Bisley wins a trip to Ruger

C

C5rider

New member
I've got a Vaquero Bisley 357 that I bought used. I like the gun a lot but there's one thing that just has me wanting more. Everything is fine if I'm shooting 38s, but when I load her up with 357s, about every 3-4th shot, the hammer sticks. If I fiddle with the hammer, cylinder or base pin, it frees up and I can cock it and continue shooting.

Initially, I thought it might be a base pin issue and considered a Belt Mountain BP. Then I got thinking that it might be something else, and the money for the base pin might not solve the problem. I contacted Ruger and they suggested that I ship the firearm to them.

It's an older Vaquero (not NEW Vaquero) so it's the larger frame. To my knowledge, there's no issues with sending it back like an old, unconverted 3-screw or something. But I've never shipped a firearm before and, truth be told, I'm relatively new to handguns.

So, to send something to Ruger, do I just put it in a box, lick a stamp and send it off? I have to call for an RMA number and stuff from what I understand. My biggest fear is if I send it to them and they quote me some crazy price to repair it, or to get it back. Or, that it simply needed a base pin all along.

Anyone ever send one back ot the mother ship? How was the experience? what is the protocol throughout the entire procedure? Any insight is always welcome.

thanks!
 
So, to send something to Ruger, do I just put it in a box, lick a stamp and send it off? I have to call for an RMA number and stuff from what I understand. My biggest fear is if I send it to them and they quote me some crazy price to repair it, or to get it back. Or, that it simply needed a base pin all along.
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Unless you are an 01 FFL, it is illegal for you to ship this handgun (or any after 1899) through the post office. I ship handguns fedex. Fedex is pretty reasonable with their prices.
 
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C5rider,

It sounds to me as if your base pin might be riding forward slightly. There is a spring loaded pin in the end of the base pin that rides against the transfer bar. If the base pin slides forward, the transfer bar is not lifted enough to clear the firing pin, and hits and stops as it contacts the firing pin. Your base pin may be too short, or peened where it contacts the base pin latch. Either you will need a new base pin, or a new base pin latch.

Ruger will probably fix it free, if not, neither part is an expensive fix. Could be just some crud got into the end of the base pin.

Try this: After making sure the gun is empty, hold the muzzle up and try cocking the gun. It should cock, if it is as I describe. Then hold the gun muzzle down and try to cock the gun, it probably won't cock if its as I describe.

Does any of this make sense to you? I know what I mean, hope you do.

But then, again, it could be everything else except the base pin.

Bob Wright
 
Thanks guys.

I know exactly what you're talking about Bob. While it was "sticking" I gave a quick look at the transfer bar to see if it was catching under the firing pin. It appeared to be out far enough that it would not catch. I also stretched the spring a little bit on the retainer for the base pin, thinking that it might simply be too weak. I figured that it might not be a permanent fix, but if it improved, then I'd know that I could get the stronger spring and it should fix it. It didn't seem to help. I also checked that the retainer was tightened down adequately. The small pin in the back of the base pin seems to have good spring tension as well.

That's where I started thinking that it might be in the pawl for the cylinder or ? I don't have the history on this gun and I can't tell how many rounds have been down the pipe or, if they've been mouse farts or moose-killers. I like the gun (it goes well with all my other Rugers) but it'd be much nicer if it cycled correctly all the time. I'm thinking that a trip to Ruger might be the best way to handle it.
 

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If you bought the gun at a regular dealer, talk to them and as if they would ship it for you if you box it up and do the label. Dealers can ship via the mail, and even if they charge a fee, it may still be cheaper than FedEx or UPS.

Ruger can return the gun directly to you.

Jim
 
Just for grins, look at the nut part of the base pin latch, and the edge of the groove in the base pin. If these are battered or peened, that would be your problem.

I'm always interested in Ruger Single Actions, would appreciate knowing what Ruger finds and what they do to correct it.


Bob Wright
 
That is DEFINITELY a thought James K. The gun shop that I bought it from is pretty good to work with and I don't mind paying for it at all. I'm always looking for a good reason to head over there. Maybe just to ask the question and see what they say.

I'll surely update this thread once I find out more. Thanks!
 
You don't have to worry about sending back a Ruger with a legitimate concern. In fact I'm 99.953780% positive they'll fix it free and send it back on their dime too!
 
I have seen dozens of posts on here about Ruger fixing guns , especially handguns , at no cost. Even when it was apparent the gun was abused or simply worn out. They almost always do more than asked of them. I don't think you need spend another moment worrying about Ruger gouging you.
 
Thanks guys! That is comforting. I've heard good things about them as well. I've got five Rugers already and with that sort of customer service, it's only a matter of time before another one finds it's way home! First, to get this one on it's trip back to the mother ship!
 
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