Best preservative for metal stored in lousy conditions?

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ScottRiqui

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What's a good long-term preservative for metal parts that are going to be stored in less-than-ideal conditions?

My Dillon Super Swager is mounted to a bench in an attached studio to our house. The studio isn't climate-controlled, so humidity, heat and cold are all factors. Every few months, I'll see surface rust blooms forming on the swaging pin and the handle. I clean it off with steel wool and apply WD-40 or CLP, but the rust always comes back a few months later.

Should I just slather on some kind of grease, and wipe off the grease before I use the swager each time?
 
This first link is pretty cool and will give you a good idea what to use . I have some of the corrosionX and at $20 for 16oz is not a bad pice (amazon ).It seems to work but I live in a nice area and rust is not a big issue if just the basic care is given . There is also a CLP collectors grade that is for long term storage . I have some of that as well . It is a little thicker then normal CLP not sure if that is all the difference there is or not .

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=457915&highlight=corrosionx

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420358&highlight=corrosionx

PRODUCTS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009GYRWW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SB0KPC/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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For something you're going to be using periodically, try Break Free Collector oil. It's easy to wipe on and off and is excellent at preventing rust.
 
When selecting any anti rust agent, one must always remember that petroleum based preservatives can cause a primer to malfunction.

If you use these type materials they must be throughly cleaned before using your presses.

We used to use WD 40 to desensitize primers and detonators. With some primer mixes it will actually kill the composition.
 
Try some "Magic Wrench ": "Jet Lube"

I started using it at work, spray on or liquid brush on, it seems to stay on a very long time without evaporating..
it also is food safe and 'green'
 
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For items not handled much use Renaissance Wax. Developed by the British Museum, it is PH neutral, microcystellene (sp) and may be applied to metal, wood and leather. Vit is used worldwide by museum conservators.

If you're going to use the object, get RIG and rub it in.
 
I used to keep my tools in a locked unheated garage separate from the house. In the spring, the cold concrete floor would condense moisture from the warm humid air, and it would be swimming. So were my tools.

It's no different than having a glass of iced tea on the deck in August, it will condense moisture. H2O + Fe = Rust.

My tools are now sitting in a semi heated basement - but we dump the dryer vent in there in the winter to help keep the house warm. Same problem, too much moisture in the air, and cold metal. As long as I use the tools enough and keep them wiped down with any sort of lubricant, rust is held to a minimum.

What the military does is simple. All weapons armories are climate controlled, and have a serious dehumidifier in them. Keeping metal at a specific temp prevents it condensing, and removing the moisture does the rest. No amount of lubrication will do as well as keeping the object at a stable temperature in a dry atmosphere. That is the real preventative.

I'm planning buying reloading gear, and the better answer for me is to construct a small room in the corner of the basement, connected to the HVAC, that can store all the gear and bench appropriately. It will likely also enclose the hot water heater to get it out of the 45 degree temps in there during the winter. That will control humidity, and secure it from unauthorized access, too.

As long as there are things made from steel, it will rust.
 
I clean it off with steel wool and apply WD-40
Click to expand...

That's one of the problems right there. I've seen several rust tests over the years where they used various types of steel plates. Cleaned each one, then each one got something different applied to it. Then the plates were put outdoors for some length of time. One of the really interesting things was that WD-40 treated steel actually rusted _faster_ than totally untreated steel!

You are cleaning all the corrosion off the steel and leaving a totally exposed surface. Then spraying it with WD-40 which removes anything that might still be there. Once it evaporates, it is just a big hunk of naked metal waiting for the rust to move in.

There are two varieties of Rem Oil. One is just a generic spray can which is fine for the first pass cleaning of a gun. I use it all the time when I first bring a really dirty gun home. Stick the straw on it and hose it down. Gets most of the stuff off. Then I move on to something better for the last 10% and lubrication/rust prevention.

The other Rem Oil has the same color but it comes in a manually pumped bottle, not an aerosol can. It has the initials VCI on it. "MoistureGuard Rust Preventative." VCI stands for Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor. For a reasonably priced product, it seems to work for me. Remington says it is best in an enclosed area. Like the inside of a gun safe. I keep a bottle on top of the safe for when I pull out a gun, handle it briefly, then put it back. It evaporates into the closed interior of the safe and provides protection to all the guns in there.

I mentioned those steel plate tests before? One of the products that always does well is Eezox. You can buy it at Midway. That's probably what you need for your application. It leaves a hard surface coating after the carrier evaporates. It works for me!

Gregg
 
I used to keep my tools in a locked unheated garage separate from the house. In the spring, the cold concrete floor would condense moisture from the warm humid air, and it would be swimming. So were my tools.
Click to expand...

One of my safes is still in that situation. I've never had any real rust issues in that safe despite a wet concrete floor. That is at least partly because of the GoldenRod in the floor of the safe. Just a few degrees warmer in the safe makes a big difference.

Gregg
 
I've seen several rust tests over the years where they used various types of steel plates. Cleaned each one, then each one got something different applied to it. Then the plates were put outdoors for some length of time. One of the really interesting things was that WD-40 treated steel actually rusted _faster_ than totally untreated steel!
Click to expand...

You must have missed this one:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=...nic__Knowing_the_Limits_of_Rust_Preventatives

Perhaps you could provide a link to yours.
 
"Corrosion X" is very effective, it is quite popular in the marine environment. It keeps salt spray from destroying electical connections and exposed metal on boats.
 
CRC Corrosion Inhibitor just plain works.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B0000AXYA0

From 2007's Powerboat Reports:
CRC Corrosion Inhibitor
CRC Heavy-Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, which is seemingly identical in appearance and performance to CorrosionPro Lube, is made for saltwater use. It claims to protect and preserve metal surfaces subject to salt spray and high humidity. It comes out as a fine spray with a thick coating.
The freshwater test strip still had a sufficient coating and no rust after seven days. It was equally impressive in the saltwater test: coating intact and no rust after eight days.
Bottom Line: Excellent performance. It lives up to its claims.
 
I have had really good luck with Eezox, as a rust preventative it is the best I have found that isn't a grease. I had numerous mags for a pistol that would get surface rust if you looked at them funny or had a shoelace untied, this put an end to that. Basically anything metal in my house used to get some slight surface rust, especially in the summertime with all the humidity. Since I discovered Eezox I have used it on everything like reloading equipment, tools, snowblower, etc and nothing has gotten rust. Maybe once/twice a year I'll re-apply depending on how much use that item sees and how bad the conditions the item is stored in. I prefer using this over a grease simply because this leaves a layer of protection on the item but doesn't require me to clean anything off before using it.
 
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