Auto 5 Part Search

T

TheVillageIdiot

Inactive
The ejector on my Browning Auto 5 16 gauge broke. The ejector is the pre-pre-WWII style that looks like a canoe paddle with two prongs at the wide end with individual ramps that taper down to about the middle of the ejector. At the opposite end of the part is a lug/pin/post that is 180 degrees opposite of the two prongs.

Any suggestions on where to search for a replacement?

Browning Auto 5 16 gauge - Serial number X-3064
The barrel has the short barrel extension with the elongated slot hole for the lug/pin/post to slide. The barrel is stamped "2 3/4 inch shells", but the barrel extension is clearly an older model. The ejection port is the shorter 2 and 9/16, but the face of the bolt is recessed enough for the modern shell to eject cleanly.

I've contacted:

Browning Customer Service
Art's Gun Shop
Jack First Gun Shop
Numrich/ E-gunparts.com
Midwest Gun Parts

Thanks for any help.
 
I need some advise. I purchased a Belguim made Browning Auto 5 for made 1973 for $400. I sent it to Browning to be evaluated hoping to get the gun reblued. I got a quote back for $725. To place the gun in proper machancial order $177, Reblue $255, Engraving $255. With the money already spent in the purchase would the $725 be worth the investment?
Thanks!
 
Additional Work On Your A-5

Really, only you can make that call. In absolute terms, investing that kind of money into the gun would make me pause. Can you find a better value in a similar shotgun in better condition?

If your gun is rare or special, re-bluing will reduce its value. Modern engraving probably won't add value to the gun, unless the engraver is known or will be signing the work.

Search on Gunbroker.com to see how similar guns are being priced. As an example, a friend has a 16 gauge A-5 made by Remington during the WWII era. The gun is pristine and has the steel shot effect on top of the receiver. Beautiful gun, shoots like a charm. He estimates that the gun is worth $700.

If you like to buy and sell guns, you will probably not get your money back out of the gun. If you like to shoot and tend to keep your guns, if the money makes you happy, then take the plunge.
 
Looks like this thread got hijacked right out of the gate. No matter, if you're looking for hard to find gun parts, including Browning parts, you usually need look no further than Bob's Gun Shop in Arkansas. If they don't have it or can't get it you're probably out of luck. They're a little pricey, but they have to be because they carry a lot of near-obsolete stuff that you can't find anywhere else. I think they're strictly internet, and I can't remember their web address, so use a search engine and search Bobs Gun Shop Arkansas.
 
Zero - I just tried to add it to an inbox and it went, so I would assume they do have it in stock...hopefully the OP can get it
 
Al Mundy, I didn't realize you were a new member when I mentioned hijacking the thread. I apologize. I'm sure you just didn't know where to pose your question.

I suggest you open a new thread. People will be glad to help you if they see your question but right now your inquiries aren't seen on the list of threads that begin the Shotgun forum. So unless someone opens this particular thread to address the OP's question, they won't see your questions.

If possible, when you open a new thread, add several pictures of your gun in its present condition, because the guys who frequent this forum love to see pictures (and pictures are actually helpful to them when they are trying to help you). Many forum members now own, or have owned, or are otherwise familiar with Browning A-5's, so you should get some great advice- that is, if members actually see your question and can see pictures of your gun.

But since I bumped into your question on this thread, and I'll tell you what I think: If I was you, I'd just be concerned with the mechanical condition of my gun. I'd forget the re-blue job and would let my A-5 wear its battle scars proudly. I'd just knock off any existing rust spots by oiling and lightly rubbing those spots with the finest steel wool I could find. Thereafter, I'd just keep my gun well-lubricated to prevent further rust. As far as engraving it goes, I'd personally see that as a frill, but it's your gun, your money, and your business, not mine.

You were quoted $177 for fixing the mechanics of your gun. That's not a frill; that's actually important to its operation and your safety, but it may be that you can get enough help from members of this forum to tell you how to cut down that expense, particularly if all that's involved is just changing out springs and parts and such. I'm the least mechanically-inclined guy on the planet, a credit manager by trade (just love to shoot guns), but several kind souls on this forum once walked me through fixing my own 45 revolver free, and that would have cost me an easy $100 if I'd had to pay to get it fixed.

Anyway, welcome to the forum, Al, and good luck!
 
As far as that goes Al, what is malfunctioning that needs to be put back in proper mechanical order?

I would clean and lube it good, understand where the spacer needs to be for low and high brass shells, and find out whether or not I had a problem before I got it fixed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top