Bedding a Ruger 10/22

N

Nathan

New member
Anybody use the Raven Eye Custom Parts?

Also, what is the best bedding strategy with a bull barrel? Looks like people are bedding the rear, take down screw and a barrel pad. Some put a bend in it at the take down screw and adjust the torque to tune?

Tips? Links?
 
Not familiar with Raven

Unless I missed something, you are still free-floating the barrel and that is what I mostly do. Now, Not sure what you are calling a barrel pad but I have seen what they are calling a Flanged Bedding Pillar. Actually these not only provide for a free floating barrel but receiver as well. Just for fun, I had my father-in-law make some out of Delrin which is a hard plastic resin. Really can't say I see much of a difference with or without but I personally don't cut these things, that fine, on 10/22's. ..... :confused:



Be Safe !!!
 
what is the best bedding strategy with a bull barrel? Looks like people are bedding the rear, take down screw and a barrel pad. Some put a bend in it at the take down screw and adjust the torque to tune?
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Bedding the first inch or so of barrel on a 10/22 is a good idea, especially with a heavy bull barrel.

I don't quite understand what "put a bend" in it means exactly, but the purpose of bedding is to give a solid, consistent platform for the action. Anything that responds to fiddling with action screw torque is, almost by definition, bad bedding and I wouldn't recommend it.
 
This is where I got my idea from...link.

I don't mind this if it works, but based on my bolt action know how and the crap action support of the 10/22, I was going to bed it where the bedding held it axially, and side to side, but the action screw held it down solid to the pillar. Sense the barrel clamp is weak, I was thinking about bedding out 3" from the lug. If it had vertical stringing, I would add another no up pressure support pad.

Then I read the link and thought I might be off base.

Fundamentally, this is a weak barrel attachment which needs some fancy bedding to over come that.

I'm wondering if just u shaped bedding support at the rear of the action and 2 pads, one at the screw and one mid barrel would be better.


FYI this is a Ruger action, Green Mtn Hvy Taper barrel ~17", in a Boyd's Tacticool stock.
 
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What kind of groups does it shoot right now, before you start fooling with it?

What kind of improvement are you hoping to get out of it?

My off-the-shelf 10/22 Target (heavy Ruger factory bull barrel) with a Kidd trigger and Leupold 6-18 scope easily shoots under .125" at 25 yards and right at .250" at 50 yards with CCI Green Tag. I can't see where bedding it would improve anything.

If I were you, I would establish the baseline accuracy of your gun before monkeying with it, then decide where to go from there.
 
Two things.....
Baseline accuracy was about 1" 25 yard groups.

This is a build now. It is basically a pile of parts. I could put it back together, mount the high power scope, but why bother. This is a ground up build, not an improvement project.

Ruger bolt & receiver
Tacticool stock
Green Mountain barrel
Volquartsen trigger assy
Vortex 8-32x?? scope
Vortex rings
Powers base
 
My routine for a 10/22 that's not shooting to my satisfaction.

1. Remove the barrel band and throw it away.
2. Modify the stock to eliminate the portion that the barrel band fits.
3. Put some bedding pads (this can be done in the normal way with epoxy bedding compound) in the stock at the back of the receiver to keep the receiver from pivoting on the main action screw and to keep it fairly snug in the stock. I've never found it necessary to do a full bedding job.
4. Put an adhesive felt pad in the very front of the barrel channel.
5. Reassemble.
 
Well, I read the RFC bedding article. I didn't notice anything about putting a "bend" in it. I did find this:

Since the action screw is between the two outer points, it will now hold the barreled action in place with no chance of movement.
Click to expand...

Which is what you want. The receiver would be resting on three points; the rear, the action screw with pillar and the barrel pad. You want the rest of the barrel free floating.

Any sort of soft pad will eventually take a set and change POI. Don't bother with them.
 
Any sort of soft pad will eventually take a set and change POI. Don't bother with them.
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I've never had a problem with them. They do compress a little initially when first shot but after a few shots they seem to settle in and shoot fine.

I suppose one could do something a little more permanent like a spot of bedding right at the front of the barrel channel if one disliked the idea of a soft pad.
 
Thanks, it's much clearer now what a "bend" is supposed to be.

It strikes me as being exactly the opposite of what a good bedding job is supposed to accomplish; a stable, UNSTRESSED, platform for the action. I suppose it gives people who are addicted to fiddling something to do, but deliberately bedding an action so you can vary the amount of stress on the action sounds like a spectacularly bad idea.

The object of bedding should be to eliminate stress so the barrel vibrates the same way every time, not introduce stress so you can tweak it. It might work well TODAY, but next week maybe not. And who wants to fiddle with torque settings hoping you find the magic spot again every time you take the action out of the stock? Not me.
 
That's generally the prevailing opinion when it comes to centerfire guns. I've had at least one custom rimfire riflesmith say that in his experience rimfires tend to shoot better with some upward pressure at the front of the stock channel than they do free-floated.
 
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