Of the big names still in the DA revolver business, Ruger says dry firing is OK with all their revolvers, S&W and Taurus say dry firing is OK on all but .22 Rimfire revolvers, and Charter Arms says nothing one way or the other (Rossi is owned by Taurus so I assume that Taurus dry firing recommendations would also apply to Rossi).
As far as other handling and maintenance procedures for revolvers, as has been mentioned flipping the cylinder shut one handed is generally considered to be a bad idea as it put extra and unnecessary stress on the crane/yoke. Models with screw-in ejector rods should be regularly checked for tightness as the rods can sometimes back out when firing. One should be careful when ejecting cartridges/spent casing briskly to strike the ejector rod straight-on to avoid bending it.
The area under the extractor star should be kept clean as as a small amount of dirt, unburnt powder, or other debris under the extractor can cause difficulty cycling the action. Likewise, it is best practice when ejecting spent casings to point the barrel straight up. This allows any debris or fouling inside the chambers to fall back into the case and thus prevent it from ending up under the extractor.
Also, many people used to semi-automatics have a tendency to over-lubricate a revolver. Unlike many semi-autos, revolvers generally work best with very little lubrication. All that is really necessary or advisable is a drop or two of good gun oil on the contact points of the lockwork. Any more than that is likely to attract dirt, lint, powder fouling, or other debris to the action and or leave dried up residue that will cause issues with the cycling of the action. Beyond that, a blue or casehardened revolver should have a very light coat of oil applied to the exterior to protect the finish as one would do with any other so-finished firearm.
