Belted magnum diy headspace

1972RedNeck

New member
I picked up an Interarms X (Mauser 98 copy) in 375 h&h without a bolt. Found a magnum Interarms X bolt.

I don't have go/no go headspace gauges. Any way to measure headspace on my own to see if it is within limits? Gun smith is an hour away so if it doesn't need work I would rather not make the trip...
 
A gauge set can be rented. You can also estimate the headspace with factory round plus scotch tape.

That's assuming you are going to shoot factory rounds. If you shoot your own hand loads exclusively, just size your brass to fit the chamber. Yes it can be done on belted magnum.

-TL

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Best bet

There is at least one company out there that will rent the go - no go gauges to you. Seems like the company name is two letters, google will find them quickly for you. I recall the rental being under 50 bucks perhaps well under, I think they get more for the reamers due to wear, that's what I was shopping at the time.
Since your action and bolt have never met, lapping the lugs and other fitting may need to happen for your project. Fortunately there is loads of information both in print and online for the venerable Mauser 98 action. Only thing I have not seen is how to add the wheels. Magnum Mausers tend to push the ten pound mark.
 
So I used some scotch packing tape to estimate. One layer of tape bolt closes normally. Two layers has the slightest hint of resistance. Three layers is a definite no go. Got it closed but it was really tight.

The 3 layers after I closed the bolt on them measured .009" via my dial calipers.

Good to go or needs a visit to the gunsmith?
 
Your rifle has head clearance of 0.003" - 0.006" with that particular factory round. A bit on the generous side but I wouldn't be anxious to have it fixed just yet.

Are you going to shoot factory rounds or your own handloads? That's the key.

Factory rounds at all, I would wait unless it closes with no resistance with 2 layers of tape, or when head clearance > 0.006”. Then I probably will have the barrel set back.

Handloads only, I will size the brass to fit the chamber. The brass will be headspaced by shoulder, instead of the belt. I will keep shooting till the barrel is replaced or set back for different reasons.

-TL

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Gas for an hour each way will cover a purchase cost of a gauge. Heck, you can probably rent a set cheaper but don't mickey-mouse things. Safety first.
 
Get a gauge set or go to your smith. factory ammo and tape do not a gauge make. I sure wouldn't trust my finger/face to it.
 
Belted magnum guages typically do not account for headspacing off the shoulder; at least not the ones I have. Although I've never done one; a mauser-type headspace setting of the control feed bolt I believe requires the bolt and shouldered barrel be specifically matched upon assembly.

The biggest issue in headspacing belted magnums I've encountered is that if it's too long I will have too much expansion of the case head just ahead of the belt resulting in difficulty in chambering/extraction and possibly leading to a weak point in the brass.
 
On the SAAMI drawing, case belts are from 0.212-0.220" from the head. Chambers are 0.220-0.227" from the breech face. Your first step is to set your cartridge upright on a flat surface, like a surface plate or a scrap of plate glass, and use the step at the end of the caliper head to measure how tall the front of the band is from the flat surface. That number plus the thickness of your shim would be your headspace, and it should fall between 0.220" and 0.227".

Personally, I would use shim washers or flat shim stock, so you don't have something as compressible as tape. With a solid steel headspace gauge, you stop as soon as you feel any trace of light contact of the gauge with the headspace determinant (the belt recess in the chamber for your cartridge). This is because the leverage from the bolt closing is high and can easily stretch the chamber several thousandths. Gunsmiths commonly disassemble the bolt to prevent the ejector from fooling their sense of feel about that initial light point of contact, thus getting an accurate result. With the tape, that is less easy but not impossible to do, but then you have to measure the tape thickness with that same delicate touch.

Because the corner of the belt on your case is less likely to be as sharp as the headspace gauge (no corner), you may also want to color the case with a magic marker to see where it contacts the chamber's belt recess to better see where to measure its height.

As others have commented, you can also elect to headspace on the shoulder for reloading. In this instance, you may find it useful to have one of the Larry Willis dies that squeezes the case inward all the way down to the front edge of the belt before using a conventional die to set the shoulder position. It may also be unnecessary. It will vary somewhat depending on your load pressure and the particular chamber you have. In the extreme, some folks have turned filler washers that extend the chamber's belt headspacing surface rearward to force the headspace to match a lot of brass they have. This achieves zero head clearance for the initial firing and before moving to headspacing on the shoulder. It saves thinning the brass in front of the belt by stretching during the initial firing.
 
In this instance, you may find it useful to have one of the Larry Willis dies that squeezes the case inward all the way down to the front edge of the belt before using a conventional die to set the shoulder position.
I find this tool indispensable for my large belted magnums (thanks to Bart B who recommended it); except that I would add that I use it after sizing the case.

Great advice as always.
 
Interesting concept for sizing die.

Is it ok to file down the belt to make way for a regular sizing die to going down further?

Does anyone know where the old Bart B is? Haven't seen his post for quite a while.

-TL

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Interesting concept for sizing die.

Is it ok to file down the belt to make way for a regular sizing die to going down further?

Does anyone know where the old Bart B is? Haven't seen his post for quite a while.

-TL
The sizing dies I use for larger belted mags typically require a full turn out after contacting the belt; so the lower portion in front of the belt are often missed in the sizing process--that's where the LW tool comes into play.
 
The sizing dies I use for larger belted mags typically require a full turn out after contacting the belt; so the lower portion in front of the belt are often missed in the sizing process--that's where the LW tool comes into play.
I see. It makes sense when come to think about it.

I haven't sized belted magnum per se. But I have done plenty of high-power rimmed. Theoretically it has the same issue. Just haven't come across one yet.

I guess an alternative is to send the sizing die back to its maker to have it machined deeper.

Thanks for the info.

-TL

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