Attended first Bench rest match today...

M

Mosin-Marauder

New member
I took my Winchester Model 70 Ranger in .30-06 with Weaver tactical one piece rail and Weaver tactical rings. I was shooting factory ammo, 150 grain Winchester Xtreme Points. I free floated the barrel two nights before the match, and then I mounted a Leupold 6-18 scope on it (my Dad's). During my course of fire we had to fire two strings of 15 rounds for a total possible score of 330. 5 targets on each paper and two papers per shooter, excluding sighters, all at 300 yards. I sighted in with a sub-MOA group (2.75) and then I started my strings. My first string was a 75, sporter barrel and the ensuing mirage due to my barrel temp exceeding 200 degrees, as well as the fact u was using hunting ammo and my own inexperience, of course. Later string was a 70 for a total scorecords of 145. I was third in the lower marksman class, and I beat probaby five people (who were kitted out with the latest and greatest benchrest gear, no less, except for one guy who also hado a sporter barrel). Highest score was a 308 in expert class. I won $15, I'm pretty happy with it. Not a terrible score for a beginner with hunting rifle and hunting rounds, but I'm not "proud of it". I might build a new upper for my AR for bench rest, or I might build off my Winchester action, I may just buy a new rifle. I don't know. I had a good time, though. Any tips for builds/rifles are appreciated, as well as tips on improving. Thanks for reading!

-Mo.
 
If you are shooting "hunter/bench" I would recommend doing some load development before you change rifles. Many if not most of the new M-70s are quite accurate and if you give them the ammo they want, they can shoot well under sub-MOA. Handloading is something you should get into in any case, and this may be the opportunity to do the loads, learn the rifle and improve all of your skills at one time.
 
I already reload, and I was heavily considering getting some dies for .30-06, as I already have some 168 SMKS and a new can of 4064. I might pick some up this evening and make a few test loads so I can have a good load for next time. I appreciate you mentioning that, though, as I had kinda forgot about it, reloading for it that is.
 
I will make a suggestion.

If you like working on things, then buy a Savage long action (110/111/116) on sales, and build your own.

Cost is around $425 (was at Cablellas not sure still). Low grade stock, acu trigger.

You can then order a Heavy Varminet or Bull barrel, Shilen would be my suggestion but a lot out there.

The come "pre fit". YOu take the old barrel off (yourself) and you put the new barrel on (yourself).

Tools to do that are about $150, action wrench (much better than a barrel wrench for this though other guns need both and a gunsmith), a nut tool, head space gauges (you can add a torque wrench to this but it often done without it)

A great variety of stocks out there. I like Laminated but others prefer the composite (advantage of a build in bed) and are pillar mounted.

For something around $1000 you have a very good target rifle (after market barrels are around $300, Savage does not sell barrels other than on orignail rifle)

You can change barrels on down the line, and you can shoot any cartridge that has a 30-06 head in it (308 etc single loading) . Bot head is easy to change and you can shoot other calibers (6.5 Creedmore)

Savage will do custom setups. I don't know if they will do a Varmint (to Savage varmint is a very heavy barrel like .8 at 26 inches) or a bull in 30-06. Can't hurt to ask but you need to know the line and what parts you want stock wise, trigger wise so I would pick the one that was the best there and then just custom the barrel, it does need to be long action.

You can shop the site, select the parts you want.

That does not preclude future barrel changes.

one note: Newer Savage have a smooth nut and the best way to take those off is to heat it up with a torch and use a pipe wrench. New nuts are available.

Any other gun for a barrel change requires a gun smith to remove (you need both an action and a barrel wrench or not mind damaged the old barrel with a pipe wrench), it has to be chambered and head spaced when they do it.
 
I've had many a sub-MOA group from my '06. Sporter; 1:10, 26". Typically, five shots in about 7/8 MOA. Sometimes a bit better, rarely worse. 9X magnification.

Sierra 150-grain, either flat-base or boat-tail softpoints. 4064, 52.5 grains. Used to use Rem 9-1/2 primers; convenience led to Winchester Large Rifle or Magnum primers. Either Rem or Win brass; no difference in results.

FWIW, one MOA at 500 yards.

The tightest three-shot group I ever made was 0.4 MOA with Sierra 180-grain SPBT ahead of 54 grains of H414. Also one MOA at 500.
 
I hate to say this being a huge Winchester Guy, but if you want "Cheap" yet super accurate, take a gander at the Ruger American Predator in 6.5 CM.

After playing with my wife's 6.5 RPR, and hearing good things about the Predator I got one thinking it might make a good light weight hunting rifle.

So I found one for under $400, play with some Hornady 140 A-Max ( wife's bullets), got it sighted it, then loaded ups some Noslers with Win 760 for antelope. I took it to the range to see what the different load would make on my zero. These are the first three rounds at 100, then change to gongs at distance to check my drop tables. It was on there too.

DSCN0268.JPG
 
I'm going to a Savage M12 260 Remington. Little to no recoil and as good as they get for accuracy out to and past 1000 yards. They claim it's a 1400 yard rifle, problem is I have no 1400 yard range with which to practice at.
 
Good to see someone shooting a cheap Winchester at a bench match. Love the little rifles. Yes there is better but there is something about a Winchester. Buy your dies & some match bullets. Back off the loads a bit if you can & your shoulder will thank you. Learn the rifle & have fun.
 
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