best way to go about putting an AR upper and lower together?

colostomyclown

New member
So I bought a RRA and love it, now thinking I'm ready to puyt a complete upper and lower of my choice together. Wanting a Daniel Defense or BCM upper and an LMT, BCM or Spikes Tactical lower. However, I'm not really into waiting...the Daniel Defense upper while pricey I can get right now through Midway. Which high quality lowers along the lines of what I mentioned have short wait times and/or can be obtained easily in a local gun store?
 
A lower is a lower is a lower...

Go to your local gun store and pick out a lower that looks cool to you. If you wait until your upper arrives you might sweet talk a clerk into letting you test for upper/lower tolerances.

Jimro
 
Take a look at Smartgunner.com DD uppers. Yesterday the stripped 16" midlengths were in stock for $409 with free shipping. You can add a rail, BCG and CH. I got the LW earlier this year and love it - basically built a DD M4V3 LW. I built up a S&W lower and the upper's fit and finish matches nicely. I call it a Dan Wesson!
 
Most of us just mate them together and push the pins in to secure them. :D

"Local gun store" means getting the FFL to accept a transfer and running the paperwork through. Whether they sell it to you is another matter - they want their markup, and some won't carry lowers without it. What you see on the net for pricing doesn't obligate them to sell it to you for that.

It's why so many charge $25 + just to process the paper. They don't make a dime of retail for the lower. Ex: I could buy a stripped lower for $130 off the shelf at one FFL, the other would take a $25 fee to process a $79 one. And so it goes.

If you want a specific rollmark, you're best deal might be a stocking dealer in your state, add gas and roadtime to your costs.
 
I just picked up a Double Star Lower in a trade, and am looking at mating a 16" DS upper to it for a truck gun.

I'm altogether unimpressed by the skill required to assemble an AR15 after having met some of the meatheads who manage it without blowing themselves to smithereens. :D

KR
 
Kentucky_Rifleman said:
I'm altogether unimpressed by the skill required to assemble an AR15 after having met some of the meatheads who manage it without blowing themselves to smithereens.

No kidding;) AR15, some assembly required. Inserting a pivot pin and a take down pin is not assembling a thing! I'm surprised at how many ways the hammer spring can be installed incorrectly.
 
what I'm not understanding is if there is any compatability issues. I've heard things here and there. Is it a matter, mostly, of just pinning the two together and spitting some lead or what? No headspace or feed issues to look for when mating two entirely different brands?

Also, when one says MILSPEC are they referring only to the diameter of the buffer tube?
 
So long as you're using a quality lower, you won't have any problems. Rollmarks don't matter.

If you *really* want one of those brands you said, AIM Surplus has Spike's Tactical lowers for $80 and free shipping. If you're going to have one shipped, may as well order more than one for future use. Lowers aren't often found in stock at local gun shops (and when they are, it can be for high prices... I know some places that were trying to sell $100 lowers for $250+; there's just no way they can be price competitive on in-stock lowers vs. ordering them in).
 
what I'm not understanding is if there is any compatability issues. I've heard things here and there. Is it a matter, mostly, of just pinning the two together and spitting some lead or what? No headspace or feed issues to look for when mating two entirely different brands?

Also, when one says MILSPEC are they referring only to the diameter of the buffer tube?

When they say milspec for a lower, they're meaning things like pins being properly sized and in the right location, the magwell being properly sized, etc. There's no such thing as a truly milspec lower for our use; those have the sear pin hole, and we can't have those. So the next best thing is just a quality lower that's otherwise to spec, and there's very, VERY few that are not.

As for headspacing and feed issues, nope, no issue. Headspacing is more an issue of the barrel and barrel extension- there's not one thing you can do about that. Sometimes you can get tolerances stacking between that and the bolt, but I've never had an issue with it and it's extremely rare to hear of one.

Feed issues are usually mag related in an AR-15. Don't buy crappy mags and you usually won't have a problem.

No, you don't have to worry about mixing brands. So long as the stuff is to spec (again, pin holes in the right spots, etc.), it's all mix and match. For a first timer, you'll probably be using a complete upper, and that's the trickiest part anyway (getting the barrel nut torqued up properly), so you won't have any worries. If you're just throwing a LPK into a stripped lower and adding a stock kit, just make sure you get the hammer spring done properly and match the stock to the buffer tube*, and you won't have any issues.


* Commerical vs. milspec buffer tubes (aka receiver extensions) are more a matter of outside diameter than an issue of actual quality. Commercial tubes are slightly larger in diameter with threads cut in; milspec tubes are smaller O.D. with rolled threads (quick way to tell them apart: a milspec tube's threads will stick up over the surface of the tube, but the commercial tube's threads don't). Theoretically the milspec threads make for a better mate into the lower, but in practice that's not a real issue unless you use the rifle butt as a sledgehammer. There's no difference in the buffer itself and a spring. You just have to make sure you get the right stock for the tube; a milspec stock will jam on the commercial tube and not move while a commercial stock will be very loose on a milspec tube. There's more stock options available for a milspec tube, but if you find the stock you want in the appropriate tube, it doesn't matter which you have.
 
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