Redneck_Riot
New member
Need advice on best safe for under 2000.00 needs capacity of 35-50 guns don't care about looks mainly for security
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best safe reccomendation to hold 40 guns for undet 2k
- Thread starter Redneck_Riot
- Start date
Redneck_Riot
New member
Agreed however my budget for a safe currently is far
less than 40k. I appreciate your info and will check out your link.
less than 40k. I appreciate your info and will check out your link.
Redneck_Riot
New member
Anyone in the Washington Seattle area know where I can get the best deal for a secure gun safe looking to purchase this weekend
Mike In Charleston
Inactive
Those pesky budgets can be a problem. I got one listed as 21 gun from Tractor Supply Company and their next size up was a 36 gun safe. These are Cannon and fit my needs. I didn't check to see if Seattle had a store but they should have a store locator on the site.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/safes/
http://www.tractorsupply.com/safes/
Champion Safe Co.
Just bought a Champion--it had longer burn times, the weight we wanted, and a decent price. Check them out online: http://www.championsafe.com/ Bought mine at Shooter's Choice in Columbia, SC, picked it up, placed it, and bolted it down myself. They knocked $50 off to get to my price point, and I have two dessicant canisters and the bullfrog VCI. So far, so good. Worth the money, and worth the time. Go mechanical lock and good steel. In short, you get what you pay for. We've had cases in our rural area of chainsaws being used on exterior walls to cut out behind a safe (often the chainsaws are taken from the same property), a truck is parked outside (fences have been taken down), and the safe is merely tipped into the truck and gone in 10 minutes or less. We've a modular, and the safe is bolted w/ a mixture of grade 5 bolts and others to the I-beams. Also, don't leave ammo in the safe. In a fire, cookoffs can destroy guns easily (esp. in multi-story burns). Hope this helps, though there's enough info. on safes online with a thousand perspectives to cause headspin.
Just bought a Champion--it had longer burn times, the weight we wanted, and a decent price. Check them out online: http://www.championsafe.com/ Bought mine at Shooter's Choice in Columbia, SC, picked it up, placed it, and bolted it down myself. They knocked $50 off to get to my price point, and I have two dessicant canisters and the bullfrog VCI. So far, so good. Worth the money, and worth the time. Go mechanical lock and good steel. In short, you get what you pay for. We've had cases in our rural area of chainsaws being used on exterior walls to cut out behind a safe (often the chainsaws are taken from the same property), a truck is parked outside (fences have been taken down), and the safe is merely tipped into the truck and gone in 10 minutes or less. We've a modular, and the safe is bolted w/ a mixture of grade 5 bolts and others to the I-beams. Also, don't leave ammo in the safe. In a fire, cookoffs can destroy guns easily (esp. in multi-story burns). Hope this helps, though there's enough info. on safes online with a thousand perspectives to cause headspin.
Redneck_Riot
New member
Thanks allot for the informaton all it's the reason I love this site.
You could build your own...
You'd basically build a box with a door out of 2x4/2x6 frame (you could use a steel frame if you have welding skills) and affix multiple layers of 3/4" sheetrock. Most safe companies use sheetrock panels inside steel "shells" for their safe walls/doors b/c of its low rate of heat transfer.
If you have considerable welding experience, you could do the same thing using regular cold-roll steel for high fire protection and security.
If not, then the "shell" which effectively "sandwhiches" the sheetrock could be constructed of concrete board (DUROCK makes some of the best stuff out there).
The problem of course lies within the joints of the structure. You would have to stagger the layers of sheetrock with tape and joint compound in between all joints to maintain fire protection. You would also have to stagger the layers of the door for the same reason.
You can make it as secure as you like, depending on your level of welding/cutting skill. You will want to enlist the help of a couple of buddies if you are lacking in the necessary skill sets to complete this type of project.
Most will opt to just buy a safe, but I like doing things the hard way... It allows me to have a secure safe that is protected against fire or theft just as well as any safe I could not afford to buy, while having all the features that again, I probably couldn't afford.
You'd basically build a box with a door out of 2x4/2x6 frame (you could use a steel frame if you have welding skills) and affix multiple layers of 3/4" sheetrock. Most safe companies use sheetrock panels inside steel "shells" for their safe walls/doors b/c of its low rate of heat transfer.
If you have considerable welding experience, you could do the same thing using regular cold-roll steel for high fire protection and security.
If not, then the "shell" which effectively "sandwhiches" the sheetrock could be constructed of concrete board (DUROCK makes some of the best stuff out there).
The problem of course lies within the joints of the structure. You would have to stagger the layers of sheetrock with tape and joint compound in between all joints to maintain fire protection. You would also have to stagger the layers of the door for the same reason.
You can make it as secure as you like, depending on your level of welding/cutting skill. You will want to enlist the help of a couple of buddies if you are lacking in the necessary skill sets to complete this type of project.
Most will opt to just buy a safe, but I like doing things the hard way... It allows me to have a secure safe that is protected against fire or theft just as well as any safe I could not afford to buy, while having all the features that again, I probably couldn't afford.
Please post pics of one of your homemade safes...jgcoastie said:You could build your own...
You'd basically build a box with a door out of 2x4/2x6 frame (you could use a steel frame if you have welding skills) and affix multiple layers of 3/4" sheetrock. Most safe companies use sheetrock panels inside steel "shells" for their safe walls/doors b/c of its low rate of heat transfer.
If you have considerable welding experience, you could do the same thing using regular cold-roll steel for high fire protection and security.
If not, then the "shell" which effectively "sandwhiches" the sheetrock could be constructed of concrete board (DUROCK makes some of the best stuff out there).
The problem of course lies within the joints of the structure. You would have to stagger the layers of sheetrock with tape and joint compound in between all joints to maintain fire protection. You would also have to stagger the layers of the door for the same reason.
You can make it as secure as you like, depending on your level of welding/cutting skill. You will want to enlist the help of a couple of buddies if you are lacking in the necessary skill sets to complete this type of project.
Most will opt to just buy a safe, but I like doing things the hard way... It allows me to have a secure safe that is protected against fire or theft just as well as any safe I could not afford to buy, while having all the features that again, I probably couldn't afford.