The F-suffix models have a well-documented problem with a false detent in the decocker/safety lever between the FIRE and SAFE/DECOCK positions. This detent is NOT meant as a "cocked-and-locked" option, and the gun should NEVER be carried in SA mode with the lever in this position, because the lever will tend to spontaneously pop back into the FIRE position.
The lever should
always be pushed through to the SAFE/DECOCK position.
This was fixed on the FS models. If you
want a cocked-and-locked option, buy an earlier no-suffix, B, or BB version.
FWIW the B and later versions, including the F, have a trigger-actuated firing-pin block for safer DA/off-safe carry. The no-suffix pistols rely solely on an inertial firing pin.
Magazine disconnects were offered as an option on all Series 81 Berettas. If your pistol has one and you don't want it, simply remove the RH grip panel and lift out the large curly-Q spring underneath it, reinstall the grip panel without the spring, and it's gone.
The mechanism works by the spring pulling down on the trigger bar and disconnecting the trigger; a little shelf on the magazine body pushes up on the tip of the spring to disengage it. (If only ALL pistols had such easily removable mag disconnects.
)
The Browning BDA 380 uses the same magazines as the 84. Mec-Gar magazines are highly recommended.
These pistols were sighted for a "combat hold" at ~5m and again at 50m. They typically shoot high at ranges in between, and this is most pronounced at 25m / 25yds. Use a 6 o'clock hold at this range. However, at typical SD/HD distances (7ds-15yds), the difference between POA and POI is basically negligible IMHO—certainly close enough to get the job done!
Series 81 Berettas often exhibit a frame battering problem at high round counts. This manifests itself in a takedown lever that is hard to turn and/or the barrel/slide assembly hanging up after moving slightly forward; in some cases, the assembly must be forcefully hammered off with a wood block or a plastic mallet. This is caused by the alloy frame becoming "mushroomed" around the guide rod channel, and can be fixed by filing down the battered metal. However, the pistol typically has to have thousands of rounds through it before this becomes a problem, and most of the CDI guns fit in the typical "carried a lot, shot a little" LE surplus category.
Speaking of assembly and disassembly, make sure you center the extractor slot in the barrel over the extractor claw when putting the pistol back together. The slide assembly can be assembled with the barrel in the wrong position, but it won't go onto the frame this way. If the slide assembly hangs up about 3/4" before the slide and frame are flush, check that the barrel is in the correct position before you try to force anything.
Hope this helps!