I am refinishing my m1 carbine stock. Now that the 10,000 coats of varnish are off of it I found that the stock is cracked in the rear the back of the receiver goes. What is the best glue to force into this crack. Elmers wood glue/ gorilla glue/ ??? I want it to be strong because once refinished she is going to get a good work out.
Best glue for stock crack
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Martyn4802
New member
I use clear two part epoxy paint, and force it into the crack with compressed air; then use surgical tubing to hold it good and tight till it sets, about 24 hours.
Martyn
Martyn
Old Gaffer
New member
West Systems epoxy can also be had at any Marine supply store. If you can't find West Systems, System 3 is also a good epoxy.
The important thing about epoxy is that if you clamp the joint too tightly, you run the risk of squeezing all the epoxy out and having a "glue-starved" joint that will be weak. If you use epoxy, wear gloves, some - but not all - people can or will become sensitized to epoxy.
If all you have is a crack running along a grain line, and you didn't notice it until you stripped the stock, I'd use a glue like Franklin Titebond and make sure you work the glue in to the bottom of the crack along its entire length/width.
I've used Titebond for decades, literally, and have NEVER had a glue joint fail.
BTW, plain old masking tape makes an excellent clamp for irregularly shaped pieces. Stretch the tape across the joint every half-inch or so for the entire length of the crack, wipe the glue that squeezes out of the joint with a damp paper towel, and let it sit overnight. I've done this for about the past 30 years or so, and I've have outstanding results.
Whatever product you use, follow the label instructions. I know it's contrary to being a guy to do this, but believe it or not, manufacturers put good instructions on how to use their products on the sides of the containers because they really want you to be successful in using their products, so you'll buy more.
All the best,
Rob
The important thing about epoxy is that if you clamp the joint too tightly, you run the risk of squeezing all the epoxy out and having a "glue-starved" joint that will be weak. If you use epoxy, wear gloves, some - but not all - people can or will become sensitized to epoxy.
If all you have is a crack running along a grain line, and you didn't notice it until you stripped the stock, I'd use a glue like Franklin Titebond and make sure you work the glue in to the bottom of the crack along its entire length/width.
I've used Titebond for decades, literally, and have NEVER had a glue joint fail.
BTW, plain old masking tape makes an excellent clamp for irregularly shaped pieces. Stretch the tape across the joint every half-inch or so for the entire length of the crack, wipe the glue that squeezes out of the joint with a damp paper towel, and let it sit overnight. I've done this for about the past 30 years or so, and I've have outstanding results.
Whatever product you use, follow the label instructions. I know it's contrary to being a guy to do this, but believe it or not, manufacturers put good instructions on how to use their products on the sides of the containers because they really want you to be successful in using their products, so you'll buy more.
All the best,
Rob
I always wondered if fiberglass resin wouldn't work really well for fixing stocks also.VERY strong, easy to sand, seeps into porus mateial very well, etc.....guess its really the same thing as epoxy basically, but thinner usually (back to the seeping into the wood a bit, point), and a lot of epoxies I've tried don't sand nearly as nicely.Just wonderin'...
You mean "Laminating resin"?
I build lots of R/C sailplanes which are really heavy and fast, and we slam them down really hard in some small landing zones. I tend to use Tap Plastics 4-into-1 Superhard finishing resin, and if I want to use it for a more structural use, I'll mix Cabosil into it, which is fumed silica. The long fibers really toughen the epoxy (sanding it after it cures is like sanding a freakin rock) though it does make it thicker, so it might compormise its ability to flow into a crack.
The 4-into-1 is thin enough to consider forcing it into a crack with syringe, which I've done. Something else to consider is that epoxy will "kick" harder with heat. I've taken things items that I really wanted to cure hard to work in my car and parked it on the sunny side of the parking lot. You can also leave it in the window, near a heater, etc.
As far as holding the parts together, when I smithed we used a large piece of surgical tubing to bind things together, which worked great.
I build lots of R/C sailplanes which are really heavy and fast, and we slam them down really hard in some small landing zones. I tend to use Tap Plastics 4-into-1 Superhard finishing resin, and if I want to use it for a more structural use, I'll mix Cabosil into it, which is fumed silica. The long fibers really toughen the epoxy (sanding it after it cures is like sanding a freakin rock) though it does make it thicker, so it might compormise its ability to flow into a crack.
The 4-into-1 is thin enough to consider forcing it into a crack with syringe, which I've done. Something else to consider is that epoxy will "kick" harder with heat. I've taken things items that I really wanted to cure hard to work in my car and parked it on the sunny side of the parking lot. You can also leave it in the window, near a heater, etc.
As far as holding the parts together, when I smithed we used a large piece of surgical tubing to bind things together, which worked great.
"fiberglass" resin is polyester resin. It is a poor adhesive to wood.
Epoxy is an excellent adhesive, but you need to get it into the crack.
To do this, warm the stock in a heated enclosure to 100-110 or so. Leave it in there for long enough to warm the stock throughout (several hours)
After the stock has warmed, mix a small batch of your epoxy (use a regular epoxy with a medium or slow hardener, NOT 10 minute stuff, it will not work using the steps I describe here)
Take the stock out of the enclosure into an environment at room temperature or even cooler (60 degrees or so).
Using a toothpick or modeling paintbrush carefully and sparingly begin to apply epoxy to the crack.
As the wood cools, it will suck air back into the crack bringing the epoxy with it. As your epoxy disappears into the crack, keep adding more a little bit at a time, until the crack stops accepting the epoxy.
Wipe up any residue on the surface with a paper towel dampened with acetone.
Place the stock somewhere at room temperature with the crack facing up so that the epoxy doesn't run out or drip on you until the glue has completely cured.
Hit the crack with some fine sandpaper and refinish the stock.
The basic idea is that you want the stock to be cooling as you apply the epoxy. This will draw the glue into the crack. If it is warming, the wood will be outgassing and it will bubble air out through the glue, keeping it from penetrating very deep.
Epoxy is an excellent adhesive, but you need to get it into the crack.
To do this, warm the stock in a heated enclosure to 100-110 or so. Leave it in there for long enough to warm the stock throughout (several hours)
After the stock has warmed, mix a small batch of your epoxy (use a regular epoxy with a medium or slow hardener, NOT 10 minute stuff, it will not work using the steps I describe here)
Take the stock out of the enclosure into an environment at room temperature or even cooler (60 degrees or so).
Using a toothpick or modeling paintbrush carefully and sparingly begin to apply epoxy to the crack.
As the wood cools, it will suck air back into the crack bringing the epoxy with it. As your epoxy disappears into the crack, keep adding more a little bit at a time, until the crack stops accepting the epoxy.
Wipe up any residue on the surface with a paper towel dampened with acetone.
Place the stock somewhere at room temperature with the crack facing up so that the epoxy doesn't run out or drip on you until the glue has completely cured.
Hit the crack with some fine sandpaper and refinish the stock.
The basic idea is that you want the stock to be cooling as you apply the epoxy. This will draw the glue into the crack. If it is warming, the wood will be outgassing and it will bubble air out through the glue, keeping it from penetrating very deep.
Recently started using Gorilla Glue on woodworking projects. Should be plent strong. wet the wood (per instructions) first then clamp. It DOES expand as it dries so expect some seepage(but it sands easily). it will also take stain quite well.
Gorilla glue = the duct tape of woodworking.
Gorilla glue = the duct tape of woodworking.
Mach II Sailor
Moderator
cracked M1 carbine stock...., 10,000 coats of varnish hummmm !
if it is impregnated with oil you got a big problem ! no glue on this Earth will hold !
if it is impregnated with oil you got a big problem ! no glue on this Earth will hold !
Wildalaska
Moderator
How we do it.
Clean.
Add Glue.
Clamp with surgical tubing.
Use alcohol to clean, gorilla or Elmers woodworking to glue. Make sure ya work alcohol and glune inside of crack
WildstickyAlaska
Clean.
Add Glue.
Clamp with surgical tubing.
Use alcohol to clean, gorilla or Elmers woodworking to glue. Make sure ya work alcohol and glune inside of crack
WildstickyAlaska