Blueing a Gun

Russ5924

New member
Been thinking about blueing a few old guns?What would be required to blue a gun, not the junk you get at the store a good hot chemical blueing??????? Or something that would do a good job.
 
Good polishing set up is #1. You must have good buffer wheels and polishing compound. However, if you're into dull finishes, then a beadblaster is needed.
You have to have space free from clutter in case something slips and hits floor. Good to have rubber matts or wood floor so no damage is caused.

Second, you will need several bluing tanks. Tanks may be heated by gas pipes salvaged from an old water heater. Tanks should be deep enough to immerse entire action. You'll need a tank for a degreasing solution, bluing solution and a neutralizer. Tanks should be mounted on a concrete floor (acids can destroy your wood floor). Thermometers a must to regulate the heat of the bluing tanks.

You also need good water that is mineral free. Minerals can cause streaks so try to get rainwater or distilled water.
 
Brownell's sells complete package deals with everything you need to do the actual bluing, polising equipment extra.
The complete professional gunsmith outfit $1300
The beginner's simplified outfit $550
The Dicropan rust blue outfit $222

No doubt you could read the list of equipment and supplies and build your own for lots less, paying them only for the chemicals. Or you could formulate your own, there are a lot of old mixes on record. Getting the ingredients by their old names might be a good trick, though, and some of them are toxic. Roy Dunlap listed several in his book, Gunsmithing, one based on drain cleaner and fertilizer... which I have NOT tried.
 
Rust bluing (slow or hot water) can be accomplished with minimal materials and aluminum oxide paper for polishing. You don't use finer than 400 grit because the bluing process involves constant repolishing with steel wool.


The resulting blue is harder than salt blues and just as lusterous, but requires more effort. Total cost of hot water bluing is about $60, since all you need is the oxide paper, the chemical, a pot big enough for the piece(s), steel wool, a stainless steel brush, gloves and degreaser.

The slow process requires a little less elbow grease, but more time (a week or more) and a humidity cabinet. The hot water process takes few hours.


This is how bluing was first done. Salt bluing is a much more recent process that isn't as durable but less labor intensive. Brownells can set you up with what you need in two different formulas. I'm very pleased with my results.
 
There was a gunsmith here who turned out some gorgeous blue jobs but wondered why his income was so low. Turned out, all he knew how to do, all he knew there was, was rust blue. Somebody smartened him up and he got a set of tanks for hot blue. He still does a nice job, but it isn't like when he was ignorant and slow.
 
Which is why it's such a great choice for a hobby bluer. It is cheaper, but nicer. The only sacrifice is time, and that's what hobbies are all about.
 
Handy is right on. That is what Hobbies are all about. Let me just add that I have blued guns, I have plated guns. I have Parkerized guns, and I view this kind of activity as a "Black Art." That is why I have others do it for me now. If you start your bluiing tanks in a place where you have nails, the fumes will eat them alive and your shop will fall apart. No thanks. I will pass on that kind of stinky stuff. It is also illegal in most residential neighborhoods.
 
Back
Top