Anyone using tite group in 40 with lead?

C

Chainsaw.

New member
So I got tired of buying bullets for my Wife’s 40, bought a mold and sizer. Went to lol up a load and found none of my books have tite group in their pages as a recommendation for lead bullets in 40. Any one using this combo? I can’t see any reason NOT to, tite works fine with lead in my experience, works fine in 40... maybe the accuracy isn’t there...?:confused:
 
None of the calibers I have loaded it with using lead worked out well. I got lead build up in the barrels where other powders did not have that problem. All the way from 9mm to .41 Magnum. It worked great with plated, or jacketed though.
 
I thought I would go my whole life without any trauma from my reloads(close to a million by now,rifle,shotgun and pistol). Titegroup and lead bullets in the 40 proved me wrong. Long story short-use another powder
 
Titegroup burns HOT, and smokes like black powder with lead bullets. Works OK with plated and jacketed, acceptable with Polycoat.
 
Looked in my flam cabinet, I have about 1/2 a pound of HS6, I’ll give it a whirl.

Bill you bring up a point that I failed to mention, I will be powder coating these rounds, just like all my lead.
 
"...any reason NOT to..." Not if you have cast bullet data. None on Hodgdon's site. Not at home to look in my manuals(that probably don't have the .40 anyway).
 
I've done a couple 1000 rnds of cast lead with titegroup in my glock 35 - 3.8 gr is my charge on that - ditto from above - it does lead in a factory glock barrel and is a bit more smoky which you'd notice on an indoor range - not so much outdoor...... It's not nearly as smokey as bullseye powder.

I scour the leading out by firing 2 of my custom JHP's made from 9mm casings and the ejector rim on the casings remove the leading right out without issue.

I'm going to go into powder coating the cast rounds this winter to hopefully fully eliminate the leading issue as there are no .40 molds with gas check rims in my collection as yet.

I don't have a hardness gauge - so don't ask me the alloy hardness. I'll cast just about any piece of lead I can get my hands on - so no telling what the true alloy is anyway.
 
With no mention of bullet weight and COL, I would not hazard a guess at a powder charge at all.

Grey Lion said:
I scour the leading out by firing 2 of my custom JHP's made from 9mm casings and the ejector rim on the casings remove the leading right out without issue.
Click to expand...

After your bore looks shiny clean, run a clean bore brush in and out once. Look again. See dull patches where the shine disappears? That's lead scratched back up by the brush. Firing jacketed bullets to clean or "scour" a bore actually burnishes lead into the surface and spreads it out. Forcing it to flow under firing pressure like that is like shooting into a bore caked with grease. It raises pressure. This is why manufacturers recommend against this practice and report that damage can and has resulted. I know the idea has been around for decades because I did it myself forty years ago. But when the bore brush told me what was actually happening, I stopped. The manufacturers see the bulged barrels and hear about the blown out cases and the magazine and grip panel damage that sometimes result. It's your risk to take if you choose to, but I don't want others to read about this old method that comes from back before pressure measuring was commonly done and think it's some kind of easy cure for lead with no possible penalty.

I've been using Sharpshoot R's NO-LEAD successfully for a while, but Lewis Lead Removers or Chore Boy strands on an undersized bore brush have all been used successfully for a long time.
 
Uncle Nick - if I was using a FMJ or regular JHP I would entirely agree with you - that's what'd happen -

But I'm using one of these swaged JHP's made from a 9mm annealed case and a core - and that ejector/head on the case does an AMAZING job removing any leading - doesn't smear it - strips it right out as if that was it's mission in life :-)
 

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