Best broadhead

B

Bwillsonhunter4

New member
I recently shot a whitetail buck with my Jennings rackmaster compound bow set to 55 lbs Ana 29 inch draw. I was using a 350 grain (I think) carbon arrow and some muzzy fixed 3 blade broadheads but I only got about 11 inches of penatration witch I know is enough to kill a white tail but I would like more. I would like to stick with 100 grain broadheads but other then that I really don’t care if you have an idea on how to get better penetration I would like to hear it.
 
Muzzy and their trocar tip has been around a long time and always had a following of loyal bow hunters.

What Lefteye said I have to agree. I too have never found anything better than a 100 gr Thunderhead. Always a pass thru out to 30 yards can be counted on. Tried a blade made by Satellite once. Their 125 gr. Didn't like the accuracy that 125 gr gave. (Sank like a boat anchor and porpoised its arrow shaft all the way to its 40 yard target over & over.)

I shoot a Browning Mirage 70 with a 4" mongoose overdraw. Bow limbs are set too 67 lbs. Having Speed Cams._ The old girl still develops enough speed to make 60 yard shots on a paper plate and holding a tight 4-5" grouping. And too. Enough energy left to sink its arrow shaft half of its 28-1/2" deep into a hay bail at that 60 yard distance.
Being a Old school shooter. I'm still shooting Easton's aluminum 2213s camo with feathers and carbon inserts.

When carbon shafts made their debut I couldn't afford em. So all these years later. Still get'in by with the 3 doz full length aluminum bulk shafts I bought years ago. I alone cut my shafts to lengths. Fit them with those things that make them fly straight & true and deadly. For signature marks. I dip my shafts in automotive lacquer paint. No folding sticky stickers monkey business for this fellow.
I'm all about little gram weights and lots of quick.

BTW My bow set at 67 lbs has a 40 % let off. That alone will separate the boys from the men when either attempt to draw it. :D
 
With the Muzzy, I think you give up a wee bit of penetration for the advantage(?) of the trocar tip vs the NAP Thunderhead. I've used both (couple of deer each) and haven't seen the advantage(?) of the trocar "bone buster" point.
I use a Barnett Revolution pushing 425 grain 22" bolts at approx 340 fps which drives most anything clear through the average deer.
 
I like mechanicals because my poi doesn’t change. I keep Muzzys if I have to preform a finishing stick. @ $10 a head I’m stingy with the mechanicals.
 
I've been bowhunting for half a century. Have killed deer with everything from the old "Bear" fixed blades with razor inserts, Three bladed Bodkins, Zwicky fixed bladed to newer replaceable 3 and 4 bladed, to the newest combination and mechanicals. All work well when you make the shot. 11 inches of penetration is more than enough to kill most whitetails when hit right, but poor angle and poor placement might demand more. Pass thrus, especially when shot from a elevated stand, give much better blood trail. Penetration many times depends not only on distance, but bow speed, arrow weight and what one hits. Years ago when folks used recurve or early compound type bows and only shot 25 yards, heavy arrows with heavy broadheads were the rage, with the thinking the added weight gave better penetration. I knew of elk hunters that actually slid a smaller diameter aluminum arrow inside a large diameter arrow to give the shaft more weight, so it would be better balanced with a 150-160gr broadhead, would drive deeper and flex less. As bows improved we went to the "overdraw" bows to shorten and lighten the heavy aluminum arrows and still retain their stiffness. Now with the newest high speed compounds and carbon arrows, everything is about speed, with the large increase in velocity giving deeper penetration with light arrows and light broadheads.

In reality, find the broadhead that shoots the best from your bow, with your arrows and your style of shooting. Hit the deer in the right spot and the type of broadhead you use will not make a fruitfly of a difference. Make a bad hit and the same will be true. With light draw-weight bows one should avoid the shoulder, especially high on the shoulder. One also needs to realize that if you are hunting in cold weather, temps are below freezing and you have been on stand for a while, your bow is going to be considerably slower.
 
does anyone know anything about the toxic or the ocd blood therapy broadheads? i've heard the toxic really rip stuff up saw a youtube vid where a guy could stick several fingers in the exit wound and i like the ocd because it is supposed to roll off of bone but i don't know how either are. what do you think?
 
My Exoduses (100/full) have gone through most every deer bone they've hit.

And they fly the same as my field tips.

At 15 yards, though, I'm thinking you should have been able to shoot through any deer in NA with any fixed blade broadhead. Something is odd here.
 
Bwillsonhunter4, I look at those broadheads and do look interesting. I've been using Slick Trick Mag Pro 100gr with Gold Tip Pro Hunter arrow. I use same arrow and field tip 3 D comp.

I do lot of practice for heart shot and have range at the house also angle shot at the heart.

I kind of agree that 15yds you should has pass through but things happen and you got your deer. Have you shot any of your arrow over a chronograph? Shop I deal with has one set and sure help confirming if your just using something off computer.
 
broadheads

It's been maintained by others as well as myself, that a "cut on contact" head penetrates easier (read 2 blade like the old Bear Razorhead or a Zwicky, or 3 blade like the Woodsman or the old MA3) than any conoidal or truncated point. A loose test of this can be done by pushing a broadhead by hand through a taunt sheet of fabric/hide/cloth. But......

Lots of deer have been killed/passed through, with a 3 blade Muzzy and 55lbs of draw weight. My first thought is that you picked up either one or both shoulder blades. Or perhaps the arrow glanced off the spine? Did you quarter and butcher that critter yourself? If you shot through one or both shoulder blades, you have plenty of bow/arrow and I would not worry about it. My light bow is 55 lbs with a 400 gr arrow, and I expect pass throughs on the chest/ lungs, unless I hit major bone.

My second thought is that your bow is way out of tune, and the arrow arrived with significant yaw/fishtail, , or that you hit a limb with same effect. The arrow arriving skewed could really effect penetration. If you/ve not done so, I'd shoot a few paper tune shots with your broadhead combo to assure true arrow flight.

Personally, I'd avoid mechanicals like the plague. If "something" has to happen before the point can cut, than the likelihood of "something" not happening is also present. Remember our old pal Murphy? Arrowheads have been "cut on contact" (fixed) since ancient history, maybe as much as 50,000 yrs, depending on what you believe. If it ain't broke.......!!!!

Finally, I'd avoid dorking with my bow and set up 'till AFTER the season, provided all seems in order at the present time. One season, I had an injury, and had to reduce my draw weight accordingly. To keep my velocity up, I reduced the weight of my shafts/head combo as well. I thought my new arrangement was ready, but I then proceeded to miss a bunch of deer.
Turns out the new set up would not consistently group broadheads/poor arrow flight. When I was fully healed, the late season was still running. I went back to my old arrangement, and killed the next 3 deer I shot at.
 
I use Grim Reaper Razorcut ss mechanicals. I have some muzzys but I hate how they fly compared to field tips or the reapers.
 
I'm not a big bow hunter, and have only ever got one deer with a bow. But I did used to do a fair amount of varmint hunting with knives, and became thoroughly convinced ya need a blade that's very pointy, narrow, and sharp (all the way to the point, so it cuts on contact) all the way to the point. Thus with broadheads, I agree with the others who advocate for cut-on-contact points. The hide is the first thing your arrow will encounter, and it does a decent job of protecting the tender stuff underneath.

I use the Montec fixed blades, and had a complete pass through on the doe I mentioned above. But I also like the design of the old school Zwickey points. I do not care for arrows with a blunt chisel point, even though many have used them successfully. FWIW.
 
I shot my 80th deer with a bow last year. As stated above by some, you didn't get a good hit or you would have had a complete pass through with any broadhead. A lot of new archers (heck, a lot of experienced archers) don't really know where to shoot at a deer for a good shot. Any bone, high in the back, or shoulder blade shots will stop your arrow pretty quickly. Eleven inches of penetration says you didn't get a good hit. Pick a head that shoots like a field point and go with it. I've been shooting BuzzCut Stingers myself for several years. Not saying they're better, just that they fly like a field point off my bow and they're SHARP.
 
Been back to bow hunting for 4 years. Taken two doe and two bucks. My ancient Ultra Max at 56#s shoots 100 grain Slick Tricks and 100grain Slick Trick Mags like field points. Single lung doe went 40 yards, double lung buck about 30. Spine shot doe dropped, another through both lungs ended that. Shot a buck at five and a half yards this year, 25 feet up in tree. Destroyed shot side lung, he dropped in less than 100 yards. Great blood trail on the single lung doe and the double lung buck. This years buck was zero blood till he dropped, arrow tore up left lung, broke off, front part of it exited in front of right shoulder. I really like the way Slick Tricks fly, and they seem to inflict nasty wounds. Not a fan of mechanicals as I shoot low draw weight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top