I know it probably makes no difference but it can't hurt to ask anyway... Is there a 'best' spray paint for marking an AR500 steel gong? It will be mostly for .308 & 300WM between 4-600 yards, and maybe a 50 bmg (ball ammo) now and then. I'm looking for something that will take a decent amount of hits before I have to go downrange & repaint. Would engine block/ high temp work better than Krylon or is it just wishful thinking?
Best paint for steel gong
- Thread starter brmfan
- Start date
steel target paint
It isn't the paint, it's in how it's applied.
My wife and I have discovered that inviting young energetic fellows to shoot with us fixes the paint issue. When we see that the steel is not just right, we ask if the young folks would mind running out there and give it a spray. Young folks like to run, and they don't seem to mind going any distance.
The down side. Yeah, you knew that there was one didn't you. It's feeding those young folks on the way back from the range that gets expensive.
Try it, you may just enjoy watching that steel get painted a long way off.
It isn't the paint, it's in how it's applied.
My wife and I have discovered that inviting young energetic fellows to shoot with us fixes the paint issue. When we see that the steel is not just right, we ask if the young folks would mind running out there and give it a spray. Young folks like to run, and they don't seem to mind going any distance.
The down side. Yeah, you knew that there was one didn't you. It's feeding those young folks on the way back from the range that gets expensive.
Try it, you may just enjoy watching that steel get painted a long way off.
I don't know if the type of paint will make much different but I can tell you the best way to get paint to really bond to steel.
I spent several years in the auto mfg industry and can tell you what they do to get the paint to properly bond to the steel. They dipped the bodies in a chemical solution to cause a controlled oxidation of the steel before applying the paint. Now most of us don't have access to the chemicals or have a dip tank. So, what I do with all steel prior to painting is allow it to RUST. Just a fine layer and then sand the piece to even out the rust, wipe down with a a good solvent to be sure there isn't any oil residue (plain rubbing alcohol works well) and then paint the item. After that it takes a lot to get the paint to break.
I know that I don't take this much time with my .22 spinner targets and no matter what paint I have tried, it doesn't last. This spring I will take the time to do it right and see what happens.
I spent several years in the auto mfg industry and can tell you what they do to get the paint to properly bond to the steel. They dipped the bodies in a chemical solution to cause a controlled oxidation of the steel before applying the paint. Now most of us don't have access to the chemicals or have a dip tank. So, what I do with all steel prior to painting is allow it to RUST. Just a fine layer and then sand the piece to even out the rust, wipe down with a a good solvent to be sure there isn't any oil residue (plain rubbing alcohol works well) and then paint the item. After that it takes a lot to get the paint to break.
I know that I don't take this much time with my .22 spinner targets and no matter what paint I have tried, it doesn't last. This spring I will take the time to do it right and see what happens.
Rifleman1776
New member
If you find something that works, let us all know.
You are SHOOTING at paint.
Don't expect it to hold up.
I keep a spray rattlecan of paint next to the targets and respray often during a shooting session.
Only alternative I can think of is to try some of those "self healing" targets that come in blaze orange color.
BTW, are they any good? I don't understand it, seems a cf round going through them would make a hole. But, wadda I know?
You are SHOOTING at paint.
Don't expect it to hold up.
I keep a spray rattlecan of paint next to the targets and respray often during a shooting session.
Only alternative I can think of is to try some of those "self healing" targets that come in blaze orange color.
BTW, are they any good? I don't understand it, seems a cf round going through them would make a hole. But, wadda I know?
I just use cheap hardware store paint because I know it's going to need it after a long day of shooting. I don't worry about pretty or a durable finish because at range you can't tell anyway. you just need enough paint on it to be able to see it. If you want pretty you will have to paint it then not shoot at it.
Double Naught Spy
New member
Make sure that each shot hits a different spot on the target and you can prolong your time between going down range to paint. Otherwise, each impact will remove paint at the point of impact.
I shoot with guys who like Rustoleum. I use the 99 cent (now $1.09, I think) Walmart cheapo paint.
The Rustoleum covers much better, but is about 4 times the cost. In my experience, it does not cover 4 times better and the can of spray does not last 4 times as long. Rustoleum seems to become problematic when you leave the cans outside and they freeze. Walmart paint isn't bothered by freezing so long as you shake it up before spraying.
The only paint that I have found that chips seems to be brush on paint and the paint that comes on the targets from MGM which I believe may be a latex paint. Cheapo spray paint doesn't chip, in part because it is not coating the metal with a heavy layer of paint.