Bedding - How does it work?

Q-Man

New member
I understand that bedding a rifle can increase its accuracy, but how does it work?

I would think that it would simply prevent the action from making slight movements in the stock before the bullet leaves the barrel and thus making a small difference in accuracy, as the barrel would no longer be positioned to shoot at exactly where the rifle was aimed. Am I way off here?

Thanks in advance...
 
I found this from the post you mentioned and it appeared to be the only post there to deal directly with bedding:
Posted: 01-22-2000 12:34 PM
A properly done bedding job will do much better than the best factory drop in job. Not only will it perform far better but will stay performing well
because it seals the area below the action and keeps it from working as much with changes in humidity. To do a proper job is not difficult if you are
patient and not the excitable type. I have a paper on bedding the 700 I can send to you and you can adapt or if you would like we can switch to email
mode and I can walk you through step by step.

While everything in the post is all good and true, it does not address the physical interactions that necessitate bedding. Have I overlooked a more relevant post?
 
If that's all you found, it does not explain the basic problem.
The basic problem is that you have two large peices in the traditional rifle, the wooden stock and tbe metal barreled action. The two must somehow be welded together with great consistancy, a problem that is bigger than it may at first seem.
Remember that recoil starts at the moment of ignition, when the bullet is still in the barrel. All the rearward force of this ignition travels back through the metal work, then must be tranferred into the wood work and then into the shooter, who is knocked back a little by the recoil.
Since this movement starts before the bullet even leaves the barrel, the goal of accurately and precisely landing the bullet on the intended target is dependent upon all three parts of this system (four if you include the ammo), the metal work, the wood work and the shooter him or herself, being as consistant as possible between themselves from shot to shot.
The contact and attachment between the metal work and the wood work is one of the areas that all too often is a weak link in this system. Very often, there is indeed movement between the two systems and this leads to poor and eratic results in whole shooting process.
For example, in the rifles I know best, military and sporting Mausers, the barreled action is attached and transfers force to the stock at three points: at the front of the receiver, where there is a lug that overlaps the wood (on military rifles, there is a square metal "cross bolt" to help absorb that rearward force) and at two points where bolts screw it down into the trigger guard and stock, usually with about 40 to forty five pounds of pressure on the screws. The big military cartridges create lots of force and if any of these three points are not in near perfect fit to the metal work, the barreled receiver will in fact jump around in the stock and the rifle will be a very poor shooter. The fit betwen the metal work and stock might seem very firm to the hand, but still be rather loose and slopy when subjected to the forces produced in shooting the cartridge.
In additon, military Mausers normally bare on the stock at the forend and are held there by a band. This is O.K. as long as the fit at this point is good and consistant in what it does, but this is often not the case. The barrels on sproters can be either bond by a band, "free floated" (not touching in the barrel area), bare fully on the wood all the way, or be "pointed" (baring on two little bumps at the stock forend), and still shot just fine as long as consistancy is produced from shot to shot.
Even if a wood stocked rifle was originally beautifully bedded by a master stock maker, the bedding can still go bad over time. Wood stock warp, ruining the best of original work. Wood stocks also get oil soaked around the receiver and start to rot in the contact areas, making it impossible to get a good and consistant fit between metal and wood.
Synthetic and laminated stocks may eleminate most or all of the warping and rotting of traditional wood stocks, but they still need careful bedding. Manufacturing processes are not precise enough to bed rifles to the level of fit between metal and wood that is required to produce a highly accurate rifle.
I have decribed the basic problems in bedding Mausers properly. Other types of rifles present different problems and need different solutions to be bedded in a satisfactory manner.
Today we have these marvelous glass bedding techniques. They are relatively cheap and if done by someone who understands the problems and is experienced at solving them, they produce marvelous results. They are basically just letting something that is squishy and then hardens sufficiently do the the work of making a near perfect fit at the critical spots. This takes a lot of the old fashioned wood workers craftsmanship out of the equation, but the person doing the work still has to know what he or she is doing.
If a rifle does not shoot as accurately as you know it should, bad bedding is one of the first villans to suspect. It is relative cheap to redo, compared to restocking or just throwing the rifle away, and it very often solves one of the biggest parts of the rifle's problem.
 
Herodotus, thank you for that detailed explanation. Although I didn't start this thread, I have often had the same question. Now I know, thanks.
 
It is a lot harder to machine a wood stock for a perfect fit, than to mold a fiberglass stock to exactly match a rifle.

Gale, being one of the world's better target shooters as well as a tinkerer and machinist, developed his fiberglass stocks to deal with the problem of "perfect fit".

The intent is to have "system vibrations" be uniform for all shots. Note Gale's comments about free-floated barrels, and his comments about shimming at the forend tip.

Also consider that steel and wood or fiberglass expand differently with an increase in temperature; and barrels heat much faster than the adjacent wood/glass. If a barrel is not free floated, or is held by a barrel band (as on a Mannlicher stock), the pressure-change due to the contact can result in vertical strings. (Mannlicher stocks are pretty, but are Bad Things for target shooters.)

:), Art
 
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me!

It seems amazing to me that adjusting the fit between the barreled action and the stock can make a noticeable difference when the fit between the shooter and the stock would seem to be capable of introducing so much grater error.
 
Oh, rest assured, Q-Man, that person-to-gun fit is important as well! For instance, the "weld" of your cheek to the stock should always be the same. The location of the forward sandbag if benchrest shooting should be under the same part of the stock for each shot. And if you use a sling, the tension should be uniform from shot to shot.

Just keep it in mind that by and large, none of this affects hunting accuracy on deer-sized targets within 200 yards. Or coyotes within 100 yards.

The idea is that little by little, you bring both your rifle and yourself upwards toward that unreachable target called "perfection".

:), Art
 
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