I have some holsters coming to me in the coming weeks and thought I saw some info on this site or another that talked about how to prep a new holster so that it won't wear the finish on a blued gun. I have already read about using gun wax to preserve the gun's finish, but wondered if someone could help me out with the holster. Do you spray it down inside with gun oil, does that take off the gun wax , etc? Thanks.
Blue finish and new leather
- Thread starter dallascj
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
As above any holster will wear the finish and there's absolutely nothing that can be done to stop or even limit it.
DO NOT put any oils or other leather treatments on the holster.
All these will do is soften the leather and cause it to stretch out of shape.
This will allow the gun to move around in the holster and that will wear the bluing even worse and over a wider area.
The only "treatment" for a good holster most holster makers will recommend is a coat of a good wax.
If you use a holster the finish will wear. If you don't want the finish worn, never put the gun in a holster, and don't even handle it much.
DO NOT put any oils or other leather treatments on the holster.
All these will do is soften the leather and cause it to stretch out of shape.
This will allow the gun to move around in the holster and that will wear the bluing even worse and over a wider area.
The only "treatment" for a good holster most holster makers will recommend is a coat of a good wax.
If you use a holster the finish will wear. If you don't want the finish worn, never put the gun in a holster, and don't even handle it much.
Kreyzhorse
New member
Like the gents above mentioned, if you put any gun in a holster enough times, it will wear. It won't wear over a few nights but it will wear.
Enjoy your gun, enjoy your new holsters and take good care of each. Wear and tear will happen so don't sweat it.
Do not oil your holster or put any other solvents on it.
Enjoy your gun, enjoy your new holsters and take good care of each. Wear and tear will happen so don't sweat it.
Do not oil your holster or put any other solvents on it.
Sadly the above posts are true. Bluing is about the worst finish available for a working gun. It's relatively soft. It's very thin. Any type of holster material will rub it off. It is however my favorite finish. It is a beautiful finish, just not very practical in the real world. I have had several competition guns that saw heavy use reblued multiple times and watched it wear away. It can be degreased and touched up with cold blue. The most durable finishes I have personally used are hard chrome and parkerizing.
Thanks for the responses, gents. The 2 revolvers that are blued are Taurus' models, so I don't think that it is a true classic blued finish, but more like a type of coating. I saw on some site, but I cannot relocate it, that a guy was talking about using silicone spray, a washrag, and some sandpaper to prep the holster. He claimed having had a blued gun in the holster for over 20 years and it showed no appreciable wear. For the record, I am not sweating this, but I am pretty meticulous with my stuff and just don't want to tear it up.
Most shooters consider "honest" holster wear a sign of character. Collectors, not so much.
Guns normally wear less in a leather holster than a Kydex holster. A snug fitting leather holster will actually wear less than one that is a bit loose. If it is loose, the gun will actually move about inside the holster and rub as you carry it. A good fitting holster won't allow this. Most of the holster wear will simply come from holstering and unholstering your weapon.
Guns normally wear less in a leather holster than a Kydex holster. A snug fitting leather holster will actually wear less than one that is a bit loose. If it is loose, the gun will actually move about inside the holster and rub as you carry it. A good fitting holster won't allow this. Most of the holster wear will simply come from holstering and unholstering your weapon.
I dont know about Bluing being the worst finish available. But ANY firearm in ANY finish will eventually have some holster wear. It's just more pronounced in blue firearms.
If you carry in a holster of any kind you will eventually have some holster wear. Leather is probably the material most associated with wear. NO firearm IMO should be stored in any holster for long periods of time.
The effect of holster wear is actually a process of polishing. It tends to be more pronounced at points where the gun rubs against the holster while drawing, and reholstering.
Holster wear is most common with service revolvers, and pistols worn by police, and security where the gun's are frequently drawn and re-holstered. My own S&W 4" HB Model 10 after 25 years of service in all kinds of weather is still about 80%.
IMO Holster wear add's character to a firearm. As long as it's kept clean and regularly wiped down It's to not worry.
Glenn Dee
If you carry in a holster of any kind you will eventually have some holster wear. Leather is probably the material most associated with wear. NO firearm IMO should be stored in any holster for long periods of time.
The effect of holster wear is actually a process of polishing. It tends to be more pronounced at points where the gun rubs against the holster while drawing, and reholstering.
Holster wear is most common with service revolvers, and pistols worn by police, and security where the gun's are frequently drawn and re-holstered. My own S&W 4" HB Model 10 after 25 years of service in all kinds of weather is still about 80%.
IMO Holster wear add's character to a firearm. As long as it's kept clean and regularly wiped down It's to not worry.
Glenn Dee
Its been my experience that leather is harder on the guns finish, and more over all, than kydex, which tends top only wear at specific contact points. Over time, the gun in leather holster usually shows more overall wear and has a worn out, or washed out look to it.
Leather allows dirt and abrasives to be embedded in it, which are not readily removed, if its even possible to do so. Kydex on the other hand, can be rinsed out in the sink under the tap, and instantly dried with a paper towel.
Wet holsters and rust are another big issue with leather. If you live and work in a warm climate, and carry IWB, they are again the wrong choice. Once wet, they dont dry out quickly, and usually takes days of airing. It doesnt take long for a gun in a sweat soaked holster to start to rust, and once it does, you'll be hard pressed to stop its progression.
This old Colt was originally a bright blue. I originally carried it in two Galco Royal Guards. Once summer set in, I needed two, and actually, could have used a third, as both were soon always wet. It only took a couple of months of hot, humid, and sweaty PA summer for the rust to set in heavily, even with daily wipe downs. Once the rust started, it was aggressive, and I had to have it polished out and had the gun refinished in the hard chrome you see now. I also switched to a Blade Tech kydex IWB. Rust dropped to nil, and only at the grip panel on the body side where the sweat guard didnt cover it. The black streaks you see, are actually mirror polished chrome, and not actually "black". Thats also 10 years of hard daily use, and in the same holster. Up until then, I was usually going through a couple of good leather holsters a year. $50 over ten years works out a lot better than $150 a year with leather. While I no longer carry the Commander, I still have both it and the holster, which is a usable as the day I bought it.
Leather allows dirt and abrasives to be embedded in it, which are not readily removed, if its even possible to do so. Kydex on the other hand, can be rinsed out in the sink under the tap, and instantly dried with a paper towel.
Wet holsters and rust are another big issue with leather. If you live and work in a warm climate, and carry IWB, they are again the wrong choice. Once wet, they dont dry out quickly, and usually takes days of airing. It doesnt take long for a gun in a sweat soaked holster to start to rust, and once it does, you'll be hard pressed to stop its progression.
This old Colt was originally a bright blue. I originally carried it in two Galco Royal Guards. Once summer set in, I needed two, and actually, could have used a third, as both were soon always wet. It only took a couple of months of hot, humid, and sweaty PA summer for the rust to set in heavily, even with daily wipe downs. Once the rust started, it was aggressive, and I had to have it polished out and had the gun refinished in the hard chrome you see now. I also switched to a Blade Tech kydex IWB. Rust dropped to nil, and only at the grip panel on the body side where the sweat guard didnt cover it. The black streaks you see, are actually mirror polished chrome, and not actually "black". Thats also 10 years of hard daily use, and in the same holster. Up until then, I was usually going through a couple of good leather holsters a year. $50 over ten years works out a lot better than $150 a year with leather. While I no longer carry the Commander, I still have both it and the holster, which is a usable as the day I bought it.
I like leather holsters; use them almost daily here on the farm but rarely over an hour or two. I've never been a LEO and so don't carry for eight hours at a time. That said, my guns are never stored in a leather holster or even a gun sleeve or rug in the safe. If they're not on my belt, they're racked, open to the circulating air and thoroughly wiped down with a good gun oil.
Humidity clings to leather and if you store or leave a blued weapon in it, it will rust. The same holds true for most pistol rugs. Leave your guns racked when not in use in as dry a place as you can find.
Best of luck, and keep 'em oiled with something good, like CLP or Breakfree if you use them regularly...like once a month...for longer periods a heavier coating is necessary.
The above advice was extracted directly from military manuals.
Regards, Rodfac
Humidity clings to leather and if you store or leave a blued weapon in it, it will rust. The same holds true for most pistol rugs. Leave your guns racked when not in use in as dry a place as you can find.
Best of luck, and keep 'em oiled with something good, like CLP or Breakfree if you use them regularly...like once a month...for longer periods a heavier coating is necessary.
The above advice was extracted directly from military manuals.
Regards, Rodfac
AK103K -- Good point about the Kydex IWB holsters and sweating. I have an inside job so don't have to worry about that. When I'm outside and active, I'm wearing shorts with a small pistol in a nylon pocket holster. I'm not totally convinced about Kydex wearing less than leather. It may depend on the person's use.
Kydex only wears where it touches the gun, same as leather. The difference is, the contact points are usually more specific, instead of more overall. Where the gun doesnt touch the holster, basically stays new looking.
The biggest advantage if you sweat is, kydex is impervious to moisture. Its also a lot nicer against your bare skin should that occur. It slides easily across wet skin, leather, wet or dry, tends to rub you raw.
This P226 has a couple of years of daily use in the same type holster, and the only place it shows any wear, is right on the edge of the trigger guard and a small spot of two on the slide (you really have to look too)....
As does this old P245....
Theres no doubt, lifestyle and use will have different impacts on things too. If you dont subject the gun to bad environments and dont draw it much, youll see less wear than someone who does. If youre really worried about the finish wearing, dont put it in a holster.
The biggest advantage if you sweat is, kydex is impervious to moisture. Its also a lot nicer against your bare skin should that occur. It slides easily across wet skin, leather, wet or dry, tends to rub you raw.
This P226 has a couple of years of daily use in the same type holster, and the only place it shows any wear, is right on the edge of the trigger guard and a small spot of two on the slide (you really have to look too)....
As does this old P245....
Theres no doubt, lifestyle and use will have different impacts on things too. If you dont subject the gun to bad environments and dont draw it much, youll see less wear than someone who does. If youre really worried about the finish wearing, dont put it in a holster.
KyJim made the most salient point.
The most wear on a finish occurs when the pistol can move about in the holster. It is the continual rubbing that wears at the finish.
So, pick a holster that is made specifically for the pistol (revolver) and fit it properly.
Yes, inserting and removing the pistol will cause wear. There just ain't no free lunch.
The most wear on a finish occurs when the pistol can move about in the holster. It is the continual rubbing that wears at the finish.
So, pick a holster that is made specifically for the pistol (revolver) and fit it properly.
Yes, inserting and removing the pistol will cause wear. There just ain't no free lunch.
Thanks for all the help and the insight. I am awaiting my CHL, so I am trying to get geared up. I have several handguns that I will rotate, and I bought a Crossbreed Supertuck for my Glocks. I haven't been concerned with the Kydex on the Glocks as they have a pretty resilient finish, and are pretty slab-sided. I wasn't sure about using Kydex for my revolvers, though, so I have ordered leather, IWB and OWB for them. The blued revolvers I plan to keep waxed ext/oiled int, and the stainless revolvers I'm not worried about. Here are the guns I plan to use:
Glock 19
Glock 27
SP101 in .327 and .357
Taurus 605 and 617 (blued)
Pocket guns: Taurus 85, Ruger LCR, and a Bodyguard38.
Glock 19
Glock 27
SP101 in .327 and .357
Taurus 605 and 617 (blued)
Pocket guns: Taurus 85, Ruger LCR, and a Bodyguard38.
I like the feel and character of leather holsters and blued guns. My carry revolvers are blued and I carry them all day every day in leather holsters. If the guns are wiped down with good gun oil, they will wear for decades that way without becoming rusty. If you sweat a lot and your gun picks up body salts, that will cause more problems than the leather. A good leather holster will protect the gun from body salts and premature rust.
My Detective Special was carried by someone for more than 30 years before I bought it and it shows only holster wear, no rust. I've been carrying it for a few years and still it looks good. Percentage wise, probably 85% of the bluing is still there. I'm not interested in rebluing this tool. It's totally reliable the way it is. Most of the holster wear comes from my practicing drawing the gun. If you're worried about the gun too much, you won't use it enough to master it.
Buy the gun that you want and carry it in the holster that you want. You seem like the type of guy who takes care of things. Just wipe it down at least once a week and daily after sweating a lot. You will be able to pass that gun down to your grandchildren and the only issue will be holster wear.
If it bothers you, buy a carry gun to really use and a safe queen to fondle.
My Detective Special was carried by someone for more than 30 years before I bought it and it shows only holster wear, no rust. I've been carrying it for a few years and still it looks good. Percentage wise, probably 85% of the bluing is still there. I'm not interested in rebluing this tool. It's totally reliable the way it is. Most of the holster wear comes from my practicing drawing the gun. If you're worried about the gun too much, you won't use it enough to master it.
Buy the gun that you want and carry it in the holster that you want. You seem like the type of guy who takes care of things. Just wipe it down at least once a week and daily after sweating a lot. You will be able to pass that gun down to your grandchildren and the only issue will be holster wear.
If it bothers you, buy a carry gun to really use and a safe queen to fondle.
I have a friend I camp with sometimes who is a bit fussy about "his things."
Last time we went camping, he brought his new plastic canoe and I brought my time worn aluminum canoe. We sort of took turns going together in the canoes. When we were in his canoe, we had to be particularly careful about rocks or beaching the canoe on sandy soil. He didn't want it scratched.
After a few trips we came ashore and he met someone who had the same kind of canoe he had. I listened to them talk about how hard it was to keep the canoes looking new.
Later that night while sitting around the camp fire with a couple of beers, I told him he needed to buy two canoes, one to keep polished up in the living room and one to use. That way he wouldn't have the limitations he has self imposed on his use of the canoe, but he would still have one in pristine condition.
Moral of the story is that anything you are going to use is going to show wear. If you have to have a new looking toy, buy two - one to use, one to show.
Last time we went camping, he brought his new plastic canoe and I brought my time worn aluminum canoe. We sort of took turns going together in the canoes. When we were in his canoe, we had to be particularly careful about rocks or beaching the canoe on sandy soil. He didn't want it scratched.
After a few trips we came ashore and he met someone who had the same kind of canoe he had. I listened to them talk about how hard it was to keep the canoes looking new.
Later that night while sitting around the camp fire with a couple of beers, I told him he needed to buy two canoes, one to keep polished up in the living room and one to use. That way he wouldn't have the limitations he has self imposed on his use of the canoe, but he would still have one in pristine condition.
Moral of the story is that anything you are going to use is going to show wear. If you have to have a new looking toy, buy two - one to use, one to show.
