. I haven't ever tried this product line myself, but it is less expensive than the Teflon/Moly and may be good for your purposes. Especially since it would be relatively easy to renew the finish if it gets scratched and to remove it (paint stripper) if you don't like it in the end?
Good luck, and let us know what you actually do in the end and how it turns out?
Nick