Barrell Configurations in Muzzle Loaders

W

Whisk

New member
Can someone explain the bbl "choking" utilized in the newer muzzleloaders of today. I have a Wolf 209 direct fire CVA 50 Cal with a 24" one in 28 (I think) bbl and I notice when I use the powerbelt bullets they start real hard (that 3 bucks for bullet starter was best 3 I ever spent) but it gets real easy after the longer rod on the bullet starter (about 6 inches) then its easy all the way down to about where powder is and it gets hard again.

Is this due to "choking" at the muzzle for accuracy and tighter tolerances down near "chamber" but a little expanded section in the middle for ease of loading or some other reason :confused:

Also, I measured on the rod where it should be when bullet is completely seated but sometimes its harder than others to get it all the way down. When I shoot it after not pushing the rod (and bullet) down as far as it can go if I really put pressure on it, it seems to shoot OK. Is this dangerous ??? :confused:

(I'm using 100 grs of Triple Seven with 295 gr Powerbelts)
 
Generally, factory production barrels are not choked. You seem to be describing how the plastic sabot gradually wears down a little bit as you push it halfway down the barrel making it somewhat easier to ram home. At the bottom or breech of the barrel where it gets hard again is where you have pushed accumulated powder residue back down the barrel as you loaded again, and where the powder deposits are heavier from igniting a heavy powder charge. That's why many people who shoot tight fitting sabots and heavy powder charges will swab the barrel with several wet and dry patches in between every few shots or even more often depending on the degree of loading difficulty and effect on accuracy.
People use a variety of solvents or substances depending on the powder they're shooting, but some claim that alcohol evaporates quickly. You don't want to use too much moisture that can interfere with igniting the next load of powder without dry patching afterward. Hoppe's Number 9 Plus Black Powder Solvent & Patch Lubricant is another good cleaning/swabbing product, and it also doesn't interfere with ignition.
777 has sucrose type by products which can harden (like carmel) and which may require a little experimenting to find the right product to swab with.
Others have mentioned how the Powerbelts load easier than other tight fitting sabot designs. If they are loading tight for you, maybe your barrel is getting more fouled than you realize when shooting multiple rounds.
 
I think your right (both about bbl fouling more down near where powder is and fouling of bbl in general.

You may be right about Hoppes too but I always thought #9 was primarily for smokeless. I'm gonna try some of the other remedies for cleaning.

I didn't really think the 100 grs of 777 was a lot but maybe it is. I just got a 50 cal brush (was using 28 gauge bore snake) and am going to try some windex or alcohal.........

I like those PowerBelts. I heard you have to clean bbl even more often with sabots due to plastic residue.

Anyway, I will keep experimenting........

Gettin' some good things to try on here.... :)
 
Maybe I'll try the Hoppes then.

Still have a question..... If you don't get the bullet down the bore the same each time can tis cause problems (IOW space between powder and bullet?

Hodgen's recommends compressing Triple 7 with the ball each time, is what I've read.

Also, if you leave any oil in bbl won't that "catch" the powder when you pour it down bbl?
 
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