I had the freaky idea of purchasing a 458 Lott because I love 45 Cal's. I figured this would lengthen the range I get with my 45-70 and still knock a deer down. It's a ruger #1 tropical which I only paid $250 for 1 shot from being new (previous owner sore shoulder syndrome was the reason.) I had it magna-ported and am curious if there is some type of absorbtion device that can go inside the stock because I don't want to alter the stock by cutting it down for a recoil pad.
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Beast tamer in need
- Thread starter RBrush
- Start date
Since I'm new at this. Does the lead shot have to be contained in a tube in the stock or would sum type of sock work to contain it? I really wasn't looking to haul a 20 rifle around. I started reloading the 350gr bullets that I use for my 45-70 in the 458 and that helped a lot. Thanks!
Mercury recoil reducers can be very effective if properly installed. They have to be installed at an angle, and the drawbolt hole is not always at the proper angle.There are mercury recoil reducers but they're no more effective than an equal mass of lead shot, which would be much cheaper.
MagnaPorting can be effective in reducing recoil, but not generally as effective as a muzzle brake. What you have is a real beast, and a loud one at that. In order to get rid of the MagnaPorting, you would have to cut off the barrel behind the rear ports, which will cost you about 4" of barrel, or rebarrel the gun.
I was told that magna-porting would help reduce jump and recoil. I wasn't planing on cutting off the barrel or rebarreling. I'm no gunsmith. I was just looking for insight to help with recoil with out cutting and chopping the gun apart. Is it possible or does it need to go to a gunsmith?
Harry Bonar
New member
458
Sir;
If you want less blast and recoil shoot 458 Winchester magnums through it. If that's still too much don't try all of the crazy recoil reducing methods but buy a smaller caliber.
You are correct, the large bores will take deer with less meat damage than the 270 class of cartridges.
I have a No. 1 Tropical rifle in 416 Remington magnum and wouldn't dream of putting a recoil reducer on it.
I have a Ruger 77 Mark II in 375 H&H ordered and won't reduce its recoil!
African hunters from all over the world shoot Lotts and big rifles without fear. Recoil is a fact of life that you must live with with big guns.
Muzzle brakes still, even with good ear protection give you latent hearing damage - I know! And, I don't want mercury close to me, let alone in my gunstock.
Please, there are guys who would love to have that LOTT - work a trade - I'd suggest the 9.3s. The 9.3X62 is a fine rifle of light recoil for brown bear or Africa - so is the 9.3X64 - equal to the 375 H&H in energy but light in recoil.
Harry B.
Sir;
If you want less blast and recoil shoot 458 Winchester magnums through it. If that's still too much don't try all of the crazy recoil reducing methods but buy a smaller caliber.
You are correct, the large bores will take deer with less meat damage than the 270 class of cartridges.
I have a No. 1 Tropical rifle in 416 Remington magnum and wouldn't dream of putting a recoil reducer on it.
I have a Ruger 77 Mark II in 375 H&H ordered and won't reduce its recoil!
African hunters from all over the world shoot Lotts and big rifles without fear. Recoil is a fact of life that you must live with with big guns.
Muzzle brakes still, even with good ear protection give you latent hearing damage - I know! And, I don't want mercury close to me, let alone in my gunstock.
Please, there are guys who would love to have that LOTT - work a trade - I'd suggest the 9.3s. The 9.3X62 is a fine rifle of light recoil for brown bear or Africa - so is the 9.3X64 - equal to the 375 H&H in energy but light in recoil.
Harry B.
Before giving up, a couple of thoughts:
One is that of technique. Most people instinctively back away from a hard recoiling rifle, thinking the less contact at the moment of ignition, the less hurt. The opposite is true. A loose grip just gives the thing a running start to smack into you. You want to pull the gun firmly into the shoulder to maximize contact surface area and prevent it from ever getting up to speed in the first place. Make the recoil accelerate your whole body mass from the start, and not just the mass of the gun. That slows it down. Make sure you get as much buttplate contact area as you can; no holding it up so the toe of the stock is all that's touching you.
Second, if you've got a touchy shoulder or the buttplate just doesn't conform to your particular shape well enough, get a PAST magnum recoil pad to wear under your shooting coat or shirt and pull the stock firmly into that. It will distribute the impulse more evenly.
Do wear very good hearing protection with that sonic backblast. Many now put earplugs on under muff-style protectors when shooting with muzzle brakes.
One is that of technique. Most people instinctively back away from a hard recoiling rifle, thinking the less contact at the moment of ignition, the less hurt. The opposite is true. A loose grip just gives the thing a running start to smack into you. You want to pull the gun firmly into the shoulder to maximize contact surface area and prevent it from ever getting up to speed in the first place. Make the recoil accelerate your whole body mass from the start, and not just the mass of the gun. That slows it down. Make sure you get as much buttplate contact area as you can; no holding it up so the toe of the stock is all that's touching you.
Second, if you've got a touchy shoulder or the buttplate just doesn't conform to your particular shape well enough, get a PAST magnum recoil pad to wear under your shooting coat or shirt and pull the stock firmly into that. It will distribute the impulse more evenly.
Do wear very good hearing protection with that sonic backblast. Many now put earplugs on under muff-style protectors when shooting with muzzle brakes.