BHP Trigger Questions

L

locnload

New member
Maybe its just my imagination or perhaps because I have recently been concentrating and working on trigger control, but here's the question. I normally carry and shoot a Glock 19, or 26, both with standard triggers. Today I took one of my favorite "Safe Queens" a Belgium made Browning High Power 9mm to the indoor range. Its a great pistol, more accurate than I will ever be, and a pleasure to shoot. But I'm having a real problem with maintaining a smooth trigger pull. While the Glock trigger only has to go part of the way forward to reset, the BHP has to travel all the way forward, then has a fairly long and loose pull before meeting some resistance and finally breaking. Is this just because I am unaccoustomed to the BHP or is there trigger work that can be done to help. On slow deliberate shots it works great but trying to shoot rapid fire, I'm yanking the gun all over the place. HELP :confused:
 
Glock and BHP triggers are very different .It will take some time to adjust.Concentrate on the BHP and don't shoot the Glock. BHP trigger can be made very nice if you know what you're doing or have a gunsmith do it.
 
Magazine Disconnect

LocnLoad: Does your HP still have an intact Magazine safety? The greatest simple improvement one can make to an HP is to remove the Magazine safety.
 
control

Sir;
Do not "go off your trigger" during rapid fire - stay on it - only let it forward far enough to re-set and then smoothly squeeze again. See Tommy Campbell on this!
Harry B.
 
I don't recommend removing the magazine safety but the part that rubs on the magazine, and the magazine itself can be smoothed up and lubricated so the effect is minimal. The fact is that that is just not a very good trigger mechanism, though I am told that Canadian armorers did wonders with it when it was used in their service pistol matches. It takes a lot of tinkering, though, and a lot of experience.

Just FWIW, the main problem is that the trigger and trigger lever are in the frame, the sear lever is in the slide, and the sear is in the frame. So when the trigger is pulled it pushes the slide up while it is trying to move the sear lever, and the sear lever also tries to move the slide as it pushes down on the sear. If there is play between the slide and frame, the trigger actually moves the mass of the slide while trying to move the sear. It is a "round the corner and down the street" trigger pull that is not at all conducive to accuracy though it was probably the best Browning/Saive could come up with at the time given the requirement for a large capacity magazine.

Jim
 
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I don't recommend removing the magazine safety
Click to expand...

Bill Laughridge does:p

Thats why his triggers arent drilled for them

I agree on your analysis of the trigger system though

Do not "go off your trigger" during rapid fire - stay on it - only let it forward far enough to re-set and then smoothly squeeze again.
Click to expand...

Yep

WildasusualharryspeakswisdomAlaska TM
 
For those who are nervous about removing the mag safety you can polish the contact area of each of your mags and polish the back of the safety piece.
 
Thanks for all the help Guys. To answer 1911's question, yes the mag safety is still functional and I'm not sure I want to disable it mostly for legal concerns. I have no plans to carry it for personal defense but then again if I had more confidence in my ability to shoot it well under pressure I may carry it at times. I guess I'll take it to a good pistolsmith and see what happens. :)
 
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