Bench height question

viper12161

New member
Hello all,

I recently picked up and mounted a Lee Turret press. My garage has a long bench along the wall that was already built and there when I moved in. It's great space wise for reloading. The only issue is that it is only 30" off the floor. Even sitting, I still need to bend over to fully push down the press lever. I loaded 200 rounds of the other night and my back was killing me after. I would like to raise it up a bit. I was thinking 8" to 10" would be perfect. Was thinking of using some 4x4's with brackets to hold them to the bench and then top with some 3/4" ply. Basically make a big box to attach the press too. Anyone have thoughts on this, or any other ideas? Maybe a press mount that would work? I looked at the Dillon mount and I think that said it raises the press 8", but it sounds like they only fit the Dillon presses.

Thanks!
 
I use risers on my reloading bench, as different tools work best at different heights. I just cut slabs of 2x10 and stack up as many as needed.
 
I just used a couple of boards to raise the press. I don't know my bench height off the top of my head but it's probably right at my belly button.

If using risers to raise the whole platform I'd try and keep an opening in the front so you have a built in storage space for primers, bullets, brass, etc.
 
Hmmm, maybe just some stacked plywood might work. I am not really worried about storage space in front. I have a ton of space along the back wall...peg board, trays mounted and a separate locking steel cabinet that my powder and primers live in (gotta keep em away from the little guy). Plus the bench itself is about 8ft long, so plenty of space there. I'm wondering if I can just grab a bunch of pre-cut ply slabs and stack em up. I'm up in the Northeast, so if I can avoid dragging the chop and circular saw out in the cold, I am all for it!!
 
"...8" to 10" would be perfect..." Cinder blocks. Basement wall bricks. Or a concrete deck block.(weighs 25 pounds) Former runs 8". The latter is ~10" and a 4 x 4 fits right in its top. http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building...t-Masonry-Concrete-Blocks-Bricks/N-5yc1vZboge
Or a couple lengths of 4 x 4 bolted together. Drill counter sunk clearance holes(21/32 drill for 5/8". 3/4" will do.) and buy some 5/8" bolts at Home Depot. Bolts are a lot easier to work with on thick stuff than screws. Easier to get long bolts in retail places too. Mind you, most industrial fastener shops will be happy to take your money. Possibility exists they'll just give you what you need.
"...make a big box..." That'd work. Likely best to use a 2 x 12 plank.
 
Shorter chair will put my knees into my throat. :) I am going to swing by the depot on my way home see what I can fine in regards to lumber and go from there. Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll post a pick of what I end up with.
 
"...swing by the depot..." Look at the deck blocks too. Used 'em on an antenna tripod over 10 years ago, that's still on the roof. No building.
 
Sounds like that Inline riser plus some 4" risers might be about right. I built my own benches and made them all about 41" tall (40" tall frame plus 3/4" plywood top with another 1/8" Masonite screwed to it to make a work surface I can replace easily if it gets too beat up). I don't know how tall you are, but my rule of thumb is that when I stand up straight in front of the bench and rest my forearms on it, they should be horizontal when my upper arms are straight up and down at my sides. In other words, about the height of the bottom end of my elbow when I am standing in my normal shoes and on an anti-fatigue mat.
 
One of the fun or irritating aspects of working at a bench. There is no one size fits all. Therefore you can build it to suite you, as simple of elaborate as you'd like. The biggest concern being that it is comfortable for your work. While I was working in a maintenance shop we had a number of benches that were different heights.

I now use a repurposed computer desk and chair as I have a hard time working at the press standing up for long periods of time. This desk is now at a height that I can easily operate the press, reach all my supplies and see clearly into each case before I place the projectile.

So find a position that is going to be comfortable for longer periods of time and then go at it!
 
Not that this is a necessity or any kind of absolute answer but the "standard" level for shop tables and benches is 34 inches. Kitchen tables are at 30 inches and kitchen counters are 36 inches. Desktops are 27 to 29 inches.

My reloading stations have a built-in seat that is 18 inches high and the table top is 31 inches high. They are designed to be movable when you change locations or housing as they are only 30 inches wide. They can be moved through a standard 36 inch door without having to remove the door. I don't like to stand while reloading so I designed it with a built-in seat and I use 2" foam and vinyl to cover it.

Here is a picture of one that an acquaintance built for his apartment which included the attached cabinet:
 

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After pricing the lumber, decided to go with the inline. Looks like a great product and will do exactly what I need. Thanks for pointing it out!!! Also ordered the attached bracket and trays,
 
That's a nice bench setup Shootist....I am lucky to have a bench already built, but those look really nice. Great for a smaller area.
 
And you don't have to leave them behind when you move! :)

My brother and I use them without any problems. I don't use the connected cabinet because I have overhead cabinets mounted to cleats. They are sturdy enough to form cases or swage bullets on. The table is rock solid. I use two, side by side with one set up for pistol loading and the other set up for rifle loading.
 
NOT being the sharpest knife in the drawer, took me YEARS to figure out staring with the CHAIR was the way to begin...

Something sturdy, since you are going to be applying (grunting) on the press,
Something my feet sat flat on the floor for comfort & leverage,
And something with a back rest! (Comfort!)

Then I spend about $150 on a custom height bench,
Two sheets of 3/4" plywood, a couple 2x4" for braces, a couple boxes of aggressive wood/deck screws in two lengths...

By building custom, you put the press EXACTLY where you can see the sizing/loading process,
AND,
You can apply pressure to the press handle without stopping over or stretching uncomfortably.

Worth every bit of $150 and then some for years to come!

As for commercial risers, the only real MECHANICAL advantage is you can inset the press back away from the edge of the table,
The press isn't 'Cantilevered' out over open space off the edge of the table.
This keeps you from pulling the bench away from the wall when you beat down on it.

I do exactly the same thing by insetting the press into the bench...
MUCH more stable and less movement of bench/press when it's inset,
With the added advantage of the press not being a hip or elbow buster every time you walk by it!

Let me see if I can find/load a picture...

image_zpsfdtjlssm.jpg
 
The best thing about the two sheet plywood bench is, it's 24" deep, high back makes for a LOT of shelf space for turrets, tool heads, press parts, etc.and at 24" deep X 4' long everything is within arms reach!
8 sq.ft. Of fun on a bun for cheap!

This is 1"x6" pine board, $3 hinges, shelf that tucks Turret tool heads, dies, case gauges & shell holders away together and away from damage...

Since most dies are set up in tool heads using a SPECIFIC SHELL HOLDER, I keep that shell holder with the die sets.
Brass rod makes pins for shell holders & case gauges, no scratch/no marring the precision case gauges and no rust that wooden dowel rods can sometimes bring to the table.

In larger calibers, I simply screw a case to the shelf to keep the case gauge on.

image_zpsfmvg2ldq.jpg
 
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