Ah--I assume that is a straight-fence type set-up. Specific rpms depending on the type of wood, grain, and how to position the bit for optimal cutting, feed-rate, step-over, chip-load and plunge rate etc are all things relatively accessible to learn through google and youtube. Just like in the firearms world--the less runout of the bit--the better.Thanks stagpanther. I would, but I have to learn what I'm doing first.
LOL--that's right--it's called being pedantic (I just learned that on another thread) and I'm guilty as charged, I guess. Most of the stuff I learn is by doing it the wrong way first. I've got about 5K sunk into my CNC router so far--and it's not even an especially good one. And once again I'm learning things the hard way.stagpanther getting all fancy on us and thinking that thinking is the answer.
Gary, previous replies, are listing some "fine" options. Have you given any consideration to reworking an old siler-ware case? The last one I did, was for a Colt Walker and the case was made or 1/4 sawed Oak. I got the bow/case at Goodwill, for $4.00. I made partitions and relined with red velvet. It too me longer to find a Walker flask that the case. I've done a total of three and wish I had time to do more. ....Anybody build gunboxes/cases
Gary, misunderstood your post as I thought you were refereeing to pistol cases. Also, the velvet I used came from the remodeled gun-safe, I stripped the material from some shelving and partitions. Some is still in use with no ill effects. ........ Then;Pahoo - I'm thinking of a rifle length project. I need to get the tablesaw (motor) working and make a sled to cut box joints. I'm curious about the individual wood dividers to keep everything from rattling together. Velvet looks like but wouldn't that attract moisture and promote rust?