AR lowers

T

the rifleer

New member
So forgive me if this is a stupid question, but how important is it to get a good quality lower for an AR? I can spend $120 for a stripped "mil spec" ar lower, or I could spend over $200 on a top of the line lower. It seems to me the upper is the part that determines the reliability and accuracy of the weapon system, but that is why I'm posting this. I'm just curious what the difference is in lower receivers.
 
Almost all quality forged aluminum lowers are equal. Their internal parts are not. So if your buying stripped lowers just choose the roll mark you like best.
 
I personally wouldn't spend over $100 on an AR lower. They can be readily found for $60-90 (depending on rollmark) from quality makers. The only thing you're looking for out of a lower is for it to have been forged properly and the holes in the right location and the right size. There's VERY few bad lowers out there.

The $300 lowers are usually the machined billet ones, but they lend nothing to the rifle that a regular forged lower can't do. They look cool and show the world you spent more, but honestly, there's no functional reason to buy them.

You can spend more, but you won't get more.
 
You also need to make sure that your magazine of choice will fit and drop free in the lower you want.

Sometimes they can be too tight for PMags and other plastic mags.
 
I went with the Palmetto lowers from the Thanksgiving sale for $49. They are GTG and wouldn't hesitate to buy more at the current $79.
 
I went with the Palmetto lowers from the Thanksgiving sale for $49.
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Wish they still had this sale. Due to shipping and FFL fees, I decided to buy from LGS instead. Yes it costs more, but I like to support my local business.

Oh, btw, I went with a M&P 15 lower receiver.
 
Most lowers today are gtg, they are forged 7075 and finished to spec. AP, PSA, SAA all the same, different roll mark.

You can spend additional money for "enhanced" lowers.

Large beveling on the mag well. This well assist in mag changes, it's an edge in 3-gun.

Knurling on the front of the lower for assist in using the "mag well grip".

A few lowers use a screw to replace the bolt catch roll pin. Some come with a set screw of the take down pin spring/pin so it doesn't fly out when you remove the RE. This is a good diy mod.

The AXTS has a modified mag release that activates the bolt catch, this is much faster for "clearing drills".

I was at some AR on-line store the other day and they had RRA stripped lowers for $199. I could not figure that one out. I guess that roll mark is worth $$$.
 
I was at some AR on-line store the other day and they had RRA stripped lowers for $199. I could not figure that one out. I guess that roll mark is worth $$$.
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Proud of those, aren't they? :eek:

I've noticed that the big name maker lowers tend to go for more than the lesser known ones. I don't know if that's because of what the maker sells them for or what, but even then $200 for a RRA lower is $50 more than I've seen elsewhere and even that is $50 more than needs to be spent. I suppose if you use a RRA lower, LPK, stock kit, and upper, you can avoid the whole Frankenrifle stigma, but there's just not much point to doing that.
 
There's a stigma about frankenrifles in the AR world?

I've got nothing but frankenrifles and I am quite happy with them. Unless you're buying a fully assembled Colt, BCM etc. or better yet a fully built Knights Armaments I figure eventually you'd end up with a frankenrifle as you decide to upgrade parts unless you stick with only parts from the name brand of your rifle.
 
Both lowers made by Aero Precision out of Washington State....
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Actually, the majority of the newer PSA lowers come from LW Schnieder.

I own one of each (Aero Precision & LW Schnieder versions) and the quality of both is excellent.
 
There's a stigma about frankenrifles in the AR world?
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Only when you're trying to resell the thing, which was what I was trying to get across (poorly, might I add :D).

If you plan to keep and shoot it, there's no shame in a Frankenrifle (heck, I don't own one that isn't), and they can be very high quality. But when you mix and match parts from different vendors, you just can never get the sum of its parts out of it on the back end.
 
So forgive me if this is a stupid question, but how important is it to get a good quality lower for an AR? I can spend $120 for a stripped "mil spec" ar lower, or I could spend over $200 on a top of the line lower. It seems to me the upper is the part that determines the reliability and accuracy of the weapon system, but that is why I'm posting this. I'm just curious what the difference is in lower receivers.
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How about a complete lower for less than $100. Like you said, the upper is the part that determines the reliability and accuracy of the weapon system so the lower shouldn't matter that much. It is just something to hold the upper & the stock.
http://newfrontierarmory.com/catalo...=product_info&cPath=245_285&products_id=34089
 
As long as the holes for the pins are in the right place and your mags feed OK through the magwell any lower is fine. I've built rifles on Double Star, Rock River Arms, Stag, and DPMS lowers and they are all good.

I would buy the cheapest reputable brand lower and put more money into the upper or optics/sights.
 
Yes, the Aero Precision manufactured lowers for various companies are very well made. My PSA lower for $49 on sale work excellent, drop Magpul mags reliably. My gunsmith friend who put it together commented the manufacturing to be well made and better than some brand names costing a lot more.
 
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