Are transfer bar systems more prone to light strikes?

J

Jkwas

New member
I was curious. My revolver has a transfer bar system. Occasionally I have light strikes where the primer dimples, but doesn't ignite. If I put the round back into the gun, and shoot it again, it will go off. Is that an indication of a light strike, or poor primer?
 
It's factory ammo. Some manufacturers are more prone than others. What could be done to improve the strike? Perhaps a heavier spring?
 
What kind of revolver?

Did you buy it new?

If yes, what have you changed/modified on it?

If not, do you know if the previous owner(s) modified it in some way?
 
It's a Taurus revolver(here comes all the Taurus bashing). It doesn't happen a lot, I'm just curious if it's something that can be improved. Maybe tweaked.
Constructive suggestions only please. I don't want to hear "send it back to the pot metal factory in argentina and have it melted down to make barbecue utensils" comments. :rolleyes:
I bought it new. Clean it after every use. I have 900 rounds thru it. Mostly 38's, but some 357's.
 
I suggest you try an experiment. Buy a few boxes of varied manufacturers ammunition. PMC, Winchester, Federal, Remington, CCI and UMC. See which ammunition provides 100% ignition and stick with that brand. CCI primers are usually hard to ignite. The transfer bar safety is not at fault.
 
I bought it new. Clean it after every use. I have 900 rounds thru it.
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Based on that information, and the fact that the problem is with factory ammunition, I'd say that it's time for you to call the manufacturer and make this their problem.
 
Follow up

Went to my gunsmith today. He checked out my gun. Apparently Taurus uses a target grade wolf 8lb spring from the factory to give the gun a light trigger pull. He said this doesn't always work out for all ammo, so he installed a factory 12lb spring that should light off anything. I don't think it hurt the trigger pull at all, so we'll see how it works out. He did this all under warranty.
Nice people. :)
 
Your last post says it all. Both taurus revolvers I have had experienced the same problem. But only in double action. Single action they fire fine but I noticed in DA the hammer does not come back as far and essentially gives you a "short stroke". Apparently this does not fully load the spring and results in light hits on the primer. A nuicance we shouldn't have to deal with in a new gun but sending it back often costs more than the fix.
 
In theory...no

Assuming zero loss of mechanical transfer mechanism, they should be equal.

but, transfer bar systems will collect dirt a bit more readily than traditional hammer systems. This is because there is more internal surfaces to rub against.

Keeping the gun CLEAN and properly lubricated will make a world of difference on a revolver. I have sen pretty torn up Model 19s that were brought back to life with some elbo grease, a buffer & compount, and time.

Lightening, or a weak spring will increase the likelyhood of a light strike.

When I took a recently offered Revolver 1 class in MN, there were 2 guys with older guns that did not fire every round. I had them both try out my handloads, which for class, I built with Federal 100 primers. They didn't have any problems afterwards. The cleaned the gun internals during break and then tried out their factory ammo afterwards. Everything was fine again.

The point is this. Any issue with the spring or buildup of dirt in a transfer bar system will make it more prone to shallow hits. If your primary firearm is experiencing these issues, 1) clean it 2) possibly replace the spring and 3) switch to handloads for double action shooting with Federal primers.

Just my $.02
 
Something I picked up along the way

100W_Warlock

I have found this in S&W and Taurus Revolvers. The transfer bars can tend to be a little "long", stay with me here. I have found after doing an action job on some S&W revolvers, the trigger will not return every once in a while when cycling the gun in the shop. What happens is after altering the internal parts, to get a good action job, the geometry of the cycling components end up with the bar moving a little less then it did before making it to long. How to check for that? When the trigger won't return just pull back on the hammer a bit and the trigger will snap forward, there you have it. I generally shorten the bar (the top) about .040" and it cures the problem.

When working on Taurus revolvers, and I have worked on my share of them, I have fixed light hits by doing the same thing. I am not saying that is what is wrong I am just saying it may deserve a little look. Hope that helps.
 
update

Went to the range yesterday with the new hammer spring. The 605 shot flawlessly. Nice deep dimples on 3 manufacturers ammo. Apparently the smith was dead on with the diagnosis. :)
 
Jkwas said:
...Apparently Taurus uses a target grade wolf 8lb spring from the factory to give the gun a light trigger pull. He said this doesn't always work out for all ammo, so he installed a factory 12lb spring that should light off anything. I don't think it hurt the trigger pull at all, so we'll see how it works out. He did this all under warranty. Nice people...

...Went to the range yesterday with the new hammer spring. The 605 shot flawlessly. Nice deep dimples on 3 manufacturers ammo. Apparently the smith was dead on with the diagnosis.
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That is how it is supposed to work! Truly a happy ending.

Now, may one may conclude that a revolver with lighter springs is prone to light strikes?
 
One may conclude that a revolver with lighter springs is more LIKELY to have problems with light strikes. It may or may not be prone to them. It depends on how over-engineered the ignition system is.
 
I had a ruger revolver single six

and it would do that every once in a while. the firing pin on that thing was round so.... I was used to my marlin which had a very sharp rectangler edge to it. unless it does this alot I would not worry about it. :) :)
 
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