Attn: SAVAGE rifle owners..Trigger???

Glockster35

New member
Savage rifle owners, I am wondering what types of aftermarket triggers you have used and what you thought of each.

SharpShooter
Canjar
Timney
Rifle Basix
any others I forgot to mention?

I have a Savage 10FP, in .308 that I am thinking of replacing the trigger on.
 
I have the SharpShooter Supply trigger in my 10FP. At the time I bought it, it might have been the only replacement trigger for the Savage on the market. I've had no issues with it at all.

--
Mike
 
Actually I tuned mine myself with information I got from the net, the only problem with it is that I still would like to get it a bit smoother, with less creep. It sets right at 3lbs now. I know someone out there has tried something other than the sharpshooter...I just want to get the best for the money, since they are all about the same cost wise.
 
I don't have any problem with my factory trigger. It's a little heavy, but very crisp, no creep at all. Did I just get lucky? A lot of people seem to complain about them.

-Fuzzy
 
I have a 12 BVSS in .22-250 that I put a Sharp Shooter Supply trigger in. It's awesome...NO creep, and it's set at 20 oz right now, althought I'll probably take it lower one of these days. The original SSS triggers were adjustable from 12 to 24 oz. That weeight is great if you're using it for prarie dogs. The safety is a little more difficult to put on, but I've gotten it figured out. They have a new one that's adjsutable between 2-4 lbs, I think...the intended use will determine which trigger set you buy.
 
IMHO, anyone who gets the Savage trigger down to 3 pounds, should stop, right now. Any further work can lead to ruination.

Jim
 
I had Sharp Shooter Supply install their trigger on my Savage 110FP, I measured at about 1.5lbs trigger pull. It could be a tad lighter but it is adjustable and it helped my groups to a consistent 1" MOA shooting factory ammo...
 
DONT STONE SAVAGE TRIGGERS!!!!!! The metal on the out side is harder than the metal on the inside. stone will cause this to wear out very quickly!if you stoned yours its only a matter of time! there are two adjustments on the factory trigger that you can use to get it pretty close, did mine and dont see the need to install a new one yet, has very little creep and is crisp. have been shooting sub MOA groups with hand loads. it would hold its own with any winchester or remington out of the box . period.:eek:
 
Now I might sound as if I'm a punk, but in a rifle if the trigger is breaking at 5lbs, how much does a lighter trigger affect your accuracy?

Honestly?

In all my rifles I have never monkeyed with the factory triggers and on a good day (and I wasn't flinching like Robin Givens with Mike Tyson in a rage! ;)) my groups were 1.2" or smaller.

Now when Mike was smacking me around. . . that's a different story! :D

My grandfather had his 257 Roberts tweaked, twitched, modded and prodded and that thing still didn't shoot any better then my rifles. His .257 had a trigger set at I believe 2lbs (or 2.5lbs) and he still shot that rifle no better then I shot my Remington 700 BDL (300 Win Mag) stock trigger which was I believe at 4-5lbs. FWIW, I could not shoot that 257 worth a crap, and in factory ammo it was a wide printer--average groups were in the neighborhood of 3-4".

Derek
 
viescze: a 5# trigger pull is o.k, if you're talking about a Glock owned by a native of NY.

Reducing a rifle trigger from 5#, down to even 3#, and also adjusting out the creep and overtravel will make a significant difference in your groups. If I couldn't get my rifles to shoot under.5", I'd throw them in the nearest river.

For varmint hunting, I set my triggers (Rems.) at just over 1#. Some varminthunters go lower, some a little higher.

My Bushy Shorty came from the factory with an 8# trigger; it now sports a JP Enterprises trigger/hammer with a pull around 2.5#. BIG difference in group sizes.
 
Walter. . . a pound? Loadamussy!

IMHO, that's a bit on the LIGHT side if you are not suffering from Marfan's syndrome! ;) Golly!

FWIW, my 300 WM Rem 700BDL was 4.25lbs and the largest it ever grouped was the 1.2" I mentioned earlier, that was with the Remington Big Game/Safari Ammo. The norm was .75".

I did dump that rifle once I picked up my Rem Classic .375H&H. I figured the only the 300 WM did that the the 375 couldn't do was recoil less! :D BTW, the H&H trigger breaks just at 3lbs, and that's plenty for me. I kinda like fighting the inevitable! ;)

Derek
 
When I'm adjusting triggers for deer hunters, I usually adjust them to around 3#, which is fine for deer hunting. Most folks who buy smaller-caliber/heavy-barreled rifles (like me) use those rifles for varmint or target shooting. I had my Timney trigger on my Rem. VS .223 set at around 8oz., but found that to be too light for field use. I moved it up to around 1#, and found that to be just right. I installed a Timney on my .243 Rem. VLS, but can't get it down to anywhere near 1#, safely.

If you're shooting large game, then a difference of a couple of pounds trigger pull probably won't make much difference. If you're trying to shoot 1/4 m.o.a., trigger pull weight makes a world of difference.
 
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