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mooseye

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The S/N shows to be a 1948 model 12ga. Gun is in fair condition and action works great.
The problem is that it will not eject spent plastic shells. The shell catches on the opening of the housing at the crimped end. It takes very little effort with a fingernail to remove. Its as if the uncrimped hull is a little to long to clear the receiver.
Is there a fix for this or a different type of shell?
I have changed the configuration of the spring and collars every way they can be with no change. I have not tried paper hulls.
 
It's still probably just not moving the bolt back far enough to eject.Make sure the magazine tube is clean with no surface rust to hamper the movement of the friction ring.You might also take the stock off and clean the action spring and the tube that it is in.And make sure the inside of the receiver is clean and the bolt is not hanging up in there.Be careful with the tang screws if you pull the stock as A5 slots are very small and you will mess them up with a wrong size screw driver.If this doesn't work you may have to go to a higher velocity shell.

There is also an ejector on the breech end of the barrel that should stick out about 1/8 of an inch .Make sure it is not broken or worn down so far that it misses the rim.
 
I will reply here also. Make sure the gun is not chambered for 2 9/16" (6.5cm) shells, as many guns made for sale in Europe were. If so, a 2 3/4" (7.0cm) will do just as you describe. The proof markings on the barrel should include either "6.5" or "7.0".

Jim
 
barrel is stamped 2 3/4" and that is what I am shooting. I don't know anything about dissassembling the action.
The tube is in great shape and friction ring is clean and oiled. The action does have the two tangs in good shape and bolt is free to travel past it.
 
If you are shooting cheap target/sport loads out of the A-5 they will never eject regardless of what you do. You need to shoot medium to heavy loads with these shotguns to function properly. Light loads will hang up every time. If you want to shoot cheap light loads, get a gas operated shotgun.
 
Is the barrel the original barrel? It sounds to me llike Jim hit it on the head, sounds like a 2 9/16" receiver. The A-5 receiver dictates the length of the shell to be used, not just the barrel. When you fire a shell, the bolt and barrel travel all the way to the rear locked together, the bolt locks to the rear and unlocks from the barrel, the barrel travels forward, the ejector mounted on the rear of the barrel extension ejects the shell, and the bolt stays locked in the rearward position until another shell trips the bolt release. From the sound of it, your gun's bolt is locked to the rear, but the shell is hitting the port. This seems to indicate it is a short receiver with a short ejection port.
 
Simple test.Use a high brass shell with 3 3/4 drams of powder and see if it kicks it out.If so,it's probably just dirty and sticky.If not,find a local gunsmith.

FWIW I just measured an A5 and the ejection port opening on a 2 3/4 inch receiver is 2 11/16.Make sure it is not shorter than that.
 
I agree with Zero. Shoot some high base loads, I bet they sling out like greased lightning. Inside of the receiver probably has 50+ years of powder, grease and dirt. Take it to a smith to clean!
 
Ok, I think I discovered the problem.
While measuring the ejection/loading port, I noticed that the barrel was showing back past the end of the port. I had screwed the tube cap on as far as it goes and it forced the barrel to far back. This cap has locking notches so that it does not have to bottom out to stay in place. I just screwed it off till the barrel is flush.
I can't wait to try it tommorow. I have been trying to figure this out for a while. The forarm is seated in the grove and the barrel is flush with the port. This make a good sixteenth inch difference in the opening.
 
If you fire the shotgun with the magazine cap not tight against the forearm, you will split the forearm. If your forearm is too short, like if someone took a Savage or Remington forearm and put it on a Browning, it will do what you are saying. A new forearm is about $50.
 
It is normal for the barrel to show about 1/16 of an inch or so in the ejection port.

This is a recoil operated mechanism that requires several metal parts to slide against each other to cycle.They are known to be iffy on light loads but should cycle 3 1/4 dram loads fine.You should be able to measure the ejection port and confirm whether or not it is 2 11/16 which will tell you it is the correct receiver.The barrel will normally be quite visible in the port.As Scorch says if you try to shoot it with the forearm loose enough to let the barrel move forward,you won't like it.More likely than not the gun just needs a good cleaning.Take the barrel and recoil spring off and polish the magazine tube which is the part the spring and friction ring slide on.Hold the receiver stock up with the bolt locked back and spray a good nitro solvent cleaner on everything in there.There are plenty of good gun cleaners at any gun store.Take an air compressor and blow it all out.Repeat until what you see is clean.Put a light coat of gun oil on it.That is about the best you can do if you do not want to disassemble it.

Also,put a drop of oil on the extractors on the front of the bolt and make sure they are moving freely.
 
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One more comment and I will get off this thread.There is a magazine cutoff that rocks back and forth when the breech is back and keeps another shell from coming out until the spent one is gone.This can wear down after A LOT of shooting.You never exactly said whether the shell was simply not being ejected or was being trapped by another shell.At any rate ,clean it very well and if that doesn't help,take it to a gunsmith.
 
Ok, the action and the forend have the same s/n.
I tried it out Sat. and it fired like a new one. No hanging hulls. I plan on shooting it some more and run the cap down to the point of hang-up then back it off one or two clicks.
I don't think there are any parts missing. Right now the forend will move about 1/32 inch with some force down on it.
 
I probably won't use the gun much if any, I just like for things to work correctly. Maybe I will leave the nut tight, that way I don't have to pick up the hulls, and won't risk splitting the forend.
Thanks to everyone for you time and input. I have learnd alot about the weapon, and feel better able to understand it.
 
Well, I took the gun out yesterday and with the cap tight if fired perfectly. Go figure. I guess it just needed to be used to loosen things up.
And, no, I won't be getting rid or it.
 
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