Beveled seating dieDoes

R

rebs

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Does anyone make a beveled seating die for 38 cal wad cutters ? The rcbs die that I have has a very square shoulder and the bullet has to be lined up about perfect to go into the die.
 
Sounds like you could use a dremel tool to bevel the die mouth opening. Cost of tool probably not that much different than cost of new seating die. Find one at a Harbor Freight or Lowes Building Supply store and verify proper size beveling accessory to accommodate the job.
 
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1) You have to have the bullet straight. The seating plug is not going to straighten the bullet.
2) If you use a LOT of case mouth flare, it is LOT easier to set the bullet straight on the case and have it stay straight.
3) You can get a Hornady New Dimension seating die that has a sleeve that keeps the bullet aligned; however, you STILL have to have the bullet straight enough to go in the sleeve.
4) I use #2. I have never lost a case yet from over-working due to excess flare, and I would rather lose a case than make ammunition that is not as accurate as possible.
5) Get a Redding Profile Crimp Die for the roll crimp. Does a better job that any other roll crimp die I have tried.
 
I likewise would suggest checking the amount of flare being applied to the case mouths. If excessive, backing off some may help the situation. Is it mostly the bullet or case mouth not entering the die easily that is responsible?
 
I have a couple RCBS seating dies for .357 and 38 special. However I use my Lee 38 special die for Wadcutters and round nose bullets.
 
I'm not entirely sure what the question actually means. If you need to bevel the inside of the die base, use a drill if drill press with either a hardened steel bevel bit or a conical stone. A very light touch is necessary. If your cases aren't flaring properly, keeping your flat based bullets from entering, the expanding die needs to be adjusted. It might also be the case that your die is a .357 only die that isn't going to work on a .38. Some companies did that, and they are only interchangeable when it 's made for the 38.
 
1) You have to have the bullet straight. The seating plug is not going to straighten the bullet.
2) If you use a LOT of case mouth flare, it is LOT easier to set the bullet straight on the case and have it stay straight.
3) You can get a Hornady New Dimension seating die that has a sleeve that keeps the bullet aligned; however, you STILL have to have the bullet straight enough to go in the sleeve.
4) I use #2. I have never lost a case yet from over-working due to excess flare, and I would rather lose a case than make ammunition that is not as accurate as possible.
5) Get a Redding Profile Crimp Die for the roll crimp. Does a better job that any other roll crimp die I have tried.
Click to expand...
Thanks noylj...
 
The bullet is what hits the bottom of the die. A flat nose wad cutter that is just a hair smaller than the case. All other bullets seat fine.

Does the Lee seating die have a bevel at the bottom ?
 
I don't use a Lee seating die with the .38 but Lee dies for handgun calibers appear to have more bevel. I'm still using the old vintage Herter's .38 seating die. Old loading tools seem to never die and hardly even fade away.
 
"...hits the bottom of the die..." Sounds like you haven't flared the case mouth enough or at all. Should be just enough flare for the bullet to sit in the case mouth and stay there without you touching it.
"...a Dremel tool to bevel the die mouth..." That'd take a hundred years and won't be round. Dies are hardened. No rotary tools.
 
Well yes a dremel tool would require an accessory capable of handling a bevel. I have a tapered reamer that could do the job within minutes or less with an electric drill.
 
Examining several Lee handgun seating dies, they definitely have a more than adequate bevel but so do the RCBS seaters. If you have a machine shop handy, take the RCBS seater in and maybe they will apply a bevel while you wait.
 
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