Barrel obstruction

N

napkinholder202

New member
My girlfriends father gave me his Marlin model 60 22 LR(semi auto) to look at because he and his neighbor couldn't get the thing to hit the a piece of paper to save their lives. It's Open sights no scope. So i brought it home and the stock and front sight were really loose, I thought easy fix just tighten up and sight in. I proceeded to shoot it and maybe 3 out of 4 rounds would keyhole and be all over the paper.

So I brought it in to clean it hoping it wasnt the rifling and maybe just really dirty. I tried to push a cleaning rod through the muzzle end (I know not supposed to but its a cheap rifle) and it wouldnt go all the way through. I proceeded to take the rifle apart to see what was wrong. When it was apart and I could look down the muzzle end there was an obstruction close to where the throat or lands would be.

Could it just be carbon build up or do you think it was like that from the factory? Maybe when they were rifling it they somehow left a metal shaving in it? He bought it new 20 years ago. I told him to contact Marlin and see if they would take it back and look at it but not sure if they will. Im sure he doesnt want to spend a lot of money on a gunsmith either when he can get a new ruger 10/22 cheap.

If they Marlin wont take it back and a gunsmith would be too much, could try an drill it out with a smaller bit since i dont think it's where the rifling is... Any thoughts? I'm not a gunsmith by any means but if that's what it is its worth a try as long as that would be safe to do. It isnt safe to shoot right now.
 
I have a friend who had a similar problem with his Walter target rifle. One day his rifle went from tac driver to spray and pray. He cleaned it with a brass wire brush and some bore solvent and found a large build up of lead in the barrel. once that was done accuracy was restored.
 
That very well could be it, but when i tried to clean it with a patch and then a wire brush I almost got both of them stuck on whatever it is.
 
Im sure he doesnt want to spend a lot of money on a gunsmith either when he can get a new ruger 10/22 cheap.
Click to expand...

Marlin 60s run about $50 LESS than a Ruger and are generally more accurate. Once with a patch and brush will not get any serious lead build up out.
 
I cant comment as to how often he cleaned it but what I was trying to say is no matter how hard I push that rod whatever is in there wont budge. I had to get vice grips on the rod to pull it back out.
 
I really don't mean this as a knock but from reading the post I get the feeling no one there should be tearing into a gun with tools. If I were in your shoes I'd take it to a gunsmith for a deep cleaning. Shouldn't cost more than $30/$40 and that'll tell you your next move.
 
I'm with the previous posters; probably lead fouling.

However, as a general personal rule, anything gun-related that needs vise grips/large hammer/chisel/etc., I head over to my gunsmith. Most of the time he has a solution that doesn't require those things.
 
Thanks for all the input. I have a buddy who owns a machine shop. He said he has the tools to get it out without harming the rifling. So i'll send it his way clean it and put it back together.
 
A ring of lead may form with some cheap promotional 22lr ammo.

I had it happen with a S&W K22 revolver. Took a lot of soaking with #9 and brushing to remove.

As i didn't think its was possible, i shot it again, while watching for the lead to form again, it did. Returned the case of ammo for a refund.
 
Interesting post

A ring of lead may form with some cheap promotional 22lr ammo.
Click to expand...
Interesting and good information to know. I have also seen where a case has broken loose at the base/rim. Never found the base but the next round too the brass case into the target. I'd really like to see what that material is. ..... :confused:

An additional check,, is to oil the outside of the barrel, to make it shiny and look down the outside of the barrel at see it you might spot a barrel ring. .. :(

Keep us posted and;
Be Safe !!!
 
Remove the obstruction and brush the inside till it's clear again.

The price of the gun vs taking to a gunsmith isn't worth it unless it has sentimental value.

Some ammo just plugs everything. I had a Rugger almost choke on some ammo to the point I couldn't get a rod down it. I took the barrel off the gun and hit the cleaning rod with my hand a few times and it went through. Once through every pass after was easier till clean.
 
I don't believe Lewis makes one smaller than 32 cal.

napkinholder202,

You have several options here. If it is lead (most likely) and you know someone who has one of the now-discontinued Outer's Foul Out tools, the lead may be removed by it electrolytic action.

If you have a good penetrating oil on hand, like Kroil, plug the breech and put enough in the bore to cover the obstruction and let is sit for a week and see if it won't then break loose if you simply push a brass jag without a patch on it into the bore.

If you don't have the oil on hand and have to buy something, I recomment you buy a bottle of the Sharp Shoot'R product called NO LEAD. This actually reacts with lead but not steel, making the lead into a crumbly compound that patches out pretty easily. I would not buy it directly from the factory, as that is MSRP and Midway or other suppliers have it for over 25% less.
 
You aren't trying to reverse the brush in the bore of the gun, are you?
Push it ALL the way through until the brush comes fully out, then pull it all the way back through. Reversing the brush in the bore can get it stuck.
 
Hydrogen Peroxide can soften lead.
Plug the barrel and pour some in slightly past the obstruction.
Leave it for awhile and if it's lead deposit, it should come out.
Don't get the H2O2 on the outside of the barrel, though, as the peroxide might damage the bluing.
 
Don't see a lewis lead remover in .22 cal. No I'm not trying to reverse the brush, i had to pull it back out because the lead is basically cemented right in there. I've got it soaking now.
 
Before you take it out for any drilling, clean it. A drill can drift and if it does, there goes the lands.

Use a good bronze wire brush and when it's worn out, wrap some copper chore boy (no soap) around the worn bristles and push that through. That'll remove a lot of lead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top