Anybody ever used a Lee hand press?

G

glockopop

New member
Like this one:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=624416

I don't have space for a reloading bench, and I don't use more than 100 rounds of any one caliber in a week so this seems like a good piece of equipment for me. I've never reloaded before, don't know anything about it really, but I want to save $. I now shoot 9mm and .40 and will be getting a .45ACP in about 2 weeks. Is this kit really everything I need to get started but dies, bullets, cases, primers, and powder? What dies should I get? Do I need things like a scale or a case tumbler? Are there any other recommendations for a reloading newbie? Nobody at my local gun and sports superstore knows anything about reloading, and all the guys I shoot IPSC with are telling me to get a Dillon 550 which I can neither afford nor store, so any advice I can get here would be GREATLY appreciated.
 
I am in the same situation. I am looking at the Lee Anniversary kit, only need dies, bullets, primers and powder. I have not considered the hand press because too many folks say it does most handgun and 223 REM but it is very hard to do any longer cases.
Good luck in your search.
 
I use the Lee hand press exclusively for my handloading. Resizing cases, even "bottlenecked" rifle cases, is no problem. It does not require any excessive effort, so I wouldn't worry about this. Straight-wall pistol cases should be effortless (all I reload are rifle cases, so I cannot say, with certainty). I have had no problems with the hand press. I also like the portability of it. All of my handloading supplies and equipment fit into a plasic box, about the size of a large tackle box. All I can say, in conclusion, is that the hand press is fine for all of my handloading efforts, including reforming bottle-necked rifle cases from one size to another (.30/06 to 8mm Mauser, as it happens). So, if you cannot (or don't want to) set up a stationary press.....the Lee hand press should be just fine. I certainly would recommend it.
 
I use a Lee hand press at times for small caliber stuff- .38, .357, 9mm, .223 because its handy. I have a standard reloading press (RCBS) that i use mostly and almost exclusively for sizing. I generally size, then clean, than prime, and then wait until I'm ready to load so the Lee usually does the bullet seat and crimp. For working up loads, and even some lots of 1-200 it works well. Mine had one of the E-clips break which I had replacements for, but other than that- no problems. I wouldn't recommend it for large caliber or tens of thousands of rounds- it probably would show some durability problems
 
I've got one of those that I use all the time -- I've got the same problem as you, I don't have room for a dedicated reloading bench. Anyway, my Lee Handpress works just fine (albeit slow, like any other single stage press), I use it for reloading 9mm, .38 Spl and .357 Mag. You'll need a set of dies for each caliber you shoot -- I've got 2 sets, both Lee, both work just fine. The 1st set is their 3 die set for .38 Spl/.357 Mag, the other is the 4 die set (with their factory taper crimp die) for 9mm. Both die kits come with their respective shell holders.

In addition to the bullets, powder & primers, you'll need a few other odds & ends to get started:

1> While it is true that the Lee die kits come with a powder dipper, I find their usefulness to be somewhat limited. I'd advise getting a powder scale (Lee's cheapo one is the one I got, works ok). You might want to get a trickler as well (I got a RCBS).

2> You might also want to get yourself a powder measure, since reloading handgun rounds is something of a mass production thing and weighing each individual charge is SLOOOOW. I got the low end Lee one, it works (nice, consistent charges) but leaks a little powder as you use it -- irritating but not game breaking. I clamp mine to a folding wooden TV tray using a small C Clamp, the tray serves as my "reloading bench".

3> You might want to get a case holder block or 2, just for convenience. Mine are the Hornady ones.

4> You might want to get a primer pocket cleaner. The cheapo Lee one that I've got works fine.

5> You'll need a set of calipers, either digital or analog. I've got a Frankford Arsenal digital one, works great.

6> The Lee kit comes with their Ram Prime, which works OK but isn't really fast. I'm still using it, but I may upgrade to a stand alone priming tool sometime in the future.

7> Last but not least, you need to get a good reloading manual or 2. This is a MUST.

It really isn't necessary to tumble your brass, unless you just HAVE to have brass that looks all new-like. I don't bother. The untumbled brass still shoots just fine.

I find that I can fit my whole setup (except for the supplies, manuals and the TV tray) in the box that the Lee Handloader came in -- nice and convenient.

Oh -- one little thing I found out about the de-capping process when using the Lee Handpress: Unlike the old RockChucker that I learned on, the spent primers don't just fall out of the bottom of the press, they stay contained inside of the press. There is not quite enough room for about 50 spent small pistol primers in there, and if you forget to empty it, it WILL jam on you. So, get in the habit of emptying it about every 25 decaps.
 
I haven't seen one of the Lee hand presses in years. They work well for small batches of reloading, if that is all you can do, but they are SLOW and will pinch your fingers if you aren't careful. If you feel a need to move on up, take a look at the Lee Pro1000 progressive press. I can mount mine on the bench when I want to reload, then take it off and store it. It is lightweight and turns out great ammo. They cost about $150 with dies.
 
All well and fine if you have a bench. I lived in my RV full time for a couple of years and the Hand Press worked out great. I used it all the way up to 45/70.

Dean
 
Glockopop,
In the past I have bolted a press to a 2x8 then used C-clamps and clamped the board to a desk or kitchen table. You can do some reloading then put everything away till next time. Make sure whatever you clamp to is strong enough and place rags to protect what needs it.
 
Also, which Lee dies should I get? I was looking at the carbide speed die because it says you don't have to change dies between operations on a single stage press. It's also the cheapest.;) It says you don't need case lube with it. If that's true, I may just get the press alone without the kit because I plan to use a Lee Auto-Prime anyway and the plastic funnel isn't worth the extra 10 bucks.
 
I probably have space for a bench, but I prefer to handload from my easy chair for as many of the steps as possible. I use the kitchen table for the rest. I can't clamp a press to it since it would flex the pedestal base too much. My whole setup

I started with a Lee hand press, and it works well. Mine has a slightly misaligned ram relative to the die, but not so much that the shellholder can't take up the slop. I eventually got a Huntington Compac hand press that I like much better, but it is around $90. Even with it, I still use the Lee hand press for depriming, using a universal depriming die, since it captures all the spent primer debris.

I would heartily recommend the Lee hand press. I would also recommend the following other equipment choices:

Huntington Compac Hand Press: double handles and "W" linkage has more power in a smaller package than the Lee hand press. Double guide rods ensure perfect alignment. I mounted a ~4" circular hardwood base to mine so it can stand up on its own (something the Lee cannot do) when I need both hands for something else.

Lee autoprime (and shellholders for it, different from ones for press) or RCBS universal hand primer (newer model with square tray, no shellholders needed): either one means you don't handle individual primers with your fingers!

Lee case trimmer/gauge system: falling-off-a-log simple to use, very inexpensive, and effective.

Lee Perfect Powder measure: at least to start with; works great with larger-grained rifle powders, and with trail boss powder. The price is certainly right.

Hornady dies, particularly their seating dies: they have sliding alignment sleeves to align the bullet before it enters the case. Optional micrometer adjustment screw, and easy disassembly for cleaning without affecting the settings. More $ than Lee, but less than RCBS, Forster, and Redding.

Hornady lock rings, no matter which dies you use. Split-ring clamping style, plus wrench flats (nobody else has that combination)

Frankford Arsenal Digital Calipers: price is right, and they work great.

Andy
 
I just keep thinking of questions. What size primers should I be using for .45ACP, .40 S&W, and 9x19? And what about powder? I'll want to make loads that are just barely inside of IPSC Major Power Factor.
 
use a lee handpress has worked fine for many thousands of rounds most of it CCI

45acp large pistol
40sw small pistol
9mm small pistol making major? small rifle
 
I've got a Lee hand press, and it works well for me reloading .38Spl/.357Mag rounds. Yes, it's slower than a bench press, but if you're careful and methodical about using it with a reloading block, it's certainly OK. I did spring for the Lee carbide dies and some Hornady locking rings (I don't like the Lee rings).

I have a reloading bench (Well, OK, it's an old kitchen table in the basement), but I just like sitting here on my duff in the family room for doing my reloads.

The Lee hand press is fairly inexpensive and uses standard 7/8"x14 dies. That's a great place to start, and it might just be enough for you.
 
Have one and have used it for handgun loads (44mag, 454, 45LC) and rifle from 416 Rigby, 300 Win mag, 270, 22 hornet, etc

Also have 2 single stage presses, a 550 and 3 shotgun presses. Hand press is very handy doing part in garage and part sitting in front of telly. Prefer priming with RCBS hand primer (loose primers and one for strips)
 
Any press is better than no press. I still have the old Lee loaders I learned on lo these many years ago. As I believe someone mentioned, do get a reloading manual that gives you accurate data. Again, the Lee could be the best choice. You'll want to work up to those power loads incrementally, looking for signs of overpressure.
One thing to keep in mind if loading on the hot side: Powder manufacturers set a minimum standard among themselves some years ago. IE. that powder may vary by as much as 16% in density from lot to lot. This is not to say that ALL powder will vary this much. Winchester at one time claimed a variance of only 2.5%. It is something to be aware of as your start pressure may vary considerably from one can of the same powder to the next. If you are loading with dippers, as I believe the Lee hand press kit contains, you have no means of determining powder density. A 2.5% variance means that you could but a can of 748, say, that is that % low in density. The next can could be denser by that amount for a difference of 5% making your load hotter than you think it is. Richard Lee says that he has worked up the general load data in his book "Modern Reloading" with an eye to this problem, but it is still a good idea to work up your pressures slowly.
If you have a scale that can weigh in grams as opposed to grains, and a Lee dipper that is calibrated in cubic centimeters, you can measure the density of your powder, stick a label on the can and have that info to with which compare the next can. D = W/V Divide the weight by the volume and you will have the density of your powder in relation to the standard which is water at room temperature.
Measuring density of powder is a much neglected necessary step for continuing reload accuracy and one that is a source of much puzzlement over load variance amongst people who do not do it.
 
I posted this to another forum a while back:

Last year a job assignment had me away from home for 7 months. I brought some guns with me. I found out about a local bullseye league, so I joined and quickly found out I'd need to load 60 rounds of .45 acp to low target levels. All of my reloading stuff was 750 miles away. I didn't want to rebuy a bunch of dillon presses, etc.

So, I just bought a nice o-frame press off ebay, along with a powder measure. I bolted both to some scrap lumber and was able to clamp down to a friend's workbench.

A couple of things:

The Lee Speed dies are cheap and work GREAT. The downside is that they won't work in a progressive press, if you decide to get one later. However, they're cheap and once adjusted you don't have to adjust them again, unlike regular dies.

Get a powder measure. The Lee dippers are NOT very repeatable, in my experience. You will get wildly variable ammo. Plus, dipping powder takes forever. The Lee Perfect Powder measure is great and only $20.

I have a Lee hand press and have used it a fair amount. While good for what it does, it just doesn't have the leverage for sustained reloading. (A good trick is to use it like a thighmaster for full length sizing) A Lee Challenger press, while not nearly as good as a Classic Cast press, will handle all of your reloading needs. It's also lightweight, in a good sense.

Get carbide dies for pistol use. Don't even think about steel dies. The pain in the rear factor of lubing pistol cases will quickly make you wish you spent the extra couple of bucks for a carbide set. The Lee Speed Dies are all carbide.

You'll need a scale. Any of those on the market will do.

All in all, you should be able to get a good reloading setup for about $80, if you shop around on the internet.

Good luck. Reloading is addictive. I find I don't save any money at all in reloading. I just shoot 4 times as much!
 
I received my new Lee hand press today. I also received the Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit. It’s pretty hot here so when it cools down a little I’ll now be able to load at the range. I plan on using the press to seat bullets only and the powder dippers will get my charge close to where I can trickle to the exact weight. Looks like this press should work well for developing loads at the range.
 
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