In a moment so rare that I have to point out how rare it is
, I will totally disagree with
Nick_C_S.
If it was me, I'd tap them out a bit with my inertia puller, re-seat to 1.235 (which is where I seat my 200 LSWC's, btw), then re-crimp them; and fairly firm at that.
I would definitely not to this for a few reasons.
First is that cast lead bullets sometimes (not always) have a tendency to squeeze down/alter their shape when stuffed in to brass. They don't spring or hold their shape as a jacketed bullet is more likely to do. If the case in question was sized down to minimum dimensions... the lead slug has been "squeezed" in to place and it is now snug-fit. If you tap it out or just a bit forward, you may lose that snug fit.
I would also never "re-crimp" a semi-auto pistol round designed to hold a bullet in place not at all by crimp but by properly sized brass and case mouth tension. To "re-crimp
firmly" also suggests that we are using some manner of crimp to make that bullet stay in the cartridge case. In .45 ACP in a semi-auto pistol, this is a bad idea! Save a crimp in .45 for a .45 Auto Rim or a .45 Colt. Not for a pistol that is designed to headspace on the case mouth.
It's my opinion that doing the above gives the round EVERY possible chance to do what so many have said is the biggest threat -- the bullet unintentionally seating itself deeper in the case... resulting in unintended higher pressure.
In a related idea... I think the handloading pioneers dropped the ball a bit when they started abusing the term "crimp" and it leads some down a wrong path. We use two basic kinds of crimp, but the kind in question (the taper crimp, on a semi-auto pistol round designed to headspace on the case mouth) should have been blessed with a
different name than "taper crimp." We use a taper crimp to smooth out the case mouth that we had previously belled/flared in an earlier step to assist us with inserting a bullet. Our taper crimp is meant to prepare the case end of the mouth for smooth feeding and proper fit in the chamber.
A taper crimp is NOT a roll crimp.
A roll crimp is what we use in revolver rounds when we force the case mouth to roll inward and physically grip that bullet as if it were fingers. The bullet often/typically has a crimp groove or a cannelure specifically there for us to do exactly that -- and we most often never have such a crimp groove or cannelure on a semi-auto pistol bullet.
Too much "taper crimp" on a semi-auto pistol round will not only distort the loaded round... it usually succeeds in
less grip on the bullet. Take some junk brass and extra bullets and experiment at your own bench to see this in action.
Now! Is this too much discussion on a seemingly very small problem and a little handful of ammo?
NO! These discussions are intended to open up relevant conversation and share knowledge. I post the things I post so that typically a greater mind who might find a detail in my post can counter it, correct it or expand on it... and I can learn more about it myself.