Bedding the Stock and Shimming the Action on a Mosin Nagant M91/30

M

Mosin-Marauder

New member
Greetings!
Before I get started, I would like to make it perfectly clear that this is my first step into gunsmithing (if you'd even call it that.). So if anyone disagrees or has any suggestions on or for anything I've done in this, please don't hesitate to comment, constructive criticism is good!
This is devoted to anyone who is not satisfied with the accuracy of your rifle and how to improve it. Now let's get started.

First off, the materials you need are:
-Adhesively backed cork
-a straight edge or ruler
-X-ACTO knife or knife
- Large Flathead Screwdriver
-Scissors
-150 Grit and 400 grit sandpaper or any coarse and smooth sandpaper
-a lug or ratchet socket
-air compressor or your mouth for sawdust
-A steady hand

Step 1: Disassembly. (This is best done in a gun vise)
To disassemble your 91/30 for this technique, first, take out the bolt. Next, unscrew the tang screw where the metal meets the wood on your butt stock (near where the bolt comes out). Then, clamp your front sight in the vise, and unscrew your recoil bolt (at the front of the magazine). Un-clamp the sights but be careful when you do, as you now have a loose barrel. Then, clamp the wood of your stock into the vise and and remove the cleaning rod. Then slide the barrel bands off (removing the front sight is not necessary, they will rest against it ) now remove the upper handguard. It should look something like this when you're done.



Step 2: Sanding.
Using your 150 grit sandpaper or your coarse sandpaper, sand the barrel channel, utilizing the lug or socket as leverage, to minimize or get rid of any imperfections and uneven pressure points on the barrel. Lastly, after you are satisfied with the quality of the barrel channel, sand it with the 400 grit or smooth sandpaper to smooth it out. (Don't forget to blow out the sawdust!) Also, please try not to force the sandpaper or socket or sand too much, as it could split the stock.

Step 3: Bedding
Taking your straight edge and a pen or pencil, mark 1 inch marks on each side of your roll of cork. Take your X-ACTO knife , knife, or scissors to cut the inch wide strip from the roll of cork. Take the adhesive cover off the cork, then place one end near the metal end where the barrel exits the stock, then place the other near the small groove in the stock near the recoil lug, continue to press down the cork so that it fits securely in the barrel, trim any excess with a knife or scissors. Make sure there are no open spots under the cork. Make sure the cork strip isn't too long so the barrel bands can easily refitted. It should look like this.



Step 4: Shimming.
As far as shimming goes, I didn't do much. I placed an inch wide strip about 1.5 inches long over top of the recoil lug. Then, place one piece of cork over where the tang screw goes, making sure it doesn't cover up the hole.( I didn't get the measurements for this piece, as it's shape is a bit irregular). It should look something like this.



Step 5: Reassembly.
To reassemble the Rifle, pretty much just put everything back in this order. Top Handguard, Barrel bands, magazine and recoil bolt, tang screw, bolt, cleaning rod.

You're done!

Now, I hope you've all enjoyed this article and I hope it helps improve your rifle. Thank you for reading. And here's my finished product.

 
First: How old are you, really?
No 14-year-old today knows what "quasi" means.

Second: Interesting on the full-length cork in the barrel channel.

Third: You fibbed.
You do too have a bayonet.

Fourth: Does the interrupter still function OK?
Still allows you to load all five and feed all five by cycling the bolt?

Fifth: Have you fired it yet, after the corkjob?

Denis
 
Haha, I pride myself with my extensive vocabulary.

Yes, I found it would be more effective than free floating the barrel.

Yeah, you caught me, I picked up a bayonet yesterday. I (A reward for good grades)

I haven't checked the interrupter yet. I'll load some spent cases just to see if it still works.

No, it still needs to be cleaned before firing. Sitting in a coal mine for 60+ years and the negligence of the the previous owner has caused the old yardstick to develop some nasty salts on the barrel (sodium phosphate from the surplus ammo I think.)
 
Take the day off from school tomorrow & get it cleaned & fired.
Tell your parents I said it was OK.

Remember- bayonet OFF & work on the flinch. Keep your eyes open!
Denis
 
I'm not sure that would go over real well with my parents. Haha!. My dad and I are going to clean it after school tomorrow and fire it the next day. So hopefully I'll have some groups posted at 50/100 yards by friday. I'm going to be shooting 5 rounds of retail ammo at each. Then Saturday I plan on using some surplus but I don't know if I will have time to.
 
I don't know exactly, it was more or less just shooting all over the place at 50/100 yards. All were on paper at 50 yds, but 2 I didn't see at 100. So I'm hoping I at least get a 6" group at 100 yards after I work on my flinching. So, if I don't have a photo or post up by friday, I'm probably still working on it.
 
You may get somebody along shortly to advocate pouring boiling water down the bore, which does work, but it's awkward to do.

I've had good results with four or five patches sprayed in Windex with vinegar, followed by several patches soaked in a copper solvent.
Run a bronze brush through it now & then in the middle of it all.
I run a patch or two of Breakfree down the bore after that, then a dry one.

There are several methods that can achieve a clean bore, I take the easiest.

I've also used JB's bore paste on a stubborn Mosin to get the rifling scrubbed thoroughly starting out, but you probably don't have that.

Don't use a stainless brush.
Denis
 
Okay. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I've never used the windex and vinegar before but I have b used a bras brush and patches of copper solvent.
 
A thorough copper removal's more important in working with a new-to-you Mosin to get the bore ready for shooting than doing the Windex thing right now.

I'd suggest doing the good copper scrub, run an oiled patch or two through it after, at least one dry one, and then just do the Windex after every shoot for a while, if you're using surplus loads.
If no surplus, clean as you would any other gun after shooting non-corrosive commercial stuff.

No need to be doing copper solvent after every shoot, but you do need to be neutralizing the corrosive salts after every session with surplus ammunition.
Denis
 
I'll be intrested to see your groups..before you go shooting you should grab yourself a limbsaver pad (about 20 bucks at Wally World) that should help with recoil a good bit and therefore aid in your flinching problem with the rifle.honestly the flinching will be the biggest factor in your accuracy..also I'm not sure of your height but for me the lop on the mosin is way to short and makes for an awkward hold.if you have the same problem the pad will also add to the lop which in turn can result in a better hold and less perceived recoil..
 
I'm about 5'11" or 6' haven't checked in a while so I don't know, it's not to uncomfortable for me though. The groups I will be shooting will be from bench rest, considering it's at 100 yards and I can't hold it very still and still be accurate while free-handing.
 
I'm 6' also and feel so awkward holding that thing..lol.but you may have a different wing span if you feel comfortable with your hold that is good however I still strongly suggest getting yourself a recoil pad to help ease that flinch you have developed.the metal plate on the butt stock can leave anyone in a world of pain if they do any intensive shooting with it.im ussually good to about 40 rounds Anymore than that and I'm asking to be sore the next day and I pride myself on my recoil tolerance a bit but I'd rather shoot 100 3 1/2 inch 12 gauge magnums with a comfortable stock than 50 mosins with that metal plate.that is really punishing especially if you already have that bad habit picked up.so seriously do yourself a favor pick up a recoil pad and work on correcting those bad habits and your groups will improve ten fold
 
Also this is completely off subject but I am very impressed by you..for someone so young you have a great interest and passion for this and you seem very responsible for your firearms.its to bad there are not more kids your age that take such great interest and knowledge in firearms and it is a shame because society would be a much better place if more parents took the time to teach there kids about safety and knowledge of firearms instead of just feeding them bs about how bad they are..anyway you seem to have a passionate interest for doing this and if you like it enough you may be able to make a decent career out of gun smithing.
 
Thank you. I was thinking the same thing after I got done bedding my rifle. I thought " I could open up a gunsmithing shop when I get older, if I keep at it." I probably won't though. I plan on being an engineer but I'm not sure if that's going to work out or not.

My mosin was my first gun I purchased, so it's kinda special to me. I've invested a lot of hours simply Doing research on the different markings and making sure all the serial numbers match. My father is partial to his long range shooting and optics. I'm more interested in military hardware, and find them more interesting than modern rifles. That's just me, though. Thanks again for your comment.
 
They are defenetly great rifles and don't ever let anyone tell you different..you will never find a gun that is as reliable and durable as the mosin for anywhere close to there price.and every rifle has it's own history I'm sure if they could talk they would have some great stories to tell..
 
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