AR15 Sight Question

J

Jack Carson

New member
Does anyone else have a problem with point of aim shifting when they switch from large aperture to small? My group size does not change noticeably but I am hitting about 2 1/2" low with the large aperture. Small aperture is dead on the money. I'm using the same cheek weld, etc. on either aperture.
 
the small aperture is for long range. 200yds. and out, I believe.
The large aperture is for closer in.

They are set at different elevations relative to each other, so you get a different point of impact when using both apertures at the same range.
 
I've experienced it with my AR15, the combat sight aperature must be extremely screwed up on my rifle or I'm sighting very poorly.



I can print groups just fine with the longer range aperature and hit where I'd expect the rounds to be for say 100 yards where the point of impact is just about 2 inches higher than my point of aim, say a 200-300 yard zero printing high on paper at 100 yards.



When I flip up the combat aperature to shoot at the same target at the same distance, while trying my best to get proper sight picture, my groups print so damned low it isn't even funny. How much you ask? OH ABOUT A FOOT!


I learned about my combat aperature's screw up while shooting an action rifle match, on all the long range steel I was hitting just fine using the longer range smaller aperature. When flipping over to the short range aperature during the short range torso silouettes I found that I needed to aim for above the "neck" to make a hit in the chest region. Nothing like not being prepared and getting well into the middle of a match before finding out that your sights are seriously off.


I've pretty much taken to only using the precision sight now because I know where it's hitting, last time I was at the range I played around with the combat aperature and found that I needed several clicks of elevation(around more than 6 clicksif I remember correct) to bring it up to where the precision aperature was hitting at it's set zero.



I'm gonna get a new front sight here soon that has a wire reticle as well as a secondary bead sight, I'm gonna make the sights work through a better front sight rather than just replace the rear aperatures. Should be able to gain much more precision as well as benefit additional zeroing flexibility through this new front sight.
 
Yes, that's true otherwise there wouldn't be a point of impact shift corresponding between the two aperatures, there is supposed to be a bit of a shift ofcourse so that one can quickly change between 2 zeros without touching the elvation wheel and also have available two fields of view, but having a point of impact change of 10-12 inches worth like in my case between the two aperatures? Doubt that one was intentional.

Going by what my combat aperature is doing, if I was to zero the short range aperature for 100 yards my front sight blade would likely just about unscrew from the housing(it's up there a bit already) not only that but when I flipped over to the longer range aperature, coming from a battle sight zero with the combat aperature, the zero for the precision aperature would be about 400 yards if not 500 yards(the precision aperature would then be 10-12 inches high at 100 yards and that is an awful lot, trajectory should make that a 400-500 yard zero) and would negate using the elevation wheel at all to hit at ranges of 400-500 yards.

Something is screwy with it I'm pretty sure, after reading the methods for battle sight zeroing and monkeying around with both aperatures and trying to keep track of the zeros between the two it doesn't track with everything I've read about how the sights were intended to work.
 
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