anyone else problems with remington quality?

D

datchew

Inactive
Hi all.
new here.

Just bought a new remington 870 express super mag with combo fully rifled barrel.
Cleaned all the cosmoline off it with hoppes, lubed it up, and wiped it down with G96 silicone cloth (my favorite).
Took it out over the weekend and got a little light rain on it.
Wiped it dry after about an hour out in the rain and put it in the closet nice and dry.

Anyway, The next morning, it had rust already forming on it!!!! A large spot near the end of the straight tube barrel, and some down on the side, and also some on the rifled barrel and on the sights.

Most of it wiped off with some solvent, but still, what a joke!!!!!

I've heard all about how wonderful the rem 870's are and how reliable etc, so I bought one. But the gun just felt like tin can compared to my old stevens savage which is almost 20 years old.

Also, I have to say, with today's metallurgical technology and all the smoke remington blows up your rear end about how good their matte black protective finish is, it's pretty pathetic to have rust on it after 1 day no matter WHAT I did to it.

Called Remington, and they basically said rust isn't covered under warranty and you have to oil your guns. Oil them huh? I've been oiling and silicone clothing guns since the mid 70's and none of them (even after rain, mud and deer blood) have rust on them.

So what gives???? Is Remington just too far in bed with Wal-Mart to build a quality product anymore????
:mad:
 
Yeah maybe it's hit or miss. I get some reddish coloring under the vent rib of my 870 barrel just from storge, but when I did get it real wet and muddy it didn't rust after sitting for a day :confused: I just saturate the exterior with the spray can of remoil before putting it away.

I just get in the mindset of the Express being a workhorse or a yard tool. I treat it rough and don't sweat superficial rust. One day I will own a pretty shotgun and hang on to the 870 for the dirty work in the rice fields, marsh, etc.

I agree it does burn you up when you drop 200 on a new gun and it has rust. Unfortunately $200 is peanuts in the gun world.

Edit: you got the supermag with rifled barrel...that's more like $400?...for that money I would call and ask for a manager in customer service and be polite but uncompromising.
 
870's cost much more than $200 with one bbl, unless you bought one at a special sale somewhere......or maybe a used one.
 
Use my 870 Express for everything, so the gun is out in all weather, when i first got it i only had to look at it wrong and rust appeared.

Started using Ballistol oil on all the exterior even the timber. applied lots of coats over a 2-3 month period it. Never had a problem since :) :)
 
The trick seems to be following the instructions from Remington. Disassemble, spray with oil, let sit. After 30 minutes,wipe down, reassemble and go shoot it.

New bluing oft has oxidation issues. After all, it's controlled rusting. Sometimes with the Express finish, there's still some salts left un-neutralized. The oil fixes the salts and stops further bluing.

FYI, new bluing is called Green bluing.
 
rusting 870

Just buy some KROIL it penetrates the metal and is used in paper mills around corrosive chemicals with great results. Jeeze guys my old 870's sit it my store room for years with only a wipe down every year or so and they don't rust at all. I don't DUCK hunt anymore, but KROIL WORKS.:D ;) :)



OH and Ballistol is a GERMAN military oil ,I believe ,and it will do ok also. KROIL IS BETTER IMHO.
 
Thanks much for the inputs fellas.
Perhaps i'm just not familiar with this type of finish.
It's not a blued gun. It has what looks like some kind of satin black paint coating on it. It's not parkerized, but it's similar.

I'm used to blued guns. you wipe them down with oil once or twice and then use a silicone cloth for the rest of the life of the gun and they just get better looking with age. Yes, the owner's manual said to give it a coat of oil and I did just that. I didn't leave it on to soak in for much more than a few minutes though.

The gun with the extra barrel was almost 500 with taxes included, so you can understand why I would be upset at the first sign of rust.

So you think perhaps I should just saturate the thing with oil and let it soak for awhile? I'm not used to doing that but I am willing to give it a try. Please advise.
 
the Express models ARE blued guns, it's just that the metal surfaces are bead blasted before being blued to give it that dull matte finish. I have never had a problem w/ my lefty 870 rusting, I just use hoppes lubricating oil and a hoppes silicone cloth.
 
Take a look at these pics:

This is blueing?????? It's flat black, even under bright light.
Not that I don't believe you, it's just that it looks and feels more like paint.
blueing bonds itself into the metal. I'm trying to picture some of my nice old blued guns with a rough surface, but just can't get the picture in my head to come to this. This seems to be a coating.

gun2.jpg


gun1.jpg






So shall I soak it?
Any oil suggestions other than remoil and KROIL?
I use milspec on the lubricated parts of my other guns, but have never had to oil a finish. Only used silicone cloths.
 
As above it IS bluing, applied over a bead blasted finish.
It does resemble a coating, and some people thought it was a powder coated finish.

The Express is Remington's "budget gun" designed to compete price-wise with the cheaper to make Winchester and Mossberg guns.

One way Remington lowered the price was to apply bluing on a bead blasted finish to eliminate hand polishing.

The best treatment for your gun is to strip the gun per the owner's manual, including the magazine assembly.

Spray the gun dripping wet with CLP Breakfree, inside and out, and allow it to set for 20 minutes.
This will dissolve any factory lube and will "kill" any further oxidizing of the bluing.

Wipe most of the CLP off and reassemble the gun.
The CLP will "soak" into the rough surface and will build up a Teflon coating that will prevent rust.
I prefer CLP Breakfree for this since it's one of the very best rust preventing lubes ever made, and does an excellent job of protecting guns.

Every time you handle or use the gun, just use a clean patch to apply a thin coat of more CLP to refresh the protection.
 
Ron, check out both Gander Mountain and Academy Sporting Goods, both have had the 870 Express for $196-197 since about September...off season it goes to around $239.
 
It isn't a quality issue at all, it is maintenence and in spite of your careful cleaning you have rust. Bead blasted surfaces WILL rust faster than high gloss surfaces. I personally would not ever use a silicone cloth on my guns other than maybe the wood. I use Rem Oil or Break Free. period. The silicone cloths and wipes do not impart any great amount of rust preventative on the surfaces. A good quality "Gun" oil works best. I don't use WD-40 either. It evaporates and in time leaves a gummy slude on parts.
 
Don't forget, after you slather whatever protective petroleum product on your gun to protect it, the area under the rib between the supports. Run a patch soaked in whatever under there.
 
Ron, check out both Gander Mountain and Academy Sporting Goods, both have had the 870 Express for $196-197 since about September...off season it goes to around $239


I would have to drive 110 miles to Oklahoma City.:barf: :barf: :eek: :mad:
 
Yeah Ron being in the city, I have to drive 110 miles to get to a place where I can shoot outdoors, but we can buy the guns cheap. I guess you can't have it all :(
 
well, i bought a can of break-free and layed it on very thick (it's dripping with it) and am going to let it soak overnight.
I'll wipe it down when i'm done and go test it in the rain again and see what happens.

Despite what someone said about it not being a quality issue, but a maintenence issue, I still think that in the year 2005 any gun, ANY GUN that's worth buying, especially for the price of this one, should be able to stand up to the elements right out of the box.

I read the owner's manual cover to cover. I talks about "how to clean" but says nothing about oiling and soaking when they're new out of the box.
Would you say the same thing if your new car rusted the day after you bought it?

I only say this because if this truly is a blued finish, it should be more resistant to simple water than this. There's a tiny spot where the barrel goes into the receiver where the finish flaked off. Bluing doesn't do that.

If you'd like i can post pictures of a ruger model 77 rsi 30-06 that has had deer blood, snow, mud, etc on it and it's prettier than a brand new off the shelf Wingmaster remington. It's blued.
For 20 years i've cleaned the bore with hoppes and wiped down the surface with G96 cloths. If you've never used the G96's and think of them as a normal silicone cloth, well, you're just not getting the picture. they're not a dry rag.

We'll see what happens after it soaks awhile.
 
My Remmy 1100 Competition Master acts more like parkerizing than bluing, but who knows..... The barrel finish has worn where the barrel clamp rides and I find the bluing on my older guns as more resistant to scuffing and rust (including an older 1100).
 
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