Best way to check for excessive pressure in semi auto pistol

98 220 swift

New member
I have been reloading for atleast 10 years. So I am no newbie at it but since I bought a 10mm I am wondering the best way to check for excesive pressure. I have always used the hard to extract method on revolvers and rifles before. I have always heard reading the primer is not the best method. Before I always used fairly light data for my semi pistols and rifles but with the 10 I want to push things a bit.
 
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Not scientific and not a good way to check pressure but I've noted that comparing ejection of cases shows levels of charges. From barely clearing the pistol and landing at your feet to 20 feet behind you. Primer flatness or expansion around the firing pin indent, and swelling just in front of the ejector groove are some indications. I still pay attention to ejection of factory cases and of my reloads as loads get worked up to book maximums. Sizing effort also can show the difference in mild or max loads. Pressure signs in pistol loads are surely harder to tell than in a bottleneck rifle. Like RKG said in the following post, a chronograph is a very handy tool to check your loads and velocity levels.
 
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Take input from: chronograph, loading manuals, case head expansion, case head engraving, and primer flow.

The case against primer appearance as a data point for high pressure is that it sometimes yields false positives, not that it gives false negatives.
 
I glance at primers (flattening, cratering, piercing), but while I'm at it, I study the case head too; "Flattening" of the headstamp? Any "imprinted" marks from bolt? I too am aware at how the cases are ejected or strewn half way to never-never land. My Garand is a perfect example of that because the op rod returning the gun to battery will hit the ejected case when loads are on the light side and land anywhere from 12:00 to 2:00 and heavier loads land at 3:00-4:00 oclock from my rifle (I know the OP was asking about 100mm, jes an example, and I watch where my 1911 throws empties [like a drunken sailor :D]). But If I want a fairly reliable method I'll mic the case head; any expansion and I'll back off...
 
The best way is to stay well below maximum with your loads
By the time you start seeing signs, it's already dangerous
 
A pressure barrel is the best way, but not practical for most folks.

A secondary method that is safe can be done if you have a reliable chronograph. I saw one unit err by 200 fps one time, as compared to a known better one. The only thing I know to do is compare one to several others and assume the ones that cluster closest together are closest to correct. Bryan Litz likes the Magnetospeed with large sabre. It certainly has the advantage of not caring what the ambient light is doing. Everyone is still waiting to see what Labradar really turns out to do. It should, theoretically, provide the best absolute velocity accuracy.

What you are looking for with the chronograph is any sign that you are getting higher velocity than published data produced for the same length barrel. If your barrel length is different, you'll have to work up a match to the load data QuickLOAD with the test data barrel length, then change the barrel length to match your own to see what percent difference in velocity that makes with that powder and adjust the data velocity by that amount for comparison to your own measured velocities. Even if the predicted velocity is not dead on, the percent change will be very close to correct. The idea here is that if your velocity is higher your average pressure is also higher in proportion to the difference in muzzle energies, and your peak pressure will be still higher. A gun that produces this higher velocity is not a candidate for working all the way up to the maximum load listed in the data.

If, as is more common, you get less velocity than the load data had for the same length barrel, then you are most likely safe to work up to the published data's maximum. Other than tweaking models for a matching performance in QuickLOAD, I don't know a good way to guess at what peak pressure value your gun is actually experiencing. Only the average pressure can be gleaned from muzzle energy.

Primers can fail early (false indication) or they can fail to show any pressure signs even after recovering the head of a burst case after a gun has blown up (this has been known to happen in revolvers, in particular). What a primer pressure sign does show you is that the primer doesn't like the pressure. To use that as a pressure sign for your gun, though, you are assuming the manufacturer got the primer cup strength right to serve as a pressure indicator for your particular chambering.

Many's the time someone had primer signs from one brand of primer and none from another with the same load and despite the velocity being unchanged. So some primers may be closer to being good pressure indicators for lower pressure chamberings and lighter actions, while some are better for higher pressure chamberings or for more beefy guns. In any case, whether a primer pressure sign happens, by good luck, to also accurately represent high pressure for your particular gun's strength or not, you still don't want pierced primers. They cause pitting of the breech face of the weapon. So if you encounter a primer pressure sign, treat is as serious and stop working that particular load up. If switching primers eliminates the sign, you may be able to work up further, but no guarantees.
 
Most indicators are going to be anecdotal. Primers can give false positives or false negatives, Brass extraction is going to vary depending on many conditions. I was at the range last week testing light 45 ACP loads and the brass was still ending up 15 ft away. These were loads right at and some times slightly below the minimums in my Lyman book (I referenced other manuals to). Sizing effort is going to vary depending on cleanliness of dies, cases, lube used, etc.

Even a Chronograph doesn't tell you what the exact pressure is. Even with one you still need a baseline reference to compare how hot a specific loads is.
 
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond or not covered by currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The Firing Line, nor the staff of TFL assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

Unless I have terrible case support, pressure will not be a problem with 10mm, 40sw, 45acp, 9x23mm, 9x19mm, 7.62x25mm, 380, 32acp, or 25acp. The first main problem in a work up will be hand destroying, pistol destroying recoil.
Pressure manifests itself in a work up with case bulges over the feed ramp, pierced primers, primers falling out, chamber bulge, or chamber split.
Recoil manifest itself with cases that land much further than 5 feet away, the shooting hand hurts, and the slide is peening metal over where it stops from hammering the slide.
50 pound recoil springs require a strong grip to chamber, parallel springs in the magazine to keep feeding as fast as the slide, and maybe more trigger spring to reset faster. These changes typically get no where near a pressure problem. The brass still flies too far and the slide still hammers the frame in a work up. The slide mass is too low.
In a 10mm with a 40 ounce slide and 50 pound recoil spring assembly and good case support, the primer pocket would grow in a work up.
The 10mm and 25acp have the lowest pressure failure of the above semi cartridges due to the thin structure between the primer pocket and extractor groove. I have reached that point in a Glock 20 and Colt 1908 receptively with their inadequate slide masses. That was sacrificing my hand and the pistol wear for science:) Some of the other above cartridges hurt worse:(
 
I do have a chronograph but do not believe it is the best way to check for over pressure. 10 mm is odd. Normal factory loads are normally weak. On the other hand some stout load manufacters (buffalo bore etc) have loads that are way above what the manuals say is possible. I have loaded 25-06 loads in 3 different rifles that produce velocities well above published max loads when my loads are several grains under with very easy extraction. I have checked the chrono and it usually shows well under on most other calibers. All This leads me to believe that the velocity is not the best measure of pressure.

Bad thing about this pistol is it throws the brass everywhere so using it as a pressure indicator is not the best either. I will try the base measurent as I would see that as the best way.
 
If you could know what the pressure is, what would you do with that information

If I knew what pressure my loads are I would know if they are indeed over pressure. Would like to get 180 gr up to around 1250 fps. The reloading data is all over the place on this cartridge.
 
Sounds like you really need a chronograph. 10 years?

I've been loading longer than that and don't own a chronograph. I've always been more concerned with my results on target/feel/cleanliness... than FPS data.

Besides, the chrono gives you speed readings. Pressure changes can be caused by all sorts of things that wont necessarily give giant swings in FPS.
 
If I knew what pressure my loads are I would know if they are indeed over pressure. Would like to get 180 gr up to around 1250 fps. The reloading data is all over the place on this cartridge.

If this is your goal, then a chrono is your answer. Just build your loads until you hit the mark. If you MUST go over the load max data, take it in small amounts.

Also, it seems to me that over the last 30-40 years, the max loads listed are getting smaller. .357 mag used to be WAAAAY more powerful in the 80's. That said, I think you could ease past modern max listings and still me safe.
 
98 220 swift said:
Would like to get 180 gr up to around 1250 fps. The reloading data is all over the place on this cartridge.

Not sure what you mean by all over the place, but when in doubt, use Modern Pressure tested data.

IMO, that would be Hodgdon and Western Powders. Hornady and Sierra, foregetaboutit.

1250 fps out of a five (5) inch barrel is doable, but it can be pushing it depending on your choice of powder.

Longshot will get you there, but you should test it over a Chrony.

I have three (3) 10mm and all three of them showed the same chrony results.
Hodgdon lists a Max charge of 9.5gr of Longshot. In my testing velocity increased with every increase in charge until I hit 9.2gr. Charges above 9.2gr all showed a Decrease in velocity, so I considered 9.2gr My Max. Yes it was at or above 1250fps with 180gr bullets.

Blue Dot will get you there as well, but it has a lot of Flash, if that doesn't bother you the, it's worth a try.

I have not tried Power Pistol, but it is a favorite of many.
 
98 220 swift
If I knew what pressure my loads are I would know if they are indeed over pressure. Would like to get 180 gr up to around 1250 fps. The reloading data is all over the place on this cartridge.

You would know if you would know? Is that a circular definition?
 
The pressure testing is always relative, as none of the pressure test systems has absolute accuracy. You can buy reference loads that are right at SAAMI standard pressure, see what they measure on your particular instrument.

Muzzle Energy is a measure of work put into accelerating a bullet. When you divide it by the length of bullet travel in the bore, it returns the average force applied to the bullet during its barrel time that exceeded friction. Divide that force by the cross-sectional area of the bore, and you have average pressure. This is basic physics and has no option but to be true.

Estimates have been done by various authors over time, but friction probably equals 3-6% of the average force applied to a bullet base by pressure in most instances. Most bullets accelerate another 3% or so from muzzle blast in the first few calibers after exiting the muzzle, and that tends to give you a chronograph reading that compensates out friction, so I would ignore friction and just accept my results could be off 5%.

The practical problems with the above are two-fold. First, most people don't know how accurate their chronograph actually is. Second, as you change powder charge, muzzle pressure doesn't change as much as peak pressure, so the average pressure does not directly reflect the peak pressure. The is complicated by differences in powders which produces different peak to muzzle pressure ratios for the same velocity. Below is an example of two fictional powders, one fast and one slow, that produce the same velocity. You can see the difference in the peak values. The slow powder has a larger charge weight, so it produces more pressure near the muzzle, and depends on that added late-barrel acceleration to achieve the same velocity as the fast powder did, but without as high a peak pressure.

FAST%20v%20SLOW%202015-03-05_16-22-42_zpsqxesua3d.gif


The above means you cannot measure pressure based on velocity. However, if you are using the exact same powder as a commercial pressure test does, then comparing velocity, if you know your chronograph is accurate, you can make a pretty good guess as to whether your gun is producing higher or lower pressure than the test gun did. You just won't know by exactly how much.

As to reading pressure ring expansion (PRE) and case head expansion (CHE), its like trying to use a copper crusher without a tarage table of calibration. Copper crushers are already pretty inconsistent, which is why reference loads are fired to calibrate against them. But brass doesn't even have exact shape consistency, much less calibrated hardness.

Denton Bramwell did this piece on test the PRE and CHE systems and found that as compared to a strain gauge measurement of the pressure, something that is very consistent, the exact same amount of expansion on two cases from the same lot and with the same load history, could happen at pressures almost 2:1 different in magnitude. The only saving grace is it appears that if you average a larger sample of those nearly identical cases at the same load level, the average expansion is probably not a bad indicator. So figure you measure the PRE by firing ten or fifteen rounds at each load level. Then you'll know for certain whether the pressure is getting to be too much for the brass. What the value of that pressure is, though, will change with case and chamber geometry and how rigid the action is. Again, the cases are not calibrated indicators, so every time you change the case lot, the result can change and the maximum pressure you can tolerate can change.

axismatt said:
Also, it seems to me that over the last 30-40 years, the max loads listed are getting smaller. .357 mag used to be WAAAAY more powerful in the 80's. That said, I think you could ease past modern max listings and still me safe.
Today 09:36 AM

SAAMI data is unchanged, as the difference you see in CUP and psi are artifacts of the measuring system differences and are simply the readings those two systems give the same lot of reference ammo. But assuming you are referring to published data, yes, that reduction has been the trend because nobody used to test their data in pressure guns. It was all loads developed in commercial firearms whose chambers and bores often were not as tight as a SAAMI standard test barrel, so they produced lower pressures. But not everyone's gun is as loose or as strong as some of their load development guns were. There is a starting load for .44 Special in the old Hornady #2 manual, developed in a larger frame gun that was already at maximum for my light Charter Bulldog. They just weren't concerning themselves with being compatible in all guns out there in those days. I quickly shot the throat out of my first Dan Wesson barrel using some of the old Hornady and Speer manual loads.

Today, Speer still develops loads in production guns, same as Hornady and Sierra do, but since they and Alliant are co-owned by ATK, Speer gets their developments pressure tested by Alliant after the fact, and modify any that go over SAAMI standards. Hornady and Sierra have opted, to judge from their data, to simply knock their developed maximums down by a generous safety factor, and that's how they avoid problems like I had with the old .44 Special load. In this increasingly litigious society, that's become a concern for them.
 
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