Big LCR Grips to prevent Crimp Jump?

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dubious

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What are the largest, heaviest grips available for the LCR? I hope to improve reliability for Crimp Jump (ammo falling apart) by adding as much weight as possible to my 9mm LCR. This is a range gun only. I really wanted a 9mm SP-101, but they are unobtainable. I have a J-Frame with 10 oz Pachmayr Decelerator grips and its like shooting a full size revolver!
 
Are you using Factory ammo or reloaded ammo? If reloaded, crimp a bit firmer

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, I understand that you need to test your ammo and crimp. I just want to get bigger grips to improve reliability across the board with random store bought ammo.
 
I got the large hogue tamer that comes on the 3" LCRX.
I used it both on the LCRX shortie and the .357 LCR for shooting buffalo bore .38 +P outdoorsman and .357 in the LCR.

They made a difference in control and comfort and I'm able to get all three fingers on.

No crimp jump in the hot loads I shot, around the 400 ME ft. pound range.

You body size, strength, hold all are relative factors as well, as the crimp jump is not just from weight of the gun, but the hold against recoil impulse.
 
These are ugly, but they work well; I have one on my 642 - made all the difference
http://ergogrips.net/shop/delta-grip-ruger-lcr-lcr-x-frame-black/

rugerlcrsolo-1.jpg
 
Buy a heavier revolver in 9mm and you won't have to deal with crimp jump. I think the Charter Arms Pitbull is something around 25 oz and it doesn't use moon clips either to shoot 9mm.
 
Crimping 9mm on bullets without a groove or cannelure is nearly useless. Case tension on the bullet holds 9mm rounds together.

I've seen factory ammo pull out on those small Rugers.

9mm automatics tend to try to push the bullets deeper into the case during cycling and under recoil. 9mm was not designed for revolver use.

As a reloader, you can do something about this. You need both a standard and an undersize sizing die. You also need standard and undersize expanders. Lyman M-type expanders can easily be undersized with a drill and a stone.

Experiment with different combos of sizers, expanders and bullet diameters by making dummy rounds. For example, Remington brass is very thick, needing only a standard sizer and expander to give strong tension on .356" bullets. FC brass is very thin and needs an undersize sizer and expander for good tension on .356" bullets. For loading .355 bullets, WW brass is perfect with a standard sizer and undersize expander.

The possibilities with different headstamps of brass, dies and bullets is endless for getting that case tension right.

Also, those cases need to free of ash where the bullet sits. Ash acts as a lubricant. Get it all right and enjoy those small 9mm revolvers!
 
The OP buys a hideout gun and the wants to put the biggest, heaviest grips he can find so he can reliably shoot ammunition designed for an auto in his revolver. You gotta love it.:rolleyes:
 
Oh I got that it was a range. Small hideouts don't normally make the best range guns either. After a while some shooters want to improve their groups on the target. There are better guns for doing that than a hideout snubby.:D
 
Which is why I mentioned those grips. They really work on the recoil and handling and should help the OP in his quest.
 
Hopefully those will work for the OP and he will post some pictures of his groups. I would be curious to see if they also help with bullet jump.
 
Sneaky Steve is there a conversion cylinder for that gun? Also how does that brass frame hold up to full power loads?
 
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