You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Arbor set screw size?
- Thread starter blfuller
- Start date
bedbugbilly
New member
Just curious . . . why?
If your talking about your cylinder arbor . . . is this not supported on one end in the recoil shield and on the other end by the barrel? Just curious as to why you feel it needs to be done?
If your talking about your cylinder arbor . . . is this not supported on one end in the recoil shield and on the other end by the barrel? Just curious as to why you feel it needs to be done?
45 Dragoon
New member
I assume you will be using it as a front bearing surface for the wedge ( so you will have an adjustable wedge key way)? I use a 1/4 inch 28 thread set screw for Walkers /Dragoons.
45 Dragoon
New member
As a side note:
I have heard of folks loosing the end of the arbor after doing this type of thing. The reason is because of the arbor being too short (as Mr. Hawg mentioned). You see, this is something you would do to enhance a short arbor fix.
If there is room at the end of the arbor hole for the arbor to stretch, it will. Even to the point of breaking. If the short arbor has been taken care of ( now dead ends into the end of the hole), the arbor has nowhere to stretch to, allowing this adjustability for the wedge.
I post often about this very set up but it is in conjunction with the arbor fix. Once the set up is done, the vibration travels through the revolver as a whole. If a space were still available in the arbor hole, it would interrupt the transfer and that's when bad things happen with open tops.
I have heard of folks loosing the end of the arbor after doing this type of thing. The reason is because of the arbor being too short (as Mr. Hawg mentioned). You see, this is something you would do to enhance a short arbor fix.
If there is room at the end of the arbor hole for the arbor to stretch, it will. Even to the point of breaking. If the short arbor has been taken care of ( now dead ends into the end of the hole), the arbor has nowhere to stretch to, allowing this adjustability for the wedge.
I post often about this very set up but it is in conjunction with the arbor fix. Once the set up is done, the vibration travels through the revolver as a whole. If a space were still available in the arbor hole, it would interrupt the transfer and that's when bad things happen with open tops.
Just curious . . . why?
If your talking about your cylinder arbor . . . is this not supported on one end in the recoil shield and on the other end by the barrel? Just curious as to why you feel it needs to be done?
To correct the short arbor as Hawg mentions.
45 Dragoon
New member
It would be best to shim it with metal shims. Im not sure a set screw is the best way to go.. Are you closing the gap? It may require removing some material from the barrel/frame area ( to keep it square).
Last edited:
It would be best to shim it with metal shims. Im not sure a set screw is the best way to go.. Are you closing the gap? It may require removing some material from the barrel/frame area ( to keep it square).
Care to elaborate on shim placement?
45 Dragoon
New member
I use steel washers of appropriate size and thickness. I use steel to fill in the arbor hole and use set screws in the arbor to keep the wedge keyway the correct size. It would be easier to explain on the phone. I will pm you my number and you can call if you like.
Mike (the goon)
goonsgunworks.com
Mike (the goon)
goonsgunworks.com
Last edited: