Best/fastest way to remove tar sealant from bullets ?
- Thread starter Metal god
- Start date
Pond James Pond
New member
I have been doing the same using surgical spirit or nail-varnish remover in the same way as you.
I considered pouring some into a shallow tub and then dipping the case mouthes into the fluid but, once removed, you'd need to keep them upturned until the solvent has full evaporated to avoid primer contamination
White spirit/turps would probably work too but you'd then need to clean them again because of the oily film that remains.
Either way, I hate that stage myself, so I'll be following with interest!!
I considered pouring some into a shallow tub and then dipping the case mouthes into the fluid but, once removed, you'd need to keep them upturned until the solvent has full evaporated to avoid primer contamination
White spirit/turps would probably work too but you'd then need to clean them again because of the oily film that remains.
Either way, I hate that stage myself, so I'll be following with interest!!
Pond James Pond
New member
Wouldn't the sheer pressure of the brake-cleaner jet not risk fouling the primers?
+10 on the gloves.
Brake cleaner also nasty for the environment. At least that is why I only use it when I have no other reasonable option.
If you are cleaning bullets, no need to get near the primers. Brake cleaner will evaporate off quickly leaving nothing behind to contaminate primers once you load the bullets back into the cases. If you don't want to use brake clean, you can use lighter fluid, or even gasoline/petrol as a solvent. None of those are particularly good for the environment...
When I have tar on surplus case necks I just leave it there. Doesn't seem to harm accuracy out of factory chambers at all. Tumbling the brass after the first use gets rid of anything that the hot gasses didn't during firing.
Lots of high power competitors who purchased pulled M72 match bullets just left the tar on there, it doesn't hurt anything as far as practical accuracy goes for High Power competition. And pulled bullets aren't going to win any benchrest competitions, so I don't bother cleaning them up.
Jimro
When I have tar on surplus case necks I just leave it there. Doesn't seem to harm accuracy out of factory chambers at all. Tumbling the brass after the first use gets rid of anything that the hot gasses didn't during firing.
Lots of high power competitors who purchased pulled M72 match bullets just left the tar on there, it doesn't hurt anything as far as practical accuracy goes for High Power competition. And pulled bullets aren't going to win any benchrest competitions, so I don't bother cleaning them up.
Jimro
For bullets - put into a metal coffee can pour in some xylene or MEK and swirl around and/or let soak for a little bit them pour off the solvent. Put in a tumbler with a good load of corn cob to polish up nice and shiny if needed. You do need a hotter thinner to get it off quickly though. If soaking put the lid back on but don't leave it stored for a longer period than a few hours.
For cases - use a bronze bush with a drill. Hold the brush pointing up and the case pointing down, clean as needed. If you have small residual left over then use the above solvents on a bore mop in the same manner to finish cleaning them out. The mop can be rinsed off in a small can or jar as needed.
For cases - use a bronze bush with a drill. Hold the brush pointing up and the case pointing down, clean as needed. If you have small residual left over then use the above solvents on a bore mop in the same manner to finish cleaning them out. The mop can be rinsed off in a small can or jar as needed.
Pond James Pond
New member
That is music to my eyes. The case mouthes and necks are the biggest PITA of the whole process. I only endure because it makes shooting soooo much cheaper and once they're gone, the brass seems OK quality too. Not Norma or Lapua, but OK.
g.willikers
New member
There's actually products for removing tar from the rocker panels of cars.
The kind of tar from resurfacing roads, that is.
If it's the same kind of tar, just get that stuff, as it works as advertised.
Mixed half and half with kerosene, it makes a very good general parts cleaner, too.
The kind of tar from resurfacing roads, that is.
If it's the same kind of tar, just get that stuff, as it works as advertised.
Mixed half and half with kerosene, it makes a very good general parts cleaner, too.
condor bravo
New member
It sounds like you are doing quite a few, but if only a small amount, a convenient method is to lightly chuck the bullet into an electric drill point first and twist against a piece of hand held fine steel wool.
Seems to be a bit of drift here 
OP stated he had some "pulls" to clean, not loaded ammo. My first try would be to soak them in solvent/mineral spirits and when the sealant softens, wipe each with a rag. If the solvent isn't strong enough then acetone, or lacquer thinner may work, and of coarse brake clean is a good "tool" but it evaporates rapidly and would make cleaning a one at a time task...
OP stated he had some "pulls" to clean, not loaded ammo. My first try would be to soak them in solvent/mineral spirits and when the sealant softens, wipe each with a rag. If the solvent isn't strong enough then acetone, or lacquer thinner may work, and of coarse brake clean is a good "tool" but it evaporates rapidly and would make cleaning a one at a time task...Correct , I'm just doing projectiles . I have 200 of them right now so that's a lot to me when cleaning one at a time . I've cleaned about 70 of them over a few days and was just hoping there was a better way . I can and likely will get more so knowing a better/best way to do this will help .
I've been using Acetone rather then any spirits because many spirits and other solvents have oils in them . I do not want to have to clean them again . I like the idea of MEK . I've not used that stuff in quite some time but if memory serves , that stuff is kick butt .
As for necks of cases . If the ammo is/was so old as to need pulling . I'd scrape both powder and primers . At least that's my understanding as to where these bullets came from . The lot was so old that pulling them and scraping the powder and primers keeping the brass and bullets was the best option .
I've been using Acetone rather then any spirits because many spirits and other solvents have oils in them . I do not want to have to clean them again . I like the idea of MEK . I've not used that stuff in quite some time but if memory serves , that stuff is kick butt .
As for necks of cases . If the ammo is/was so old as to need pulling . I'd scrape both powder and primers . At least that's my understanding as to where these bullets came from . The lot was so old that pulling them and scraping the powder and primers keeping the brass and bullets was the best option .
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Greg Mercurio
New member
For those of you overly concerned about the effects of solvent use on the atmosphere, you really needn't worry all that much. Consider a pint of fluid evaporating into 4.2 billion cubic kilometers of our atmosphere as a trillion times smaller than a flea fart in in a blimp hangar.
I'm not saying to ignore it, or be profligate in the use of it, but let's be real about it.
If you're super-concerned about solvents, swab the case necks with olive oil and a q-tip, let them sit for a few days then wipe out with an alcohol wet q-tip.
Same for the bullets, but you can just pour olive oil on them and let them sit in a pan.
I don't understand why, but for some reason, olive oil just melts tar.
I'm not saying to ignore it, or be profligate in the use of it, but let's be real about it.
If you're super-concerned about solvents, swab the case necks with olive oil and a q-tip, let them sit for a few days then wipe out with an alcohol wet q-tip.
Same for the bullets, but you can just pour olive oil on them and let them sit in a pan.
I don't understand why, but for some reason, olive oil just melts tar.
Greg Mercurio
New member
Acetone is not good for people, liver affected if memory serves. MEK is way worse. Both are skin absorption capable, both have very low vapor points so inhalation is guaranteed. Chemical resistant gloves are required as is a good sealing solvent filter mask.
Don't screw around with solvents unless you get the MSDS with them. They are all available on line.
Don't screw around with solvents unless you get the MSDS with them. They are all available on line.
Yea You guys are over thinking what to use.
I recently picked up a spray can with a plastic straw of Winchester Gun/Wash. It has no noticeable or objectionable smell and it works for cleaning all around the gun room.
For cleaning cases I put a small amount on a rag and it wipes every thing off and protects from corrosion.
With winter here I avoid the outdoors for simple cleaning that can be done inside.
It wouldn't hurt to crack a window when ever using any solvents in doors.
When all else fails try reading the directions. For your own good.
I recently picked up a spray can with a plastic straw of Winchester Gun/Wash. It has no noticeable or objectionable smell and it works for cleaning all around the gun room.
For cleaning cases I put a small amount on a rag and it wipes every thing off and protects from corrosion.
With winter here I avoid the outdoors for simple cleaning that can be done inside.
It wouldn't hurt to crack a window when ever using any solvents in doors.
When all else fails try reading the directions. For your own good.
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Greg
If I only cared when I was younger . I was a professional house painter for many years and had my share and a few others share of exposure . I remember stripping stained wood with paint stripper and lacquer thinner . No gloves or respirator .
I remember one job the stain guy blasted all the door hinges of a commercial building we were doing . I cleaned all the hinges by soaking them in MEK then wiping them down . Again no gloves or respirator .
That was 20+ years ago and I'm sure I had a few that were as bad later but those stick out in my mind because I remember what that did to my hands . Dried them out to the point of having large painful cracks .
Things we do when we think nothing can harm us .
Longshot :
This stuff on the bullets is like dried roofing tar . Would that cleaner remove that kind of material ?
If I only cared when I was younger . I was a professional house painter for many years and had my share and a few others share of exposure . I remember stripping stained wood with paint stripper and lacquer thinner . No gloves or respirator .
I remember one job the stain guy blasted all the door hinges of a commercial building we were doing . I cleaned all the hinges by soaking them in MEK then wiping them down . Again no gloves or respirator .
That was 20+ years ago and I'm sure I had a few that were as bad later but those stick out in my mind because I remember what that did to my hands . Dried them out to the point of having large painful cracks .
Things we do when we think nothing can harm us .
Longshot :
This stuff on the bullets is like dried roofing tar . Would that cleaner remove that kind of material ?
Greg Mercurio
New member
Metal God: We all did those silly things when we were uneducated (young and dumb). I wish I had a buck for every VW brake drum I blew off with an air hose, etc.
Try the olive oil. It works. Let them soak overnight. A friend used a few gallons to dissolve the 30+ year old tar from the inside of a BMW trunk.
If forced to go the solvent route, a baby food jar with tight lid and an over night soak in acetone will also work. A little agitation now and then wouldn't hurt.
Try the olive oil. It works. Let them soak overnight. A friend used a few gallons to dissolve the 30+ year old tar from the inside of a BMW trunk.
If forced to go the solvent route, a baby food jar with tight lid and an over night soak in acetone will also work. A little agitation now and then wouldn't hurt.
Two reasons :
1) I'm not seating them as deep as they were originally seated . That leaves some tar exposed .
2) The tar gets stripped off the bullet a little during seating and leaves gunk at the case mouth . Unlike if it's in the neck of the case where it just gets pushed in deeper .
and
3) although not a big deal with these bullets , I want a consistent bullet hold and release .
To be honest , I don't really know if any of that is true . The first batch I bought from this guy all the bullets were cleaned . So I already have a load I like for them and the bullet is not seated to the cannelure/crimp groove .
It also seems reasonable that the tar would get stripped off when I seat them so I'm not taking the chance .
FWIW , I now have 20 of them soaking in olive oil ( extra virgin )
1) I'm not seating them as deep as they were originally seated . That leaves some tar exposed .
2) The tar gets stripped off the bullet a little during seating and leaves gunk at the case mouth . Unlike if it's in the neck of the case where it just gets pushed in deeper .
and
3) although not a big deal with these bullets , I want a consistent bullet hold and release .
To be honest , I don't really know if any of that is true . The first batch I bought from this guy all the bullets were cleaned . So I already have a load I like for them and the bullet is not seated to the cannelure/crimp groove .
It also seems reasonable that the tar would get stripped off when I seat them so I'm not taking the chance .
FWIW , I now have 20 of them soaking in olive oil ( extra virgin )
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I bought some unfired LC pull downs. So I needed to remove the tar sealant from the inside of the case mouth to avoid gumming up the expander.
I tried acetone, mineral spirits, and isopropyl alcohol. None cut the tar quickly. So I wound up getting Xylene and it cuts right through. This was primed brass, so I didn't want to contaminate the primer. Worked great using a q-tip. It is a very strong solvent, so I did the job outdoors with a breeze and work chemical gloves.
I tried acetone, mineral spirits, and isopropyl alcohol. None cut the tar quickly. So I wound up getting Xylene and it cuts right through. This was primed brass, so I didn't want to contaminate the primer. Worked great using a q-tip. It is a very strong solvent, so I did the job outdoors with a breeze and work chemical gloves.