Bedding Compound Removal

M

Mulder17

Inactive
I purchased a 1917 rifle that someone began to sporterize to look like a Mannlicher full stock. They put bedding compound the full length of the stock, and some is outside the stock onto the edges. I have been hand sanding with a block like crazy, but it seems like I'm not making a lot of progress. I even thought about using a palm sander. Either way, I am concerned about removing too much wood. Does anyone have any advice on removing the bedding?
 
Think I'd try cutting off the compound then sanding to get the line flat again. Or you might use a vibrating mouse type sander and using the tip, concentrate just on the compound spots. Just want to the wood getting them off. Once you have them off, then I'd probably sand everything so woop's don't show. Inside, might be alright, I'd shoot it before messing with it. I full length bedded a few of my rifles years ago in the barrel channel, worked fine. But if what you want is a floated barrel simply sand down the barrel channel until you have it floated all the way. Once it was floated, I'd check the action. Bedding an action I only bed under the front of the action and the recoil lug and the rear tang.
 
Removing bedding compound

I am concerned about removing too much wood and having the barrel sitting too high and just not looking right. I will definitely need to remove a good deal of the bedding from the end of the channel because I am installing a banded front sight and is not going to fit with that bedding material in there.
 
I had to remove Accra-Glass from a falling block forend once.
I found an aircraft epoxy paint remover at the local hardware store. I don't recall the brand.
It worked.
 
Use a chisel and a plastic mallet. Or an Exacto knife. However, if the Bozo bedded the barrel channel, the stock is toast. The stock will require cutting off and the remaining mess chiseled off.
Palm sanders are for finishing, not lump removal.
I'd be trying HiBC's paint remover. Probably before a chisel. Living better through chemistry. $10.24 per qt. at Home Depot.
Rumour has it that Circa 1867 paint remover works too.
 
The reason I was thinking about a palm sander is because the bedding material is on the flats of the stock and a flat sander would keep it flat down the length of the stock. I am wondering what kind of material it is? it is brown in color.
 
As I said,I did one job on a falling block that was glassed,then re-barreled with a slightly different contour. The shape of the forestock was not geometric and the wood was thin. The Bridgeport was not practical.
I just put the stripper on the epoxy.I let it sit a while,then scraped off the softened goo. Then another application,etc.
IMO,it worked remarkably well.
As I said,this was formulated for removing epoxy aircraft paint.
Did it hurt the wood? Not that I noticed,but I can't promise your results.
 
I have had acceptable results doing this type of project using scrapers. I don't think I would start with a sander, as it would remove wood in areas you wouldn't want, but a scraper would give you much more control.
 
Depending on how much over goo -- Agraglass can be ground down with a Dremel then final clean up with aircraft epoxy remover -- you're not gonna dip the whole stock in it -- use small rags -- then q-tips to control the amount & where --
 
A flat file . The wood is softer than the epoxy . Sandpaper , unless backed with steel or something flat and solid, isn't going to stay perfectly flat.
I start with the file. Take light strokes with the file and clean the teeth often . Just like you would draw file ... I know , files are for metal but sometimes you have to get creative and use what works . When most of the epoxy is removed, wrap the file in abrasive paper and finish up.
Good luck...Military sporters are cool !
Gary
 
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