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Any tricks to accurizing a wood stock ruger hawkeye?
- Thread starter dvdcrr
- Start date
^^
I looked through that link.
Personally, I don't think that bedding an action by just filling in areas where there isn't contact is the correct method.
This results in areas of very thin epoxy (which is likely to crack out over time), or none at all where he has firm contact of wood/metal.
I believe wood needs to be removed in all areas to get as even a layer of epoxy as possible throughout, not just the "voids". The divots are fine and will help in those thin areas, but best to remove some wood instead. If it's applied to minimum recommended thickness, you'll get a sufficient chemical bond to the wood. When I bed polymer stocks, drilling out divots and roughing the surface is required because you won't get the same chemical bond.
I looked through that link.
Personally, I don't think that bedding an action by just filling in areas where there isn't contact is the correct method.
This results in areas of very thin epoxy (which is likely to crack out over time), or none at all where he has firm contact of wood/metal.
I believe wood needs to be removed in all areas to get as even a layer of epoxy as possible throughout, not just the "voids". The divots are fine and will help in those thin areas, but best to remove some wood instead. If it's applied to minimum recommended thickness, you'll get a sufficient chemical bond to the wood. When I bed polymer stocks, drilling out divots and roughing the surface is required because you won't get the same chemical bond.
I agree with tobn, I would take a pass on that.
You can verify the screw tension and try to play around some with that. Also if your parallax is off and your head position not consistant that can string out the shots a bit. Obviously wind, but that is common sense.
I would float the barrel. If your first time, I know the feeling. Take a socket or dowel and wrap it in 220 grit and just get it done. It is not hogging, it is very controlled and leaves a nice smooth uniform channel. Then seal it off with varnish. This is not kawkeye specific but horizontal stringing is often uneven stock pressure. After floating and test shooting you can experiment with a little (moderate) shim pressure under the barrel at some mid point(s) on the fore arm.
You can verify the screw tension and try to play around some with that. Also if your parallax is off and your head position not consistant that can string out the shots a bit. Obviously wind, but that is common sense.
I would float the barrel. If your first time, I know the feeling. Take a socket or dowel and wrap it in 220 grit and just get it done. It is not hogging, it is very controlled and leaves a nice smooth uniform channel. Then seal it off with varnish. This is not kawkeye specific but horizontal stringing is often uneven stock pressure. After floating and test shooting you can experiment with a little (moderate) shim pressure under the barrel at some mid point(s) on the fore arm.