bean field bullet

disco, any reason for using FMJ vs a soft point/expanding bullet design? How often have you used this? placement? effects?
 
165gr Nosler, push it 2700fps with Varget devastatingly accurate, much better choice than FMJ's on animals.The new Combined Technologies(Winchester/Nosler) is also a very good bullet.
 
165grs. is about perfect for deer,better than 150's for longer ranges.B/T's have better B/C's= better accuracy.The 150's are excellant as well but for long range use the 165's better retained energy.
 
Boattails greatly reduce drag on the bullet. It will fly straighter and "buck" the wind better than a flat base bullet of the same weight. Nosler's Ballistic Tips (165 and 180 grn) have the highest B/C (Ballistic Coefficiancy) for the .308 bullets. Most manufacturers post this info on their website. You can go to biggameinfo.com to get a ballistics of any of your options. Make sure the elevation and sight height info is correct as these change things drasticlly. You'll need to enter the caliber, which is preset to .308, the weight in grains of the bullet, the ballistic coefficiency of the bullet (make sure all decimal points are in place), and finally the muzzle velocity of the bullet. You can change the settings to get a 600 or more yard range. Hope that helps.
 
What I found at my 500-yard range with a 26" '06 1-in-10 twist and Sierra boat-tail handloads:

There was no appreciable difference in trajectory between 150-grain SP, 165-grain HP and 180-grain SP.

The 165-grain made a slightly deeper dimple in the steel than the 150. The 180-grain was noticeably better than the 165, with the beginnings of a splashback crater.

My father, in front of witnesses, was on three occasions seen to kill whitetail at around 500 yards, using the 150-grain Hornady Spire Point. My longest shot, one time, was at about 450 yards with a Sierra 150-grain SPBT. DRT.

Draw what conclusion you wish...
 
I'm with Art.
I've had very good luck with long shots and 150gr bullets. Absolutly no problems at 400 yds. A thousand is a little different story.
Not sure if they would work on a bean field tho, as I am not a farmer.:)
 
Is the lead core better than a solid copper?
Click to expand...

I have no personal experience with the copper bullets as they have not outlawed lead in WY yet.Many people report very good to outstanding results with the copper bullets.I probably will not buy any unless forced,they are appreciably more expensive than lead.
I have also had the best groups shot with a 30-06 with 150gr.bullets(Nosler Partitions) as Art Eatman has indicated a little better retained energy with heavier bullets.
 
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Unless mandated by law, I don't see the point in spending that kind of money when you can get similar performance with the less expensive bonded bullets. To me those aren't necessary unless you are pushing a bullet to it's limits, such as using a 223 Remington for medium game. For deer at those distances I'd look at the Ballistic Tips/Ballistic Silver Tips, SSTs, and Accu Tips. They typically have high ballistic coefficiencies for a reasonable price. And the tips are protected from deforming.
 
I use a 165 gr. Hornady BTBT pushed by 57 grs. of IMR 4350 out of a 26 inch barrel with excellent results.
 
Its not like there is one best choice.You will be fine if you select any of a number of appropriate choices.

Most of the bullet manufacturers give a velocity range their hunting bullets are designed to perform within.

The thing to understand is a bullet that will perform perfectly from a 300 Mega-Mag at 3200 fps striking a a moose at 100 yds likely will not work so well from a more moderate 30-06 at 2800 fps impacting the target at 600 yd velocities.

So,you are shooting a deer,not a moose.Extreme penetration is not required.

Lets guess you can get 2950 with a 165 gr bullet from your 28 in bbl.

A Nosler Ballistic tip will be traveling at about 1890 fps @ 600 yds(based on sea level)

It will have about 2200 fps at 400 yds.

These are roughly the velocities a 30-30 typically works with.They will kill a deer just fine,but you do not need a tough ,thick jacket,bonded bullet.

While there are other good choices,a 165 Nosler Ballistic Tip is one good choice.
Probably the most important info you can ask your bullet manufacturer(call them!) is "What is the lowest velocity I can expect reliable expansion ?"

If you can,set out some form of wind indicators,like a fishing bobber on a string.
At those ranges,a little wind drift or 40 yds error in ranging can result in a gut shot,or a 3 legged deer.

I am not suggesting you cannot or should not do it.

But if the range is 537 yds,you can see just a touch of mirage and feel a little bit of breeze on your cheek,in 10 seconds or so,what is your hold?

What I'm wondering...It might be that you are a world class Palma shooter or former military sniper who is very competent at hitting targets at long ranges under hunting conditions,and you just aren't too sure about hunting bullet performance.Thats cool.Your question on bullet selection might make me wonder.

I hope if you are going to shoot deer at those ranges you develop the technical skills to give thedeer a quick,clean end.
 
At 500 yds....

well, that is a long way to loft a bullet at a deer or any other big game animal for that matter. One would need a very good understanding of wind and drop, etc to shoot at that distance routinely on game. And the rifle/optics and skill to pull it off. I have to ask why...........and w/ an '06?

But as an answer...an ACCURATE bullet, slick, ie, HIGH BC and, w/ the reduced velocity as a consequence from long range, known for QUICK EXPANSION.

I'd say a Nosler Ballistic tip, in 165 gr to keep velocity up.

But that still seems like a LONG way to PLAN to shoot deer.
 
Bean field

Thanks for all the Info.Why is it ok to shoot pie plates with a 223or308 at 600-1000 yards,but if you say the word deer at 400-600 with a 30-06 it a ????
 
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