Blackhawk question
- Thread starter fmjcafe
- Start date
I am assuming you mean it only covers part of the firing pin when you cock it. Mine are the same. Cocking the hammer pre-positions the transfer bar but not quite in its final location and pulling the trigger raises it to its final position. Try it slowly and take a look (obviously with a doubly checked unloaded gun) 
If it never covers more than 1/3 of the firing pin, I would guess something is not right. Hope that helps.
If it never covers more than 1/3 of the firing pin, I would guess something is not right. Hope that helps.When I pull the trigger and restrain the hammer with my thumb I can see the transfer bar raise up some but you`re right, after the hammer travels forward some more I can`t tell if the transfer bar raises to cover more of the firing pin or not.
I also have a question about the value of the piece.It`s a 6 1/2 inch with a little wear of the blueing around the muzzle and the top of the front sight.Otherwise all the blueing is in fine shape.
S/N is 32-43xxx.
I picked it up for what I thought was a bargain price of $175.
I also have a question about the value of the piece.It`s a 6 1/2 inch with a little wear of the blueing around the muzzle and the top of the front sight.Otherwise all the blueing is in fine shape.
S/N is 32-43xxx.
I picked it up for what I thought was a bargain price of $175.
Ya, $250 would have been fair. $175 is great 
.
Good base platform for crazy modifications, which is what I'd do (chop barrel flush with ejector, custom tritium sights, belt mountain base pin, Eagle Gunfighter grips, Power Custom free spin pawl, polished cylinder bores so that nickel-cased .38+P will just fall out with no ejector stroke needed, etc!).
. Good base platform for crazy modifications, which is what I'd do (chop barrel flush with ejector, custom tritium sights, belt mountain base pin, Eagle Gunfighter grips, Power Custom free spin pawl, polished cylinder bores so that nickel-cased .38+P will just fall out with no ejector stroke needed, etc!).
Jim,thats sounds like it would be a sweet set up.
The more I look at this thing the more I discover.The front of the cylinder has the last three digits of the serial number etched on it along with what looks like the letter C.On the rear of the cylinder is a letter S. I was talking with a friend and he thought only the convertibles had the S/N on the cylinders.
I`ve had someone offer to sell me a set of Ruger Ivorex grips for it for $25.Must be my week for bargains.
The more I look at this thing the more I discover.The front of the cylinder has the last three digits of the serial number etched on it along with what looks like the letter C.On the rear of the cylinder is a letter S. I was talking with a friend and he thought only the convertibles had the S/N on the cylinders.
I`ve had someone offer to sell me a set of Ruger Ivorex grips for it for $25.Must be my week for bargains.
Range Report
I took my new toy to the range today and everything is fine.It went bang every time I pulled the trigger and I was able to keep 3 cylinders full of Blazer 158 gr. jhp`s in the black on a rapid fire pistol target at 25 yards.Considering my lousy eyesight I`m pretty happy.
I took my new toy to the range today and everything is fine.It went bang every time I pulled the trigger and I was able to keep 3 cylinders full of Blazer 158 gr. jhp`s in the black on a rapid fire pistol target at 25 yards.Considering my lousy eyesight I`m pretty happy.