Blackhawk front sight pin comes out

J

jski

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Blackhawk rear sight pin comes out

Just got a brand-spankin'-new .30 Carbine Blackhawk as a replacement for one I sent in for repair.

They've already sent me a new ejector rod (one for .30 Carbine Blackhawk).

But NOW another problem: the small pin in the rear sight keeps coming out when shooting.

Do I need to call Ruger or is there a solution short of that?
 
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Quick-fix, non-gunsmith suggestions:

1. Try another roll pin.

2. Purple Loctite (222). It should hold a roll pin without much trouble, but still allows easy removal.

3. Stake it. Flare the ends of the roll pin, so that the pin must be driven out, rather than being able to rattle out. It makes removal more difficult in the future, but stops the problem.
 
The one that's really appealing is the Purple Loctite 222.

Went to Amazon and found a plethora of threadlockers. Loctite seems to have the market here. And it comes in many varieties of strength: low, medium, high, medium and oil resistant, high and high temperature resistant, etc.

Is oil resistant a factor here?
 
Gluing things on firearms never has appealed much to me. I would take a small cold chisel and give the roll pin a tap or two over the split portion, which would flare it slightly and this should make it secure enough....or as previously mentioned flaring around the ends should work.
 
Same as Old Stony on my fix. Spread it a little with a small sharp cold chisel along its gap, or even stake one end to swell it slightly by using a prick punch to make one or two small indents around one end. Drive the unstaked end in first.
 
Looked at an explosion diagram of the Blackhawk and the pin in question is the: Rear Sight Pivot Pin.
 
From Kyle @ Ruger:

I would not recommend using thread locker or Loctite on any of our firearms. I would recommend contacting our Customer Service department at 336-949-5200 to create an RMA for your firearm.

If a replacement cross pin did not work then our next step would be to evaluate the firearm.
Click to expand...
 
Quite often the simple remedy is to put a slight bend in the pin about midway. I've seen this recommendation several times but have not had a need to try it.
 
Quite often the simple remedy is to put a slight bend in the pin about midway


I have done this to a number of Rugers over the years and it works
 
FrankenMauser, would you recommend anything strong the 222? Loctite has an entire range of threadlocker strengths.
 
The bent pin method works. I have that employed on some of my guns. The issue is if it is a split roll pin ( basically a small hollow tube) you must be careful bending it or it will crush in the middle, which change the OD). I would not "evaluate the gun" as Ruger said before I tried a simple fix. That is assuming you can do light repairs. I am not being insulting, but I have met people who are baffled by anything mechanical. They struggle with a screwdriver.

Also, using two taper tip punches, you can easily flare both ends without driving the pin thru.

Take punch number one, lock it in a vise, with the pointy side up, rest the roll pin on the punch ( while assembled in the gun, an extra set of hands would be great here) then using the second punch, placed on the opposite side of the roll pin, give it a good whack. This will lightly flare both ends at the same time, and prevent it from ever walking out again. You will have to drive it out in the future, but as long as you don't flare it too much, it should be easy. A flare of as little as .005 will do the trick in a no stress part.

Good luck

Rich
 
jski, if I were doing it to my own revolver, I wouldn't go any 'stronger' than 222.
My goal would be to simply stop the shaking loose, not to cement it in place so much that only heat will allow removal in the future (262, 271, 272, etc.).
 
Dixie Gunsmithing, Mobuck, redlightrich, and KEYBEAR are displaying too much good practical and effective smithy knowledge.

Just QUIT that! ;)
 
FrankerMauser, I applied some Loctite 222 threadlocker as described. Left for the range and all was well. Until the pin started to come out again ... after a ~100 rounds.

How long do I need to leave the threadlocker to cure/dry? There were no instructions regarding this.
 
I'm sorry to hear that.

Most Loctite formulas state 24 hours for full cure.
222, specifically, shows:
20 minute set.
77 F cure temperature.
24 hours for full cure.

Under perfect conditions, full strength can be reached at 6 hours. But tolerances on that pin and hole are likely to make it more like 18-24 hours.

In the morning, it may be set where ever you left it.
If not, I'd suspect oil contamination or tolerances (a gap) beyond 222's limits.
 
I had the same problem. Keybear is right as well as others. I called Ruger on mine. The lady says a slight bend in the pin will fix the problem. If you have a problem with that they will send me a new pin for FREE. I bent my pin.
 
Next time the pin works out Pull it out about half way bend it a little tap it back in . Takes two minutes should fix it has for me on a number of Rugers .
 
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