Basic difference between the M&P and the M&P 2.0?

I've owned probably 6+ M&Ps since a year after they came out until about two years ago. Over that time the trigger improved significantly. I'm not sure that the M&P 2.0 has a trigger that is that significantly better than the latest M&P 1.0s.
 
Other than the trigger:
  • Minor changes to slide machining, notably a more scalloped side cutout, re-contoured ejection port, and "mini serrations" near the takedown lever notch on 9mm and .40 S&W models
  • Beavertail reduced in size
  • Different grip texture
  • Cutouts added to dust cover above tac rail
  • Serial number location changed from a plate above the trigger guard to the longer cutout on the RH-side dust cover
  • Metal chassis extended forward into dust cover to stiffen frame
  • 5" barrel now offered as a standard 9mm and .40 S&W option, rather than being offered exclusively on "Pro Series" models
  • Tactile loaded chamber indicator added to 5" models
  • All-metal magazine release
  • Lanyard hole added to takedown tool / backstrap retainer
  • 4th backstrap insert introduced ("Medium Large")
  • Slide stop redesigned to eliminate the tendency of the slide to slam shut on its own when the mag is forcibly inserted; S&W claims this was a feature, not a bug, but it seems to have been a consistent source of complaints. This is reportedly the reason for the addition of a small external tab in front of the LH-side slide stop.
 
I had a 2014 production M&P9 with the "improved" trigger. It was definitely better than the first production triggers. But then again, I've been to gun shops over the years and handled other M&P9s, and the trigger have been pretty sporadic.

I recently got my hands on a few M&P9 2.0s at the LGS, and the trigger is much improved over the M&P9 I had. So good that I almost want one, and I wouldn't even do an Apex.
 
I bought the original M&P model 209301 (no thumb safety) over the new 2.0, mostly because of aesthetics. I didn't care for the cutouts in the frame, ahead of the trigger guard, or the texturing of the new grip.

I've put 500 rounds through it since I bought it in April, and the trigger has gotten smoother on its own. There are home brew methods to improve the trigger all over YouTube; and, of course, there is always the Apex trigger option. I haven't seen the necessity for either of those as yet. I've learned to stage it and apply pressure to get a clean break. It is dead nuts accurate.

Another reason that I opted for the original M&P was the price. I bought this gun for $369 online with free shipping.
 
The last M&P I owned was in 2015. I did put an APEX kit in it, but actually took it back out because I didn't feel like it was delivering a noticeable difference. The ones I feel in the store are slightly better than that. I think if the other changes of the 2.0 really appeal to you then it makes sense to go that way, but if the trigger was your only concern I'm not sure I'd go that route, especially as the older model can be found for very low prices currently.
 
Internally, the way the trigger functions is the same but different.

They added a new part that moves the sear. It basically works like a lever. The trigger bar pushes against the part, and it rotates to drop the sear. The original trigger had the trigger bar interface with the sear directly.

It doesn't seem like such a simple change would make a big difference, but it does.


In comparison, the new trigger is much better than the prior version, which is better than the original.


A few changes were good... Most of the changes are cosmetic, neutral, of limited use to me, or actually a step back.

The new grip texture is good... I think the smaller beavertail is a step back.
 
The trigger was my least concern on the older versions. I've never had an M&P that the trigger bothered me.

I like the new grip texture and the reduced beavertail. I started with a Compact and there isn't much of a beaver tail on them.

I also like the looks of the 2 .0 especially the 5 inch version in FDE. No thumb safety for me though.
 
marine6680 said:
They added a new part that moves the sear. It basically works like a lever. The trigger bar pushes against the part, and it rotates to drop the sear. The original trigger had the trigger bar interface with the sear directly.

Interesting. Do you know where I could find a picture of it? I looked on Google and didn't see it (as best as I can tell). I'm trying to visualize how it works in comparison to the original.
 
I'm not sure where you could find a pic... I seen it first hand.

It uses the same sear or one very similar to the old model. They changed the trigger bar and added the lever. The lever lifts the rear of the sear, when the trigger moves back and pushes the lever.

EDIT:

Found pics.

40a2869159eb2c481ce3e3432137b986.jpg


IMG_5970.JPG.feeae7b77c2f85e673d57dfade6c0c3c.JPG
 
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Other than the trigger:
  • Minor changes to slide machining, notably a more scalloped side cutout, re-contoured ejection port, and "mini serrations" near the takedown lever notch on 9mm and .40 S&W models
  • Beavertail reduced in size
  • Different grip texture
  • Cutouts added to dust cover above tac rail
  • Serial number location changed from a plate above the trigger guard to the longer cutout on the RH-side dust cover
  • Metal chassis extended forward into dust cover to stiffen frame
  • 5" barrel now offered as a standard 9mm and .40 S&W option, rather than being offered exclusively on "Pro Series" models
  • Tactile loaded chamber indicator added to 5" models
  • All-metal magazine release
  • Lanyard hole added to takedown tool / backstrap retainer
  • 4th backstrap insert introduced ("Medium Large")
  • Slide stop redesigned to eliminate the tendency of the slide to slam shut on its own when the mag is forcibly inserted; S&W claims this was a feature, not a bug, but it seems to have been a consistent source of complaints. This is reportedly the reason for the addition of a small external tab in front of the LH-side slide stop.
I have asked S&W about the "auto load feature" on my 45C, and in every case they told me it was not supposed to be there as a feature. They said it was merely a characteristic of many poly guns. I would buy a 2.0 for that improvement alone.
 
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