Are these cases ruined?
- Thread starter Borgli
- Start date
Someone else can comment on heat damage.
Here is your answer. Less than $20.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cor...763677?hash=item283985d3dd:g:7eQAAOSw-3FZM4Oc
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=electric+warming+tray&_sop=15
. load on cookie sheet, dial in medium temp, let it sit. You can also use a coffee pot warmer and round cake pans. If you have to, put a tile over the coffee hot plate to hold the heat down a bit.
Here is your answer. Less than $20.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cor...763677?hash=item283985d3dd:g:7eQAAOSw-3FZM4Oc
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=electric+warming+tray&_sop=15
. load on cookie sheet, dial in medium temp, let it sit. You can also use a coffee pot warmer and round cake pans. If you have to, put a tile over the coffee hot plate to hold the heat down a bit.
I have given up on reloaders understanding before and again after. When reloaders decide to form cases for a chamber they do not have cases for they choose cases they do not need. It matters not that there is such a thing as a bad choice. A bad choice would be a case that has been work hardened.
Work hardened cases are difficult to neck up, I know, there are expanders that make it easier, that does not change the fact the cases are worked hardened. In the perfect world forming cases start with new/unfired cases and then there are once fired. POINT? ! Before drying your cases you did not determine how easy and or difficult the case necks were to neck up, you did not save cases for comparison after drying.
If your cases had been damaged by too much heat the case necks would have soften meaning the cases would be easier to form and or size. I am the fan of rules and factors. When it comes to heat and drying I believe it is a bad habit. I dry cases with heat but I control the temperature with pressure, I can not get water hotter than 212 degree at sea level and then there is that part when I find it necessary to dry cases with heat. I clean the worst of cases with acid, I have increased the amount of time required by reducing the percentage of acid.
Heat could be hidden, my heat is hidden in the water when I rinse. I try to rinse twice, again, the rinse water has a maximum temperature of 212 at sea level.
When it comes to heating the case I avoid heating the case head with the exception of rinsing, one more time, if I rinse with water and I heat the water at sea lever and I do not use a pressure cooker when heating the water the temperature should max out at 212 degree unless I am in the center of a hurricane.
F. Guffey
Work hardened cases are difficult to neck up, I know, there are expanders that make it easier, that does not change the fact the cases are worked hardened. In the perfect world forming cases start with new/unfired cases and then there are once fired. POINT? ! Before drying your cases you did not determine how easy and or difficult the case necks were to neck up, you did not save cases for comparison after drying.
If your cases had been damaged by too much heat the case necks would have soften meaning the cases would be easier to form and or size. I am the fan of rules and factors. When it comes to heat and drying I believe it is a bad habit. I dry cases with heat but I control the temperature with pressure, I can not get water hotter than 212 degree at sea level and then there is that part when I find it necessary to dry cases with heat. I clean the worst of cases with acid, I have increased the amount of time required by reducing the percentage of acid.
Heat could be hidden, my heat is hidden in the water when I rinse. I try to rinse twice, again, the rinse water has a maximum temperature of 212 at sea level.
When it comes to heating the case I avoid heating the case head with the exception of rinsing, one more time, if I rinse with water and I heat the water at sea lever and I do not use a pressure cooker when heating the water the temperature should max out at 212 degree unless I am in the center of a hurricane.
F. Guffey
JeepHammer
Moderator
I don't think 185 would harm brass no matter how long you left it...
All kinds of brass parts that work at those temps and still function for years without issues.
Brass pressure bellows comes to mind immediately, and a ton of brass springs.
All kinds of brass parts that work at those temps and still function for years without issues.
Brass pressure bellows comes to mind immediately, and a ton of brass springs.
mikid, I understand I will never please your with my answers, I do believe I can explain to the OP methods and or techniques he should have understood before he threw the cases into the oven, closed the over and then turned on the heat.
I do not want you to misunderstand, I honestly believe reloaders are coming up with many cute little ways of annealing, sizing etc. One saying invented by internet reloaders is the one about bumping the shoulder, that one goes beyond cute to silly.
I have no interest in being entertained but please explain to me how you can bump a shoulder back with a die that has case body support. And then? The next question will be how would a reloader prove the shoulder can be moved back. I have said over and over and over I find it impossible to move the shoulder back so do not tell me the shoulder moves back because you say so.
F. Guffey
I do not want you to misunderstand, I honestly believe reloaders are coming up with many cute little ways of annealing, sizing etc. One saying invented by internet reloaders is the one about bumping the shoulder, that one goes beyond cute to silly.
I have no interest in being entertained but please explain to me how you can bump a shoulder back with a die that has case body support. And then? The next question will be how would a reloader prove the shoulder can be moved back. I have said over and over and over I find it impossible to move the shoulder back so do not tell me the shoulder moves back because you say so.
F. Guffey
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Your cases are fine. 185 F isn't hot enough to do anything but dry 'em really well and make 'em really hot to the touch. 15 minutes is plenty. And another 15 for 'em to cool.
When you get to drying a bunch of cases, use a cookie sheet. A foil one from a dollar store will do nicely. Gets more done at once.
"...pictures didn't post..." Easiest is to use one of the free picture posting sites and post a link.
When you get to drying a bunch of cases, use a cookie sheet. A foil one from a dollar store will do nicely. Gets more done at once.
"...pictures didn't post..." Easiest is to use one of the free picture posting sites and post a link.
And the question was?
RC20, there has to be something you do not understand about annealing and drying cases. Again, I believe drying cases in the oven is a bad habit, again I dry cases with heat, I control the amount/temperature with altitude meaning I do not use heat to dry cases unless I rinse the cases after cleaning the cases in an acid. I limit the amount of time I soak cases in acid to 15 minutes, at one time I soaked the cases for less than 2 minutes.
I believe it is cute to dry cases in the over, again I believe drying cases in the over is a bad habit, again, I do not want to heat the head of the case.
When I decided to anneal cases I did a little research, I decided there were rules and factors, there is nothing complicated about annealing. That is my opinion, I understand there has to be 10 miles of responses on annealing, it seems with all of the responses posted on this forum the OP should have been able to find enough information in the annealing threads to answer his own question. Problem, the answers are still coming and we do not know why he stuck his cases in the over and he does not understand why I rinse cases in boiling water.
F. Guffey
Stats Shooter
New member
I use a food dehydration device I picked up at Wally world on the cheap. Cases are dry quickly. If it's a really big batch, like a few thousand, I air dry them for 3-4 days.
But to the op Question. I have dried them in the oven many times. 200 degrees for 1 hour. Annealing begins around 450.....200 degrees for several hours would do nothing to your brass.
And the funny color means you have harder water, or used too much lemneshine.
But to the op Question. I have dried them in the oven many times. 200 degrees for 1 hour. Annealing begins around 450.....200 degrees for several hours would do nothing to your brass.
And the funny color means you have harder water, or used too much lemneshine.
JeepHammer
Moderator
Brass fittings would be a different issue,
What about the brass diaphragm in an EGR valve that works for 40 years without giving up?
Easily 200 degree operating temps under the hood and EGR valves normally give up because the plunger carbons up or the iron/steel parts rust together.
Every single one of the old shop air compressors had a brass spring in the overpressure valves, couple hundred degree discharge air temp, still working 70 or 80 years later.
Some pressure canners from the turn of the century into the 70s had brass springs in the overpressure valves and still work fine.
I check my canners (some dating back to the turn of the century) every year before using them and the spring pressure hasn't been effected by the years of use or the heat involved, over 250*F. for 100 years!
People wonder why I make 'Widgets' in my shop for 'Obsolete' equipment, it works another 100+ years when the design is good and the parts are QUALITY!
Let's see 'China' do that!
What about the brass diaphragm in an EGR valve that works for 40 years without giving up?
Easily 200 degree operating temps under the hood and EGR valves normally give up because the plunger carbons up or the iron/steel parts rust together.
Every single one of the old shop air compressors had a brass spring in the overpressure valves, couple hundred degree discharge air temp, still working 70 or 80 years later.
Some pressure canners from the turn of the century into the 70s had brass springs in the overpressure valves and still work fine.
I check my canners (some dating back to the turn of the century) every year before using them and the spring pressure hasn't been effected by the years of use or the heat involved, over 250*F. for 100 years!
People wonder why I make 'Widgets' in my shop for 'Obsolete' equipment, it works another 100+ years when the design is good and the parts are QUALITY!
Let's see 'China' do that!