Best Product To Remove Lead From Bore ?
- Thread starter ConRich
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
What virtually all older revolver and auto match shooters used: The Lewis Lead Remover.
There are other methods, some of which can damage the barrel. The Lewis has been around at least 50 years, and hasn't harmed a gun yet.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=21587&title=LEWIS+LEAD+REMOVER
Order extra brass screens.
This will safely pull the lead right out, and is the only good way to clean the forcing cone on revolvers.
There are other methods, some of which can damage the barrel. The Lewis has been around at least 50 years, and hasn't harmed a gun yet.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=21587&title=LEWIS+LEAD+REMOVER
Order extra brass screens.
This will safely pull the lead right out, and is the only good way to clean the forcing cone on revolvers.
Dave Haven
New member
^ +1.
Ausserordeutlich
Moderator
Googolplexo!
Thanks for all the replies to my question. Everyone seems to agree that the Lewis Lead Remover is the way to go. Could you explain how it is used and how it works? I did go to the link provided by Dfariswheel but the item is out of stock and no information about how it works was offered. Thanks for the help,
Rich
Rich
Dfariswheel
New member
Here's how the Lewis works:
You insert the Tee handled rod down the bore.
For revolvers, you put a brass screen over the cone-shaped aluminum head and form the screen down over it.
The head is screwed tightly onto the rod.
The rod is pulled into the forcing cone and the rod is turned.
This cuts the lead and fouling off the forcing gone.
To clean the bore, a brass screen is formed over the brass and rubber tip.
The rod is put down the bore, and the tip is screwed tightly in place. If the tip is allowed to be loose, the brass screen will quickly tear.
The nut is BACKED OFF, and the tip is pulled through the bore and out the end.
When it comes out the muzzle it will be covered with strips of lead.
Flick the lead off with a finger nail or a knife blade.
Unscrew the tip, put the rod back down the bore, reattach the tip, and tighten the nut to compress the rubber plug SLIGHTLY, then pull through the bore and out.
Tighten the nut no tighter than you have to to expand the rubber plug JUST a little.
Repeat several times to remove all the lead, then brush the bore with a brush and solvent to finish cleaning it.
You can also clean revolver chambers with the Lewis tool, but a bronze chamber brush is faster.
You insert the Tee handled rod down the bore.
For revolvers, you put a brass screen over the cone-shaped aluminum head and form the screen down over it.
The head is screwed tightly onto the rod.
The rod is pulled into the forcing cone and the rod is turned.
This cuts the lead and fouling off the forcing gone.
To clean the bore, a brass screen is formed over the brass and rubber tip.
The rod is put down the bore, and the tip is screwed tightly in place. If the tip is allowed to be loose, the brass screen will quickly tear.
The nut is BACKED OFF, and the tip is pulled through the bore and out the end.
When it comes out the muzzle it will be covered with strips of lead.
Flick the lead off with a finger nail or a knife blade.
Unscrew the tip, put the rod back down the bore, reattach the tip, and tighten the nut to compress the rubber plug SLIGHTLY, then pull through the bore and out.
Tighten the nut no tighter than you have to to expand the rubber plug JUST a little.
Repeat several times to remove all the lead, then brush the bore with a brush and solvent to finish cleaning it.
You can also clean revolver chambers with the Lewis tool, but a bronze chamber brush is faster.
Back in the 60's I used mercury to get lead out of the bore. It worked very well. I would plug the barrel at the cylender and pour mercury down the bore to the muzzle then place the gun in a stand I built. The mercury would simply amalgamate with the lead and remove it from the bore. Well, that was then, not now. Had most of us know the dangers of mercury we probably wouldn't have used it, regardless of how well it worked.
That said,, LEWIS is the way to go.
That said,, LEWIS is the way to go.
Hoppe's makes the same general kit, just not as nice of quality ($6 compared to $25). Regardless, it does the same thing. For some reason they can be hard to locate though. Here's one source:
http://www.gtdist.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PartNumber=HOP-LR135
P.S. - here's a site that also offers some instruction on the Lewis Lead Remover, along with a few decent pics:
http://www.lasc.us/RangingShot14-9.htm
http://www.gtdist.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PartNumber=HOP-LR135
P.S. - here's a site that also offers some instruction on the Lewis Lead Remover, along with a few decent pics:
http://www.lasc.us/RangingShot14-9.htm
Harry Bonar
New member
lead
Sir:
One other thing; make sure that the leade in the chamber is cut with the long taper for the bullet. Mine, with all bbls., from factory to Bar-Sto and Kart cuts that leade - without changing headspace. When using it you can fell it cut the taper into the rifling, and will then hit the end of factory chamber for the mouth of the case - this helps somewhat!
Harry B.
Sir:
One other thing; make sure that the leade in the chamber is cut with the long taper for the bullet. Mine, with all bbls., from factory to Bar-Sto and Kart cuts that leade - without changing headspace. When using it you can fell it cut the taper into the rifling, and will then hit the end of factory chamber for the mouth of the case - this helps somewhat!
Harry B.
Want something cheaper than a Lewis Lead Remover? Buy some copper "Chore Boy" scouring pad from your supermarket. Get the soapless one. Cut a piece of the copper pad and wrap it around a worn bronze bristle brush. That'll cut the copper muy pronto. I stoped using the Lewis Lead Remover when I learned about Chore Boy (and no, I don't have any stock in it either).
I'm with Gary 100%. I used to use LLR religiously on my barrels. Then out of desperation, when it didn't work on a badly leaded barrel, I tried Chore Boy. I haven't bought those brass patch packs in 3 years. I've cleaned out a barrel that didn't have lands and grooves for the first 2" with Chore Boy, and it cleaned the barrel in 40 seconds. It's WAY cheaper, and 5x faster. A 3 year supply cost me a whole $1.79.
Try it once, you'll never go back.
Try it once, you'll never go back.
Gary, are you referring the copper "chore boy" that looks like a bunch of copper strands that are all coiled up? If so, I don't see how that can replace the LLR tool. On the other hand IF you're referring to a copper "chore boy" that is a "flat" piece of copper, then that would make sense, but I have been unable to find a product like that in my local grocery store. Also, I have not seen, or heard of, a copper chore boy that is impregnated with soap.
Reason I'm asking all the questions is that I too have a horrendous problem with leading in all of my revolvers and am growing weary of scrubbing, brushing, scrubbing, brushing, and then using the "Lead Away" patches, then starting the process all over again and still not getting all of the lead out.
If you could clarify more precisely what the chore boy looks like, then I could pick one up and get rid of the pesky lead in the bores of my guns.
Thanks.
Reason I'm asking all the questions is that I too have a horrendous problem with leading in all of my revolvers and am growing weary of scrubbing, brushing, scrubbing, brushing, and then using the "Lead Away" patches, then starting the process all over again and still not getting all of the lead out.
If you could clarify more precisely what the chore boy looks like, then I could pick one up and get rid of the pesky lead in the bores of my guns.
Thanks.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Johnjay
Yes, the coiled copper Choreboy pads.
Bill
Yes, the coiled copper Choreboy pads.
Bill
Ok,
This is half heartedly in jest, but serious as well.
First off, I use a Lewis lead remover. I shoot somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds a month out of my cowboy (Ruger) revolvers and rifle (sometimes more). The Lewis lead remover is the only way to get the ring out of the forcing cone and first inch of barrel,,,other than what I am going to suggest.
After about 300 rounds, leading does become a problem. Some folks suggest shooting fullhouse 357 rounds to clean them up. I just don't agree with this method. I would rather just use the Lewis tool. But, I have found that a few, just a few, fullhouse black powder rounds will clean up any and all leading that might be plaguing the guns. Then, the BP fouling is much easier to clean than the lead. You might try that. Load up a few compressed BP rounds to clean out the lead and then soak the barrel and scrub it well to clean out the BP. At least you wouldn't have to invest in a LL?
Just an off the wall suggestion.
Hank
This is half heartedly in jest, but serious as well.
First off, I use a Lewis lead remover. I shoot somewhere between 500 and 1000 rounds a month out of my cowboy (Ruger) revolvers and rifle (sometimes more). The Lewis lead remover is the only way to get the ring out of the forcing cone and first inch of barrel,,,other than what I am going to suggest.
After about 300 rounds, leading does become a problem. Some folks suggest shooting fullhouse 357 rounds to clean them up. I just don't agree with this method. I would rather just use the Lewis tool. But, I have found that a few, just a few, fullhouse black powder rounds will clean up any and all leading that might be plaguing the guns. Then, the BP fouling is much easier to clean than the lead. You might try that. Load up a few compressed BP rounds to clean out the lead and then soak the barrel and scrub it well to clean out the BP. At least you wouldn't have to invest in a LL?
Just an off the wall suggestion.
Hank