Bersa Thunder 380 and 22, anyone have both?

R

redlightrich

New member
Hello all, if anyone has both, or access to both, and a micrometer or caliper, would you be so kind as to measure the outside diameter of the barrels and report the OD ?

I am considering buying one if I can occasionally change the caliber. I am aware that the barrel is a slight interference fit, and is also pinned into the frame. I do have the ability to swap this out if desired. I have seen many 380 parts for sale. It appears that some people take this inexpensive gun apart, ditch the frame and sell all other parts for 80 to 100 dollars.


I am in NJ, and obtaining permits to purchase is a process, so even though it would make little sense to do this for most people ( who live in a free state), it does make sense to me.

As always, I appreciate the knowledge and feedback from the members of this site!!!

Thank you

Rich
 
redlightrich said:
I am considering buying one if I can occasionally change the caliber. I am aware that the barrel is a slight interference fit...
Click to expand...
Don't forget to account for the breech face and firing pin.

A rimfire gun uses a firing pin that is offset from the barrel centerline in order to hit the rim of the cartridge. Additionally, a rimfire firing pin is often a chisel shape.

Unless the Thunder 22 has a bore that is offset from the barrel centerline so that the same firing pin location can be used (which has been done but is uncommon), I suspect that the slide and firing pin are different, along with various slide internals.

Additionally, be warned that interference-fit parts are categorically prone to gradually loosening each time they are removed and reinstalled; ask anyone who has ever repeatedly removed the top cover from a Walther P38, and then lost the firing pin and all related parts when the cover spontaneously flew off on firing. :eek: I'm reminded of a stern warning NOT to repeatedly and needlessly remove the barrel pin from a Beretta 950/20/21, as it will gradually degrade accuracy; I suspect that the same would happen to your Thunder. :(
 
Thank you Carguychris. I understand that the integrity of the joint will be compromised by continual removal/installation.

If I do this, I will obtain a slide for a 380 as well as the other parts. I agree and understand the breechface and associated firing pin placement. My thought was when I was converting from 22 to 380, I would be removing most everything from the frame and top end and simply adding all the 380 parts. Slide assembly complete, barrel, recoil spring, hammer spring, mag, and even the ejector would all be different.

The more I think about it, there is probably more sense in waiting an extra month and getting another permit. In NJ the process starts with State Police background check ( yes over and over), then take that receipt to your local police department ( appointments are one day a week for a 3 hour period) fill out an extensive package of papers, including 2 references, along with a hippa form, and pay 2 dollars for each permit requested ( you may ask for up to 3 at a time) sign the forms in front of a detective after presenting your ID, and wait for the call to pick them up, using the same 1 day a week window. Then you take this permit to the LGS and do the same process everyone else does, which is a NICS check ( more background check) and if approved, you can buy a pistol. The permit does double duty as it is a 4 part copy document that serves as a registration of the pistol to the local and state police. Who knows what data base the State Police put it into?

Anyway, sorry for the long winded answer. I just wanted to explain why I would consider such a conversion. NJ does not restrict caliber conversion as long as the conversion when completed is a lawful weapon and serial number is maintained.

Thanks again

Rich
 
Rich
I feel sorry for you brother. I guess the best you can do is try and vote reasonable people into office and try to get freedom back in your state.
 
Buy both People have ruined the frame trying to remove the barrel Remember the frame is a alloy .

22 like the hot 22 ammo will have problems with the standard Vol. ammo
 
I have a .22 however it is not what anyone would say is reliable rarely shooting a full mag without several failures. Even sent it back but the " repaired version" is little better than it was. Pistol is also very ammo sensitive. Bersa is not the brand i would pursue for a defensive or plinker handgun.
 
I've swapped slides on my BT22 and .380 a while back, just to see if they would fit. If I recall correctly they did.

As far as the .22 and ammo, I've only been able to get minimags to reliably feed from a full magazine, but if I only load 5 rounds I haven't had any problems with any ammo. All I can guess is the magazine spring puts too much pressure on and slows down the slide too much when fully loaded.
 
I finally found my calipers,,,

I finally found my calipers.

The outside diameter of the .22 barrel measures .507"

The outside diameter of the .380 barrel measures .507"

I also did a bit of swapping:

The .22 mag will only inert and lock into the 380 frame with the slide open,,,
Nor can you close the slide with the magazine inserted,,,
It will not insert all the way with the slide closed.

Hope this helps.

BTW, both of my pistols have been absolutely reliable.

My 380 cycles any hollow-point or ball ammo I have fed into her.

In my .22 the only thing that doesn't feed reliably is sub-sonic ammo.

I have purchased and gifted away two of the .22 pistols and one of the 380 pistols,,,
All three get fired regularly and we have seen no problems with reliability.

Aarond

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Thank you Aarond. That is exactly what I needed to know. My guess is the frame is the same, and mostly everything else is different, which works fine for my needs.

Thank you again

Rich
 
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